Aurora semi inground pool

[lattedah]

HI - we will be having a 30 ft - 54" Aurora pool installed 27" semi inground.
We were planning on a DIY install but my husband injured his hand in a chainsaw accident and wound recovery will take several weeks. It has not been easy trying to find someone to install the pool but was able to find 2 possible. One is a pool company 50 miles away, their estimate is $6,000 to excavate, assembly and PVC plumping. We would have to provide the sand and have the dirt hauled away. They did not provide a time schedule for the installation and have been difficult to get in touch with and their reply time has been a day later than promised. The second is a local property service company that handles land clearing, excavation, etc. He quoted $2750 to $3,000 to excavate, provide sand and haul dirt away. He is also trying to find someone to assembly the pool and an electrician to install an outlet for the pool. He has shown a lot of interest in the project, is prompt with replies and stated he would try to meet or come in under what the pool company estimate is. It would probably be more peace of mind to have the pool company install the pool because of their experience but I prefer the business attitude of the local company more. I also think the pool company's estimate is a little high.
I am thinking of seeing what the Pool Company's estimate would be for just the install and let the local company handled the excavation. (update the pool company will not install on someone else's excavation)

That all said, I have a few questions I hope someone here can give advice on.

1) The pool will be placed about 75 feet from the house. We live in the Low Country of SC about 15 miles from the beach. Our sand is referred to as loamy soil. The soil drains extremely well, if the ditch in front of our house fills up after a heavy rain it will drain in less than 30 to 45 minutes. Our property has a slight slope to both sides of the yard but is more pronounced towards the left side of the pool area. Do I need a french drain around the pool ?

2) We will have a Hayword S230T 23" Sand Filter, 1.5 HP, 2 Speed and a CircuPool RJ-60 Plus SWG. Hopefully these will work well for the pool ? If we go with the local company I will be doing the plumbing. Any recommendations for a timer ?

3)This is the area for the pool - excuse my markers lol. This area once had a 24 ft pool and then a fire pit area. I am removing the rocks due to the fire pit and digging out around the perimeter of the pool area looking for an irrigation lines or roots - hoping to avoid any unexpected obstacles that would raise the price of the install. There are grapes vines along the fence and I am finding a lot of the roots 6" to 12" deep. We will be using a gorilla pad but have not planned on having a retaining wall. I am wondering if the vine roots will be a problem in the future ?

4) We plan on setting the pump/filter pad on the back area by the square/rectangle garden flag (middle to right of the picture) and installing an outlet on the exterior wall of the garage. Is there a max distance for the location of the SWG control pad ? Will I need to build some sort of awning or box to protect the timer and control pad from the elements ?

5) If there is a delay in finding an electrician to install a dedicated circuit/new outlet would it be possible to run a heavy duty extension cord to a gfci outlet on the front exterior of the garage ?

I think that is all my questions for now. We previously had a 24 ft pool, replaced with Intex type pools for the last few years and TFP has been invaluable to me with the wealth of knowledge found here. Thanks !



View attachment 404983

 

[Texas Splash]

Let's get right to your questions:
1 - Hard to tell. The photo doesn't really do it justice to describe the drainage. As long as you don't have a pronounced amount of water sitting at the base of the pool, or water table trying to lift it, you should be okay. If in doubt, some landscape grooming, retaining wall, or French Drain is a possibility.

2 - Those should all work. Of course there is the S-244 filter which is slightly bigger and may provide a longer intervals between backwashing's, but you have a solid list.

3 - I was not aware that grape roots were aggressive, so I'm not sure. Maybe others like @kimkats will know.

4 - Maybe @ajw22 can confirm the NEC min distance. I thought it was 6', but we'll see. As for the equipment pad items themselves, a covering is not mandatory as they are designed to be outside. However any protection you elect to do from the weather is always beneficial.

5 - Not ideal, but I'm sure people have done it in a pinch. TFP wouldn't endorse that method (safety), and I wouldn't want to rely on it for an extended period of time, but if you do use a cord as an interim fix be sure it's a cord of adequate gauge.

Good luck!

 

[kimkats]

Hi! Sorry to hear your hubby and the chainsaw did not get along-OUCH!

