Algae

[Rhockett]

Hello all. Needing some help. Had this pool for 10 years. The first 6 no problems. Then we had the liner replaced. Since then we have struggled with the pool water chemistry. Algae has been an issue… not sure if chlorinator isn’t working properly but struggle to keep chlorine levels correct. Had chlorine demands…. The list goes on. Now we think we have a small leak somewhere. Going to do the bucket test but I think I have mustard algae now so trying to conquer that. I have a family owned pool store that I’ve used for 10 years and they have done my testing and I’ve bought and put in what they recommended. I have a Taylor test kit but it is so intimidating to me. Sorry this is so long but wanted some background info in there. So because I have this algae that won’t go away with what the pool store has said I’m looking for advice on my next steps. I will post my results from them from yesterday.
They had me add algaecide 60 and copper algaecide… did that 48 hours ago… brushed and brushed some more. This morning algae wS back in spots on walls, floor , ladder etc. pool store said no more chlorine or shocking as I’m about to get into a chlorine demand. FC. 5. CC 2.7
I feel like I need to SLAM it but not sure from their advice. I just need to know what to do next… I’m working now on getting my PH down.

 

[dBsooner]

Hello all. Needing some help. Had this pool for 10 years. The first 6 no problems. Then we had the liner replaced. Since then we have struggled with the pool water chemistry. Algae has been an issue… not sure if chlorinator isn’t working properly but struggle to keep chlorine levels correct. Had chlorine demands…. The list goes on. Now we think we have a small leak somewhere. Going to do the bucket test but I think I have mustard algae now so trying to conquer that. I have a family owned pool store that I’ve used for 10 years and they have done my testing and I’ve bought and put in what they recommended. I have a Taylor test kit but it is so intimidating to me. Sorry this is so long but wanted some background info in there. So because I have this algae that won’t go away with what the pool store has said I’m looking for advice on my next steps. I will post my results from them from yesterday.
They had me add algaecide 60 and copper algaecide… did that 48 hours ago… brushed and brushed some more. This morning algae wS back in spots on walls, floor , ladder etc. pool store said no more chlorine or shocking as I’m about to get into a chlorine demand. FC. 5. CC 2.7
I feel like I need to SLAM it but not sure from their advice. I just need to know what to do next… I’m working now on getting my PH down.

First, welcome to the TFP! We are glad you are here! We will get you squared away in no time! I can almost assure you that you do not have mustard algae. It is exceptionally rare. You may (and likely) have algae though.

Second, I am sorry you are going through this. I am also sorry to say your local family owned pool store is incorrect. The best thing you need IS CHLORINE to kill the algae. That copper algaecide is terrible. Once you introduce copper to your water, you cannot get it out without replacing the water.

Time to dust off your Taylor test kit and let us help you use it. The pool store tests are only there so they can show you scary results that usually aren't correct so they can then sell you expensive things you don't need. "Shocks, flocs and other crocks" (TM @Newdude). They may be family owned and local, but they wouldn't exist if they didn't sell you overpriced stuff you don't need.

So let's start with the basics: What kind of Taylor test kit do you have?

Do you have any liquid chlorine? Just sodium hypochlorite (10% or 12.5%). If so, add enough to raise your FC by 5 ppm. FOr your size pool, that would be 1.75 gallons of 10% or 1.3 gallons of 12.5%. THis will help slow the growth of algae. Do that now. DOn't add ANYTHING else to your pool until we get more info, like reliable test results.

The ONLY thing you need to get your pH down is Muriatic Acid. Nothing else. You want to lower it .4 at a time. But let's get to that second. FC is king right now. See previous statement.

And for a place to start with the reading material, I recommend: Pool Care Basics in Pool School. Get yourself the FREE PoolMath app.
Then FC/CYA Levels so you understand a little about why FC (Free chlorine) is so important and why CYA (cyanuric acid) plays a huge role in it. At the end of all this, your pool will be apart of this club: How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[JJ_Tex]

I'll keep it simple. Algae forms when there is not enough chlorine because chlorine is what kills algae.

The fact that the pool store told you no more chlorine is a huge red flag. Then they sold you on algaecides including copper algaecide which can cause stains on your pool, clothes, hair, etc. (Copper is what turns things green). That speaks volumes about their competency and motives.

 

[summertimesadness]

Rhockett,

This place is awesome. You're in good hands but follow their advice to a T and you'll get this sorted out.

 

[Rhockett]

First, welcome to the TFP! We are glad you are here! We will get you squared away in no time! I can almost assure you that you do not have mustard algae. It is exceptionally rare. You may (and likely) have algae though.

Second, I am sorry you are going through this. I am also sorry to say your local family owned pool store is incorrect. The best thing you need IS CHLORINE to kill the algae. That copper algaecide is terrible. Once you introduce copper to your water, you cannot get it out without replacing the water.

Time to dust off your Taylor test kit and let us help you use it. The pool store tests are only there so they can show you scary results that usually aren't correct so they can then sell you expensive things you don't need. "Shocks, flocs and other crocks" (TM @Newdude). They may be family owned and local, but they wouldn't exist if they didn't sell you overpriced stuff you don't need.

So let's start with the basics: What kind of Taylor test kit do you have?

Do you have any liquid chlorine? Just sodium hypochlorite (10% or 12.5%). If so, add enough to raise your FC by 5 ppm. FOr your size pool, that would be 1.75 gallons of 10% or 1.3 gallons of 12.5%. THis will help slow the growth of algae. Do that now. DOn't add ANYTHING else to your pool until we get more info, like reliable test results.

The ONLY thing you need to get your pH down is Muriatic Acid. Nothing else. You want to lower it .4 at a time. But let's get to that second. FC is king right now. See previous statement.

