No, the air seems less and the pump is drawing from the skimmer. There is a small pocket of air in the top of the window of the clean out of the WhisperFlo, but it doesn't have 'extra' air coming in from the O ring area.
Also new here, need some advice
- Thread starter mhoy
- Start date
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
mhoy said:
Have you tried pouring water over the valves / joints / basket while the pump is running? This is supposed to help find suction side leaks - the leak goes away while you have water flowing over the area. Also shaving cream applied to these area should be helpful in spotting leaks if you don't do the water method.
It doesn't sound like too much air is inflitrating - I don't think this is the source of the noise but I can't say that with much authority.
Had a chat with the pool guy, insurance won't pay for a higher rated pump, they claim 1 HP is 1 HP despite industry knowledge that it isn't.
I believe a better cleaning of my filters may fix this and if not, I'll move the motor from the spa.
We also chatted about other issues, like a missing weir on the skimmer and water that needs replacement. He also said, get the water right and don't spend tons of $$ at the pool store, a very honest assessment of what to do IMHO. I mentioned noise from the pumps and said it was certainly reasonable for a pump of this type and wan't out of line. A lower flow pump would of course sound better but did I really want to spend $$ just for that at this point.
I may try the water/shaving cream trick, but it sure seems sealed at this point. The rattle is what is bugging me and I think it's from the old heater that I don't want.
I'll probably buy a rain water diverter for my back gutter and use some rain water as make up for the rainy season and a sump pump to drain a couple of inches of water from the pool before winter rain storms.
I believe a better cleaning of my filters may fix this and if not, I'll move the motor from the spa.
We also chatted about other issues, like a missing weir on the skimmer and water that needs replacement. He also said, get the water right and don't spend tons of $$ at the pool store, a very honest assessment of what to do IMHO. I mentioned noise from the pumps and said it was certainly reasonable for a pump of this type and wan't out of line. A lower flow pump would of course sound better but did I really want to spend $$ just for that at this point.
I may try the water/shaving cream trick, but it sure seems sealed at this point. The rattle is what is bugging me and I think it's from the old heater that I don't want.
I'll probably buy a rain water diverter for my back gutter and use some rain water as make up for the rainy season and a sump pump to drain a couple of inches of water from the pool before winter rain storms.
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
You may be fine with the lower rated 1hp but the impeller on the pump may need to be changed to match. Using a lower rated pump on the wrong impeller may cause over-heating.
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Test kit arrived ! ! ! Earlier today I added a gallon of bleach while I was cleaning up the yard. That was about 4.5 hours ago. There is a bit of either dirt or algae on the bottom and sides where my son missed brushing yesterday. Pool overall is looking fairly nice. Chilly out (may drop to freezing or close to it again tonight). Nice 50 F degree day though but forgot to clean the sides, will do so tomorrow. BTW: Diluted the pool water by 50% with tap water for the CYA test.
Pool Test results
Temp 46 F
ph 7.8
FC 12
CC 0.5
TA 120
CH 300
CYA 200
Should I raise to shock level to kill off what I think is remaining algae ?
Pool Test results
Temp 46 F
ph 7.8
FC 12
CC 0.5
TA 120
CH 300
CYA 200
Should I raise to shock level to kill off what I think is remaining algae ?
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Cya of 200? So it measured 100 with a 50/50 mix? I would suggest 2 parts tap water and 1 part pool water. Multiply the results by 3.
Shocking at a 200 CYA will be pretty difficult.
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Shocking at a 200 CYA will be pretty difficult.
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OK, I"ll redo the CYA tomorrow with a 2:1 dilution and see what I get. Yeah, I think they just kept dumping the chemicals and never drained anything. I'll be getting a sump pump soon I think and try and get things going in the other direction.
Any particular inexpensive pumps that are recommended? Figure I can't drain too much right now anyway as it's winter and a bit rainy so the water table may be high. I can see having to do a 50% (or more) water change in the future.
Any particular inexpensive pumps that are recommended? Figure I can't drain too much right now anyway as it's winter and a bit rainy so the water table may be high. I can see having to do a 50% (or more) water change in the future.
Harbor freight has some cheap pumps that I think some members use. Home depot rents them out, but that may not be the best for you if you are not doing a single large water change due to the water table.
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Since the FC went up I guess I should remove the floating puck thing as it's continuously adding CYA and Chlorine via pucks (and I've more than enough CYA). Not sure what to do with wet pucks, maybe I'll just dial the setting real low on it. Hmm, I could do the puck test on some staining that I have...
For the tests I'm using the nifty stir thing so at least I know things are mixing well.
Diluted pool water with 2/3 tap water to figure out CYA level.
CYA 240
FC 13.5
CC 0.5
The HF pumps look like a hit and miss with quality on the seal, but certainly cheap enough. It's a short drive if I get one that fails immediately. Probably get their 1.5" PVC discharge hose too as it rolls up nice and small when done. I'll head down there later today.
For the tests I'm using the nifty stir thing so at least I know things are mixing well.
Diluted pool water with 2/3 tap water to figure out CYA level.