Roots of any kind the thing to watch for is the root dying off and causing the ground to sink in. If you are leaving the plants up then you should be good. Grape vine do tend to have the bigger part above ground and will shoot off vine from the roots so I understand your worry. If you want to be on the safer side I would cut the main root and dig down to see if you can get the under ground part up. IF you do this you will have to make sure to compact the dirt over and over to make sure it will not sink down. We do suggest to have undisturbed ground under the pool but some times that is not possible. The root path should be small enough to make it work. If you use water to help compact that will be very helpful as well.

 

[ajw22]

2) We will have a Hayword S230T 23" Sand Filter, 1.5 HP, 2 Speed and a CircuPool RJ-60 Plus SWG. Hopefully these will work well for the pool ?

Do you have the equipment in hand? Specifically the 2 speed pump? If you do not have it yet you may not be able to get one due to DOE regulations - Pump DOE Regulations - Further Reading

If you have have the pump then post a pic of the motor data plate as it will help answer question 5.

If we go with the local company I will be doing the plumbing. Any recommendations for a timer ?

Will your 2 speed pump be 120V or 240v?

If 120V get an Intermatic T101 to control power to pump and SWG and a T106 to control high and low speeds. You can put them in a T3000R5 cabinet.

main | 100 A Load Center Only, 8-Breaker Spaces

100 A Load Center Only, 8-Breaker Spaces

www.intermatic.com

If 240V get an Intermatic T10604R

main | Control Panel with T106M & T104M Mechanisms

Control Panel with T106M & T104M Mechanisms

www.intermatic.com

4) We plan on setting the pump/filter pad on the back area by the square/rectangle garden flag (middle to right of the picture) and installing an outlet on the exterior wall of the garage. Is there a max distance for the location of the SWG control pad ?

The Circupool RJ Manual is at - https://circupool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-RJ-PLUS-Manual.pdf

Page 16 says:

Mount the Control Module as close to the pump and filtration system as possible. For safety concerns, do not install the Control Module within 10 feet of the pool edges, and follow all applicable codes. Verify that the Cell and Flow Switch cables can reach the Control Module from the section of pipe selected for plumbing.

Will I need to build some sort of awning or box to protect the timer and control pad from the elements ?

Can't hurt, may help, I don't think it is required in SC.

5) If there is a delay in finding an electrician to install a dedicated circuit/new outlet would it be possible to run a heavy duty extension cord to a gfci outlet on the front exterior of the garage ?

Not recommended and against all electrical codes.

Will it work depends on the details of the pump and the electrical circuit you are plugging into.

 

[lattedah]

Do you have the equipment in hand? Specifically the 2 speed pump? If you do not have it yet you may not be able to get one due to DOE regulations - Pump DOE Regulations - Further Reading

If you have have the pump then post a pic of the motor data plate as it will help answer question 5.



Will your 2 speed pump be 120V or 240v?

If 120V get an Intermatic T101 to control power to pump and SWG and a T106 to control high and low speeds. You can put them in a T3000R5 cabinet.

main | 100 A Load Center Only, 8-Breaker Spaces

100 A Load Center Only, 8-Breaker Spaces

www.intermatic.com

If 240V get an Intermatic T10604R

main | Control Panel with T106M & T104M Mechanisms

Control Panel with T106M & T104M Mechanisms

www.intermatic.com

The Circupool RJ Manual is at - https://circupool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-RJ-PLUS-Manual.pdf

Page 16 says:

Mount the Control Module as close to the pump and filtration system as possible. For safety concerns, do not install the Control Module within 10 feet of the pool edges, and follow all applicable codes. Verify that the Cell and Flow Switch cables can reach the Control Module from the section of pipe selected for plumbing.



Can't hurt, may help, I don't think it is required in SC.



Not recommended and against all electrical codes.

Will it work depends on the details of the pump and the electrical circuit you are plugging into.

the 2 speed pump is to be delivered on the 3rd and online manual says 6 ft. 115v plug.
Luckily, I was able to find an electrician that will run a dedicated circuit prior to the pool being installed.

Thank you for the reply - great info !

 

[lattedah]

Is the following correct -
The Hayward matrix 2 speed pump would plug into a GFCI receptacle on the Intermatic control panel or can the pump be hardwired to the control panel ? The Circupool RJ60 control module is hard wired to the Intermatic control panel ? If I wanted a GFCI receptacle for lights or a radio I could have another breaker added to the Intermatic control panel and run wiring via conduit to a GFCI outlet located in an exterior outlet box with a weatherproof electric box cover ?

