AquaLogic, TCell15, Check System error.... Help!

Scout101

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2015
245
North Kingstown, RI
Ok, got a new one going on, appealing to the hive mind for help! :)

Noticed the pool wasn't running during one of the times I'd have expected it to be (not running at 6pm, automation should have it on from 5-9pm, for example). Checking the controller, it had the Check System light on, and a Very Low Salt warning (700ppm). Reset things, everything cycles back on and starts as expected. Salt reading now 3200ppm and everything's fat, dumb, and happy again. What's going on?

Salt cell is brand new this season, was installed in early June. Bought in April-ish timeframe from Inyopool. T-Cell-15, replaced exact same model in my system that had lasted roughly 8-10 years before dying at the end of last season.

Currently seeing 25.32V, roughly 6.35A, pretty consistent when I flip the polarity as well (diagnostics, hit +, etc.). Pool says 3200ppm for salt in both instances.

I've been on travel for work the past two weeks, but noticed something similar on the 17th, although it thought the salt was at least higher, in the mid-2000s. I knew the salt was previously a touch low (3000ppm), so added the extra bag then to bring it up a little in case this SWG just wasn't liking the lower number and not performing as well for some reason. Has worked without issues until this evening when I noticed it again. And in both instances, it's because the pump also shuts down when this happens.

So, given it's a new cell, and after restarting it seems to see the right salt reading (3200 should be about correct), why am I getting in cycles where the system shuts off and the pump won't run without intervention? I'm about to go on vacation for a week with no on here to keep an eye on the pool, so really don't want to come back to a green pool that hasn't run or made chlorine in a week. Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Yes, I checked out that link. I have not yet removed the main board to check for damage, I suppose, although I'd think if the solder joint is the issue, it would be consistent, right? After power cycling and clearing the check system error, everything works again, reports the correct salinity, and SWG voltage/amperage looks about like what I'd expect in both polarities, so...

The Check System error light would be why the system stops and the pump won't auto-run, right? It's a brand new pump this season in addition to the SWG, both have been in operation a couple months now without issue. Both Hayward parts, bought through inyopool. And direct replacements for the previous units in the system, same brand/size/model.

After having the issue last night, for example, it ran until it was supposed to shut off (9pm), and did so. It started right up at 9am, no issues, ran until 1pm as programmed, and we'll see if it turns back on at 5pm for the nightly run.

Any other thoughts on why I might see this, coupled with it being very intermittent? Maybe with the hot weather, it's seeing water that's too hot in that first burst, which screws up its math for salinity? Both times I've noticed the error, it was with a Low Salt (or very low salt) warning in addition to the Check System light/error. Salinity is fine per the test strips, and when the system goes back to running normally, it reports a number right where it should (now 3200), so it's not consistently reading low either.

Just a little anxious about leaving it for the week now...
 
Yes, I checked out that link. I have not yet removed the main board to check for damage, I suppose, although I'd think if the solder joint is the issue, it would be consistent, right? After power cycling and clearing the check system error, everything works again, reports the correct salinity, and SWG voltage/amperage looks about like what I'd expect in both polarities, so...
Bad solder joints are very inconsistent as the conductivity can change drastically with temperature.
 
Any other thoughts on why I might see this, coupled with it being very intermittent? Maybe with the hot weather, it's seeing water that's too hot in that first burst, which screws up its math for salinity? Both times I've noticed the error, it was with a Low Salt (or very low salt) warning in addition to the Check System light/error. Salinity is fine per the test strips, and when the system goes back to running normally, it reports a number right where it should (now 3200), so it's not consistently reading low either.
I know nothing about the Aqualogic but do you have a flow switch? Not sure about the intermittent pump running issue but make sure the chlorine production is suspended when the pump failed to run as scheduled.
 
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