Intex Filter Down time Options

[Backyard Luddite]

My Sand and SWG combo was working great for the first 3 or so weeks. I started hearing a louder than usual noise coming from the motor so I shut it off and called Intex. They immediately said they would send a new Control Station for me to replace by taking off 4 screws in the motor housing. I wonder if this is happening a lot because they suggested the solution so quickly without me explaining more than a larger than normal noise.

Since I have the combo, I don't have the option of running the sand filter separately because the only motor I have runs both the Sand and SWG systems. Since I have hard plumbed everything its also going to require redoing part of the PVC pipe.

Here's my setup: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97900083@N03/9358654251/

Intex said it would take 7-10 days to get the part. Here are my options for water that is well balanced today:
1) Test a couple times a day and be aggressive with Bleach as needed. Use a brush to circulate the water a few times a day to avoid dead spots and help stop algae growth.
2) Hook up the paper cartridge filter I got with the pool (and never used). I could use the Intex outlet and plunger valve I'm no longer using because of the inwall skimmer) and just run the intlet hose into the pool directly for this short period. I don't want to have to disconnect the hard plumbed outlet return side of the sand filter.
3) Other options?

What would you do?

 

[linen]

I would hook up the cart filter so that your water is at least being circulated.

 

[Backyard Luddite]

I would hook up the cart filter so that your water is at least being circulated.

Thanks for encouraging me to hook up the cart filter! I just finished setting it up and I feel much better now that water is circulating.

I tested my water and the chlorine had dropped a bunch since Tuesday:
1) FC of 1, a TC of 1 -- so a CC of zero (BTW, I've never had a CC that wasn't zero). Chlorine results had been at at 3.5 before my SWG motor went out.
2) PH has been at 7.2 (for every test except 1 early on that was 7.5) I've never tried to adjust my PH - thinking a constant 7.2 was fine.
3) TA at 70 (constant)
4) CH at 1000 (Water has consistently tested at a CH of 1000 so maybe we just have hard water. Its an Intex Ultra Frame pool so CH doesn't matter that much but just wanted to mention our CH was at a 1000.

Since I'm without an SWG for a week or so I know I'll be adding more bleach while using this cart filter but I don't want to swing too much. Pool School recommends higher levels of FC when not using an SWG. Pool Calculator suggests adding 17 oz. of 8.25% bleach to get back up to 4. Since I'll be testing much more without my main combo filter on, I'm thinking about adding 10 oz. today and retesting tomorrow morning and possibly adding 10 oz. again based on results from adding the bleach today. The other option is go for the 17 oz. now to keep more bleach in to be more proactive (the higher FC levels for non-SWG pumps).

How many hours a day would you run the cart filter? It's a 1000 gal/hr filter. My combo filter was 1600 gal/hr and I was running it 4 hours a day during the 4 hours my pool gets direct sunlight.

 

[linen]

What is your cya level? You/we need to know that to recommend an FC level. If for example it is 70 ppm, then you want your minimum FC to be 5 ppm but you would probably shoot for 10 when you are dosing (per poolcalculator.com).

Your ph of 7.2 is fine, just don't let it drop below 7.0.

As to how long to run the filter, try the same length of time you other filter was running. Since those intex carts don't do a great job, you could go longer, but it might no make a difference. Try some experimenting.

 

[Backyard Luddite]

What is your cya level? You/we need to know that to recommend an FC level. If for example it is 70 ppm, then you want your minimum FC to be 5 ppm but you would probably shoot for 10 when you are dosing (per poolcalculator.com).

Your ph of 7.2 is fine, just don't let it drop below 7.0.

As to how long to run the filter, try the same length of time you other filter was running. Since those intex carts don't do a great job, you could go longer, but it might no make a difference. Try some experimenting.

My CYA level has been as high as 70 but its averaged in the 50s for a while - 55 today. I've used approximately 1/2 the 4 lb. container of CYA I bought a month ago. I added 6 oz. (dry weight) just a couple nights ago. I thought I'd have CYA going into next season, but to keep the CYA level at 70 I think I'm going to be going through a lot more of it before I take the pool down after Labor Day.

With an FC of 1 today, it seems like your suggesting I get more aggressive with the bleach to get to at least 5. Pool Calculator suggests adding 17 oz. of 8.25% bleach to get back up to 4. PC states 23 oz. of 8.25% bleach to get to 5S. I added 10 oz. about an hour ago. I can recheck tonight or tomorrow morning and be more aggressive to get to 5 --- or higher based on what I do with the CYA level.

I've never added anything for Borates. I purchased a box of 20 Mule Team Borax but haven't added any. I know Borates are for ph levels and algae but I've had a constant 7.2 ph and not any algae outbreaks. I had an algae outbreak with an Easy Set last year and a cart filter. Would you add the 20 Mule Team Borax to be proactive while the combo pump and filter is out?

 

[linen]

What are you using for testing cya?

If your cya has gone down that much, it means you draining a lot of water or are leaking a lot of water...do you think you have a leak?

For 55 ppm cya, poolcalculator.com gives me a FC range of 4-9 ppm...so never let it go below 4 and it is fine to dose up to 9 normally.

I wouldn't adjust ph right now, just keep an eye on it. When/if you do need to raise it use Borax. When we talk about Borates we are talking about adding a lot more and is independent from just using Borax to raise ph. I wouldn't go to 50 ppm Borates at this point.

 

[Backyard Luddite]

What are you using for testing cya?

If your cya has gone down that much, it means you draining a lot of water or are leaking a lot of water...do you think you have a leak?

For 55 ppm cya, poolcalculator.com gives me a FC range of 4-9 ppm...so never let it go below 4 and it is fine to dose up to 9 normally.

I wouldn't adjust ph right now, just keep an eye on it. When/if you do need to raise it use Borax. When we talk about Borates we are talking about adding a lot more and is independent from just using Borax to raise ph. I wouldn't go to 50 ppm Borates at this point.

I'm testing with a Taylor K-1005 test kit. I got it (and extra CYA reagent) before I found TFP. I'll definitely order the K-2006 from TFP next season.

I had a different initial water balancing process because I decided to put an inwall skimmer in after I had begun filling the pool. I had to lower the water a bit to put in the skimmer and I did have a small leak for a while but I patched it (duck tape until my Boxer glue arrived). I didn't lose more than a 6-8 inches of water - replaced by rain and hose. I haven't experienced that much evaporation either. Bottom line, I took a long time to get the water balanced but I've never had the FC above 4. My test measuring container only goes to 5.

Until the SWG went out, my FC was around 3.5. I'll shoot for 5 FC and a CYA of 55 - especially during this non-SWG phase.

The CYA testing is pretty subjective. Does the black dot have to completely disappear or just be difficult to see? I can easily go from 60 CYA (difficult to see) to 40 or 35 (completely disappear). I wouldn't want to bet a $1000 if someone else was testing my sample. I just received an order of test strips so I'll compare my results next time to the test strip.

I'll lay off the Borates for now - especially since I need to get my replacement part for the combo filter and my water balanced again.

THANKS