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[ajw22]

Is the following correct -
The Hayward matrix 2 speed pump would plug into a GFCI receptacle on the Intermatic control panel or can the pump be hardwired to the control panel ?

The Hayward Matrix pump has an on/off switch that I think also changes it to high or low speed. That switch really can't be used with the timer I gave you, especially to set a timer for what speed to run unless a bunch of wiring is done to replace the switch.

It is not clear exactly what you are getting for the switch with the pump.

You will need to have your electrician sort out what will work on the pump once you get it in hand.

The Circupool RJ60 control module is hard wired to the Intermatic control panel ?

The RJ60 is usually hard wired but some folks have installed a cord with a plug in it.

If I wanted a GFCI receptacle for lights or a radio I could have another breaker added to the Intermatic control panel and run wiring via conduit to a GFCI outlet located in an exterior outlet box with a weatherproof electric box cover

Yes you can.

 

[lattedah]

The Hayward Matrix pump has an on/off switch that I think also changes it to high or low speed. That switch really can't be used with the timer I gave you, especially to set a timer for what speed to run unless a binch of wiring is done to replace the switch.

It is not clear exactly what you are getting for the switch with the pump.

You will need to have your electrician sort out what will work on the pump once you get it in hand.



The RJ60 is usually hard wired but some folks have installed a cord with a plug in it.



Yes you can.

Greatly appreciate the information !

 

[Mdragger88]

the 2 speed pump is to be delivered on the 3rd and online manual says 6 ft. 115v plug.
Luckily, I was able to find an electrician that will run a dedicated circuit prior to the pool being installed.

Thank you for the reply - great info !

Be sure to get a quad (2 receptacles in one box) so u have plenty of room for the cords under the in use cover. It can get tight in a single gang box. They should be gfci protected.

 

[lattedah]

Today we had someone excavate for a 30 ft round Resin pool - 30" depth. He hit sand at about 27". He said this is the same type of sand he would have hauled in for the pool base. The ground has been undisturbed for over 15 years and sand is packed down well.
1) Will it be okay to install the pool on the sand base ? We will be using 8" x 16" by 4" concrete blocks under the pool supports

2) Is there a greater risk for washout ? (one side of the area is about 6" higher than the opposite side and yard drains very well.

3) What would be the preferred material for backfill ?

4) We will be using a gorilla pad and foam cove - will we need to haul in additional sand for the pool assembly ?

5) If the sand base is not suitable what are our options for stabilizing the ground ?

(I hope this makes sense.. long day - pool installation crew cancelled again for the 4th time so we let them go)

 

[Texas Splash]

I think the sand you have there now should work. Washout is always a concern with sand, however with yours being partially down in the ground, you might have more success with landscaping in such a way as to promote water run-off away from the pool. Gorilla Pads are very popular. I don't see why additional sand would be required for the cove unless it helps with the forming and shape to fit your needs. I'll reach out to @zea3 to see if she has another other thoughts. Good luck!

 

[lattedah]

We have roots growing upwards out of the ground - a few are 1/4" to 3/4" in diameter.
If I cut the roots below ground level, is there a risk the roots will eventually puncture the gorilla pad and pool liner ?
If there is a risk, any tips on how to correct this issue ?
Thanks !

 

[zea3]

You will need to treat the area where the pool will be with nut grass killer. Do you know where the roots are coming from? Is there another layer of hard packed soil under the sand?

 

[lattedah]

You will need to treat the area where the pool will be with nut grass killer. Do you know where the roots are coming from? Is there another layer of hard packed soil under the sand?

It appears that some of the roots are coming from a muscadine grape vine the neighbors to the back of our property have along their fence. There are a lot of trees behind and to the side of our property, which correlates to where the roots are located in the dug out area - mostly pine trees and sweetgum trees.

I was thinking of putting down two gorilla pads to lower the risk of the roots returning or maybe some foam pads if that is the better option to protect the liner from possible future root growth ? I am not sure what to do about the roots growing out of the side walls of dirt - is it enough to trim them even with the soil or should we put something against the walls to detour the roots ?

