Algae in my pool

[hirenkg]

I am having green algae problem after neighbor's tree fall in my pool last year. Since then I tried many things to get the metals out such as copper, alum etc...
My CYA was low like under 10 and CC - 2PPM, and I used chlorine tabs to bring them up, and now has gone up to 85. Looking to find ways to lower CYA now, rather then draining water out.
My Yesterdays' reading shown below.

FC - 2
TC - 2.17
pH - 8
TA - 104
CH - 150
CYA - 86

It appears everything such as chlorine tabs, cal hypo's, conditioner and stabilizer affect CYA, which appears to be an important number to look at.

Any Advice to remove green algae as I can not see bottom of the pool since a month. and if I should use Swamp treat, as I already tried Super 60 Algicides from 2 stores. versus more liquid chlorine.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

 

[V___25]

Any Advice to remove green algae as I can not see bottom of the pool since a month. and if I should use Swamp treat, as I already tried Super 60 Algicides from 2 stores. versus more liquid chlorine.

Algaecides and other Fool Store magic potions will not kill current algae or clear the pool - only liquid chlorine will.
1. stay out of the pool store.
2. get your own test kit
3. download poolmath app
4. add 5ppm of Liquid chlorine every day until your test kit arrives.
5. Once test kit arrives, post full set of results.
6. Depending on test results, CYA or pH may need adjusted but then follow SLAM process.

 

[hirenkg]

Thank you very much TFP. I have ordered the TF-100 kit and looking forward to testing on my own.

For now, i have drained 30% water, refilled in with fresh water and a 5 gallon liquid chlorine. And So far, chemistry looks good based on simple test strips showing CYA of 40. From Green to Blue in 24 hours.

In order to visibly see main drain , as water is still little cloudy blue, which is better? super blue versus clarifier. I am worried how much CYA will it increase.

Also, where to point return jet for water aeration to keep pH lower? I always aim mine up at a 45 deg angle and away from the skimmer for circular motion.

 

[JJ_Tex]

In order to visibly see main drain , as water is still little cloudy blue, which is better? super blue versus clarifier. I am worried how much CYA will it increase.

Please do not add any of that stuff, only chlorine at this point. Once your test kit arrives, post up your numbers. There may be some adjustments to make, then you will start the SLAM which is keeping your chlorine elevated until everything is dead and you have crystal clear water (which will take a few days, or even longer).

 

[hirenkg]

7/3 - Pool Reading

FC - 8.41 ppm
TC - 9.4 ppm
CC - 0.99 ppm
pH - 7.6
Alkalinity - 106 ppm
CYA - 46 ppm
Copper - 0.4 ppm
phosphates - 283 ppm

Metal may be due to algicide, or copper based pool ionizer. Prefer not to add Metal Free or PhosFree.

Any suggestion for next 3 week, when I will be out of town. My neighbor will add liquid chlorine weekly.

 

[JJ_Tex]

You are in a tough spot, as the SLAM requires testing and adding of chlorine multiple times a day. If weekly is all they can do while you are out of town, I would do the following:

1. Post a set of results from your kit when it arrives (we don't have a lot of faith in the pool store results above).
2. Bring the chlorine up to SLAM level before you leave
3. Calculate how much your neighbor will have to add to get it back up to SLAM level in their weekly addition of chlorine
4. Hope that the weekly additions can keep the algae in check while you are gone, then do the actual SLAM when you return

 

[hirenkg]

Got the Kit today, and below are the readings. I still have 3 more days to do testing for SLAM.

FC - 3.0
CC - 0.5
pH - 7.5
TA - 120
CYA - 26

Please let me know the next step after raising to SLAM Level.

 

[mknauss]

Follow the SLAM Process. CYA is rounded up to 30. Lower pH to 7.2, raise FC to 12 ppm. Test and adjust FC back to 12 as often as possible.

Once complete, raise your CYA to 50 ppm.

 

[hirenkg]

So, If FC remains at 12, and OCLT test pass with loss of less then 1 ppm, then how do I raise CYA to 50 ppm at the last stage? by adding stabilizer?

 

[mknauss]

There are three criteria to passing the SLAM, be sure to read the article thoroughly.

Once you have passed all three, you would then use stabilizer to raise your CYA to 50 ppm

 

[hirenkg]

Thank you for that information. My free chlorine dropped from 18.5 ppm to 16.5 ppm in OCLT test. With current level of chlorine, I see no need to add chlorine. Will continue checking every 4 hours along with scrubbing.

 

[hirenkg]

@11AM Readings

FC - 15.5
pH - 7.5
CYA - 26

 

[mknauss]

Great. Only need to test FC during SLAM.

 

[hirenkg]

My OCLT Test passed, and I had Chlorine loss of zero and my reading look good.

FC - 17.5 ppm same as last night.
pH - 7.5
CYA - 25

 

[hirenkg]

After my 2 week return, below are the latest readings. I did had visible algae growth in some areas, that i scrubbed it. Luckily, My pool guys added stabilizer once, to keep it balanced.

FC - 2.5
pH - 7.8
CYA - 20

Based on calculator app, recommendation states to add 4 lb Stabilizer, 1/2 gallon Liq Chlorine, and 1 lb pH Down.

Is there a proper order that i need to add these?

 

[mknauss]

Add stabilizer and chlorine. I would not add dry acid. If pH gets to 8, lower it using muriatic acid.

 

[hirenkg]

After my 2 week return. I did had visible algae growth in some areas.

In such case, where algae is very visible with clear water and bottom visible, is it better to use waste setting to throw the algae out? versus scrubbing them out which ended up making entire water green.

The reason i ask, is that now i am back to FC - 1 and CC - reducing from 2 to 0.5 now after adding 4 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine. Planning to get 12% LC now.

FC -1
CC - 0.5
pH - 7.4
CYA - 35
TA - 90

 

[mknauss]

where algae is very visible

Follow the SLAM Process

 

[hirenkg]

As per the messages, I moved the pH - 7.2 and CYA from 45 to 30 to start the SLAM process. Will add Liquid Chlorine in the night to start the process.

Is there a recommendation of what pH, CYA and especially Alkalinity should be after SLAM process completes?