CYA 240
FC 13.5
CC 0.5
The HF pumps look like a hit and miss with quality on the seal, but certainly cheap enough. It's a short drive if I get one that fails immediately. Probably get their 1.5" PVC discharge hose too as it rolls up nice and small when done. I'll head down there later today.
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
mhoy said:
Your first instinct was correct; pull the puck feeder. Dry the wet ones out very well then store in plastic bags inside the original storage container.
mhoy said:
I can't recall the maintenance level just to keep things from getting worse, the charts don't spend a lot of real estate on a CYA of 240!
mhoy said:
Loss of other ideas too tired to type
Yeah, pretty rough waters here. . . thanks for all the help so far. I decided to clean the filters and soaked them for a couple of hours in hot water and dishwasher soap. Lots came off during with the hose (green from algae) but not a lot from the dishwasher soap rinse. Since there is still green stuff in the filter from the cleaning of the pool, I guess I've not killed off the algae yet.
Perhaps next weekend I'll try a partial water drain, never got to it this weekend . . was hoping to wait til spring when the weather is warmer.
Perhaps next weekend I'll try a partial water drain, never got to it this weekend . . was hoping to wait til spring when the weather is warmer.
It is going to take a lot of partial drains to get the CYA manageable.
If you only can replace 1/3 of the water at a time, then after the first your CYA will be 160 ppm. Doing that again will get you to a bit over 100 ppm. Doing it again will get you to about 70 ppm which off at least in the ballpark.
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If you only can replace 1/3 of the water at a time, then after the first your CYA will be 160 ppm. Doing that again will get you to a bit over 100 ppm. Doing it again will get you to about 70 ppm which off at least in the ballpark.
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- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Partial drains are safer if water table is a problem... However if you use a tarp or a sheet of plastic you can drain and fill at the same time. This saves water. As mentioned three 1/3 at a time drains replaces all the water, but leaves you with 70ppm of CYA vs zero if it were all changed at once (not that you need or want zero CYA - just an example.)
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Noticed 2400 gph pond pumps being closed out at our local hardware store picked one up along with 20' of 1" pvc hose. Very similar to sump pump without the float valve. Darn thing only does 600 gph with only a 2' head through the 20' of pvc (and it's not even long enough to get to a city drain yet). Can't be too picky for $32 but 25000/600 = 40+ hours . . . probably fine as running it over night would likely be enough. The ground here is basically clay with a bit of top soil and its damp, so large water changes are probably not a good idea right now anyway.
On the plus side once I drained an inch of water I noticed that the flow in the skimmer is more like what I originally saw, so the replacement pool pump is likely fine.
Thanks for all the help so far.
On the plus side once I drained an inch of water I noticed that the flow in the skimmer is more like what I originally saw, so the replacement pool pump is likely fine.
Thanks for all the help so far.
OK, so I know I have to do a water change but I've not done it yet. (Too busy installing a new bathroom cabinet + sink). In any case, I did have sometime to look at the pool and wondered about replacement tile (some are missing) and if I should spray the tiles with dilute acid before draining the pool ? ? It's pretty caked on, I used some food grade citric acid on the two tiles on the left just to see what happens. Scrubbed the one on the one the far left with citric acid and a green scrubby.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Another picture with citric acid bubbling away, the entire edge is like this... some searches on this site have suggested a 3:1 water/muriatic acid mix in a cheap spray bottle followed by a rinse, google searches have suggested acid gels but they appear to have other additional acids that I don't think I need/want. There is no way I'm using citric acid on the whole pool with a tooth brush.
Used a spray bottle with about 3:1 water:acid mix, and sprayed it on to the scale. Voila, instant bubbling, that quickly subsided (followed by more squirts). After I almost finished a bottle worth on about 5 linear feet of area, the sprayer refused to keep spraying, so rinsed and disposed of it. It's going to be time consuming to do the entire pool, but it will sure look better. Not going to go crazy until I get around to draining/refilling the pool.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Ended up renting a sump pump as I needed 100' to get the my sewer clean out. Started at 10:15 AM and after 7 hours, only the deep end is left.
Some rust stains. I tried citric acid on one and it lightened up, but a brownish stain occurred in the run off (rusty water?) that later faded. Now that the pool is virtually empty, should I just apply damp citric acid and blot up the water?
See staining on lower right
Close up of one part:
Also some issues with the plaster
Blue cast to the plaster
Overall
I'll be back in town in a couple of days to get back to re-filling it.
Suggestions/link on how to re-fill and re-balance welcome.... I've 20 gallons of 10% chlorine from Lowes.
Probably need to raise the CYA instead of having to dilute it.
Mark
See staining on lower right
Close up of one part:
Also some issues with the plaster
Blue cast to the plaster
Overall
I'll be back in town in a couple of days to get back to re-filling it.
Suggestions/link on how to re-fill and re-balance welcome.... I've 20 gallons of 10% chlorine from Lowes.
Probably need to raise the CYA instead of having to dilute it.
Mark
If I sand off the rust stains and vacuum up the dust, it seems like it would go pretty quickly, or would I just get lots of small rust spots? (My sander has a vacuum attachment).