Once we smoothed out the area, it is firm to walk on - do not leave footprints like on a beach. . We wet it down and the sand is clay like in consistency and color . I have a ladder set up in the dug out area to climb in and out of the area and it does not sink down at all.

 

[zea3]

I would still put down nutgrass killer, then put down gorilla pads. Muscadine roots are not super aggressive but there may be other roots that are and some of them can bust through concrete!

 

[lattedah]

I would still put down nutgrass killer, then put down gorilla pads. Muscadine roots are not super aggressive but there may be other roots that are and some of them can bust through concrete!

Thank you for the information. We have ran into another issue while leveling, the soil is a lot sandier than we thought especially around the diameter where the pool supports would be. We dug a small hole in one area 2 feet deep and the sand was the same consistency. We are thinking our only option is to put in a concrete pad ? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated !

 

[zea3]

Here's what you can do. Get some pressure treated lumber and build a box to set the pool in. It will need to be about 8-12" deep, and big enough that there is at least a foot of space between the box wall and the pool. For example if you have a 30' pool you build a box big enough to hold a 31' circle. You don't want the pool or the blocks to touch the edge of the box. Here are all the steps:

• Build a box with pressure treated wood approximately 8-12" deep
• Fill the box with layers of decomposed granite or crusher stone. Lay down a 1" lift and compact it well with a plate compactor or weighted roller. Keep building layers and level them as you go so you are building a stable, level surface. Stop adding layers when you are 2" from the top of your box.
• Lay out where your paver blocks need to go to support the uprights
• Inset the paver blocks so the top of the paver is flush with the ground. Once the first paver is set, use it as a reference point to install the other blocks in a star pattern and make sure they are all level with each other before completing the installation of the pool.

This should give you a firm, stable base to build on. If you choose you can use foam coves or the same sand on site to build coves around the inside of the pool.

 

[lattedah]

Here's what you can do. Get some pressure treated lumber and build a box to set the pool in. It will need to be about 8-12" deep, and big enough that there is at least a foot of space between the box wall and the pool. For example if you have a 30' pool you build a box big enough to hold a 31' circle. You don't want the pool or the blocks to touch the edge of the box. Here are all the steps:

• Build a box with pressure treated wood approximately 8-12" deep
• Fill the box with layers of decomposed granite or crusher stone. Lay down a 1" lift and compact it well with a plate compactor or weighted roller. Keep building layers and level them as you go so you are building a stable, level surface. Stop adding layers when you are 2" from the top of your box.
• Lay out where your paver blocks need to go to support the uprights
• Inset the paver blocks so the top of the paver is flush with the ground. Once the first paver is set, use it as a reference point to install the other blocks in a star pattern and make sure they are all level with each other before completing the installation of the pool.

This should give you a firm, stable base to build on. If you choose you can use foam coves or the same sand on site to build coves around the inside of the pool.

Thank you so much for this information !

 

[lattedah]

Finally making progress on the pool installation. We went with a concrete pad after discovering the area was used as a burn pit when our house was built 20+ years ago. While leveling the area, we found nails, screws, broken glass, charred wood pieces and beer cans - 30" below ground level !

After 2 attempts trying to put the walls up with the help of my husband (short on patience)and grandson I decided to try to tackle the wall by myself.



I started out by laying the bottom rail and plates out and then measured 15' from the center to the middle of each rail. I placed a 16x8x4 inch concrete block on the back of every railing to hold them in place and a used a sharpie to outline the railing so I could keep it lined up as I installed the wall. I then laid out sheets of cardboard to move the wall around on. I started the wall by threading string trough the holes on the end of the wall and tied the string to the ladder. I kept the rolled up wall about 2 feet away from the rail which gave me good control of keeping the wall upright as I moved along. After placing a stabilizer rail on the wall and fitting the wall in the track, I would go to the back side of the wall and attach a vinyl clip to the wall and tie it to the concrete block. The rope tied to the block worked 100% better than tying the rope to a stake in the ground. I leaned an object against the inner wall on every section to support the wall. This worked surprisingly well and the ends matched up perfectly. It took 3 hours to sweep the area, prepare the string for the concrete blocks, place each railing 15' from center, lay out the cardboard and install the wall.

Tomorrow is foam cove, floor padding and liner install. We are using 2 floor pads to protect the liner from the concrete.

 

[lattedah]

Self deleted my post - I figured it out.