And for a place to start with the reading material, I recommend: Pool Care Basics in Pool School. Get yourself the FREE PoolMath app.
Then FC/CYA Levels so you understand a little about why FC (Free chlorine) is so important and why CYA (cyanuric acid) plays a huge role in it. At the end of all this, your pool will be apart of this club: How Clear is TFP Clear?

I have a Taylor Kit K-1004. I’m not sure if it is still ok… does it go bad. I may need to by some more of the reagents. I have used it to check chlorine and ph. I just checked the alk as well.
I have 1 gallon of liquid chlorine so I’ll go get some more. I also have muratic acid here.
I appreciate the help!!

 

[Rhockett]

I'll keep it simple. Algae forms when there is not enough chlorine because chlorine is what kills algae.

The fact that the pool store told you no more chlorine is a huge red flag. Then they sold you on algaecides including copper algaecide which can cause stains on your pool, clothes, hair, etc. (Copper is what turns things green). That speaks volumes about their competency and motives.

Yes, I agree with you and wanted to get more independent but I feel like I have so much conflicting info in my head…. So I decided to just use you all to learn from!! I’ve read a lot on here and it makes more sense to me than what the pool store keeps telling me.

 

[dBsooner]

I have a Taylor Kit K-1004. I’m not sure if it is still ok… does it go bad. I may need to by some more of the reagents. I have used it to check chlorine and ph. I just checked the alk as well.

Yes, the reagents go bad. Taylor recommends replacing the reagents yearly. They'd last at most 2 years.
I'd honestly just spend a little extra (instead of ordering reagents) and get a test kit that has an FAS-DPD test for FC/CC and a CYA test. The K-1004 does not have either test. These are crucial to have. So you would either have to order reagents, as well as a Taylor K-1515A test for FC/CC FAS-DPD AND a Taylor Tube 9193 and Taylor R-0013-E reagent (Both for CYA test)... OR, you could just get a new kit that has everything you need, such as the Taylor K-2006C (C is important) OR the TF-100 or TF-Pro from TFTestKits.net. I prefer the TF-Pro as it comes with the Smart Stir as well, which I find game changing. Test Kits Compared

I have 1 gallon of liquid chlorine so I’ll go get some more. I also have muratic acid here.

Perfect. Get more. Missouri? You have a Menards close? Go there! Best price you can find and it's 12.5% sodium hypochlorite.

 

[Rhockett]

Yes, the reagents go bad. Taylor recommends replacing the reagents yearly. They'd last at most 2 years.
I'd honestly just spend a little extra (instead of ordering reagents) and get a test kit that has an FAS-DPD test for FC/CC and a CYA test. The K-1004 does not have either test. These are crucial to have. So you would either have to order reagents, as well as a Taylor K-1515A test for FC/CC FAS-DPD AND a Taylor Tube 9193 and Taylor R-0013-E reagent (Both for CYA test)... OR, you could just get a new kit that has everything you need, such as the Taylor K-2006C (C is important) OR the TF-100 or TF-Pro from TFTestKits.net. I prefer the TF-Pro as it comes with the Smart Stir as well, which I find game changing. Test Kits Compared


Perfect. Get more. Missouri? You have a Menards close? Go there! Best price you can find and it's 12.5% sodium hypochlorite.

Thanks so much!! I’ll order the new kit and head to Menards!! Do you only use liquid chlorine?? I have a chlorinator too…. What about shocking? Sorry for so many questions! I’m headed to the pool school on here to read! I appreciate this site so much!

 

[mknauss]

What about shocking?

 

[dBsooner]

Thanks so much!! I’ll order the new kit and head to Menards!! Do you only use liquid chlorine?? I have a chlorinator too…. What about shocking? Sorry for so many questions! I’m headed to the pool school on here to read! I appreciate this site so much!

I, personally, only use liquid chlorine. "Shocking" is .... Marty beat me to it. Shocking isn't a thing. Watch the video. You're getting what you need at Menards.

The biggest issue with a chlorinators is the CYA will constantly be going up, otherwise they are reliable. If you have a high rate of water replacement going on (lots of backwash, waste, etc) then they can work, otherwise they work great till the CYA level gets to high and they can't give you enough FC for the CYA level, then the problems snowball until you have to replace water (to get CYA down).

Liquid Chlorine will help you offset the chlorinator not giving you enough FC for the CYA level. But lets see what your true CYA is once you get the kit. Speaking of which, I missed an option to order just a CYA kit if you were to go the repurchase re-agent and buy a K-1515A: Cyanuric Acid (CYA) Test Kit

And for the FS-DPD test, TFTestKits.net also sells the same FS-DPD: FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

But I would still go with a TF-Pro, TF-100 (with smart stir) or a K-2006C with a Speed Stir.

 

[Rhockett]

Ok… I finally got the Tf-pro delivered and am posting my results. I’m guessing muratic acid as my ph is very high. Still have some algae. I’ve been brushing and need to vacuumed to waste as there is quite a bit on the floor. So I will be adding water as I do that. I’m not sure how much muratic acid to put in. I sure appreciate your help!

 

[mknauss]

Still have some algae.

SLAM Process

 

[Rhockett]

Ok… I finally got the Tf-pro delivered and am posting my results. I’m guessing muratic acid as my ph is very high. Still have some algae. I’ve been brushing and need to vacuumed to waste as there is quite a bit on the floor. So I will be adding water as I do that. I’m not sure how much muratic acid to put in. I sure appreciate your help!

SLAM Process

Don’t I need to get my alkalinity and ph correct first?

 

[mknauss]

Read SLAM Process

pH to 7.2. Then follow the process.

 

[Rhockett]

Read SLAM Process

pH to 7.2. Then follow the process.

Thank you!