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Are you saying your SWG is stuck in Boost mode? Have you tried killing all of the power, so all the lights go off on the IC40, and then repowering and restarting everything?

This sounds like proper operation as you described it. When you press more or less to adjust the % of time that the cell operates, it turns on and starts generating. And then it goes off after a period of time unless you have set it to run 100%. So if you have it set to 20% for instance, it...

Yep - that's not a good sign.

My first IC40 lasted from June 2014 to June 2020. If someone quoted you $1100 to replace it, that's a fair price in today's market! But your warranty replacement was even better!

All good now! I was worried that I was doing something wrong.

Is the app still supported? I sent an email on Tuesday and never for a response. Tried to enter a trouble ticket on the support desk and it says I am restricted from accessing that support desk page.

When mine started blowing that fuse, I went through a whole box of them before I realized that it was a sign that the IC40 cell was worn out. I got about 6 Maryland Pool seasons of May through September when it died.

Dropping $600 on a pool during the season or even at the beginning probably isn't that out of the ordinary. I've had big expenses 2 out of the last 4 seasons to replace equipment. But this group will definitely lead you in the right direction and help you avoid that more of that pool store pain...

I just replaced our pressure side cleaner with a robot last week. I wish I had done it sooner!

My electric bill dropped by $80 per month when I switched to a VSP. And my electric utility rebated more than half of the cost at the time. See if your utility company has rebates for replacement of old equipment with a new energy efficient pump.

In this forum, you will find mostly Dolphin users. So I doubt if you'll get much feedback ont he Hayward and Polaris models. The Pentair Prowler is a Dolphin robot. The Nautilus CC Plus does not have a basket type of filter. So that might not be the best for your situation. I think the Prowler...

Oh - now that heater idea is a good idea!

Any known issues with just taking the input hose off of the booster pump, and screwing it into the booster line return directly? My first thought is the hose could become a concern for breaking, but they would become an issue with the booster pump too. Otherwise, having the booster line...

I'm in a similar situation. Pressure side cleaner is marginal. Going to order a robot before Memorial Day. Hadn't really considered what to do with the old booster pump and port. Could be a good spot for an aerator/fountain connection though.

I replace the tail on my Pentair Legend every season. They get brittle and don't flex as well after they spend the summer in the pool and then dry out over the winter.

Is your pump running 24/7?

How old is your salt cell? Tripping breakers and blowing fuses is also typical of a salt cell failure. I went through one season with the system intermittently throwing breakers. My pool builder thought it was the Variable Speed Pump causing it even though it wasn't caused by the pump spinning...

Where I am in Maryland, replacing with new wires/switch/breaker and bringing it up to code for less than $500 would be a bargain. If you want to save $, ask them to just install an outdoor on/off switch and you can turn it on and off yourself or just leave it running 24/7. However, as someone...

I *love* the PoolMath app from TFP. I use it for tracking everything related to the Pool, vs using pen and paper. Costs $7.99 per year. But I use it religiously.

You might try using a Mr Clean Magic Eraser (gently) to see if that helps to hasten the stain removal. Otherwise just let the chlorine lighten it over time.

Good grief Aleforge! That's a heck of a story! We are on Season 8 with our in ground vinyl liner pool. Very pleased with choosing vinyl over concrete or fiberglass. Vinyl is easy on the feet!

Just make sure all those plugs are removed before you start up your pump. If you can adjust the direction on 6/7 when you screw them in, point them towards the surface.

I used to buy reagents as they were consumed or expired. But I always bought too much of one, and ran out of something else. This year (just last week!) I threw everything away and bought a refill kit for my TF-100. That said - if I only needed powder and R-0871, I would probably just buy...

When my SWG flow light is on, the first thing I do is backwash the filter which improves the circulation. If that doesn't work then I take the SWG off and check the flow switch. I've had to replace 2-3 flow switches in 8 pool seasons. I wonder how he diagnosed a motherboard issue? Or if it...

Right - except he's within 30 days of building the pool so he shouldn't SLAM it yet. And the page you linked says he shouldn't SLAM it at CYA 90 or above. Sure it will raise CYA by about 5 in his size pool. But it will also get his chlorine up to 8.5/9 which should clear up the cloudy water.

We shock ours with a couple of pounds of dichlor to clear up cloudy water. As someone above said, your chlorine is low for your current operating conditions. I presume this isn't new for your pool builder. I would just let them deal with it when they come back to add salt. If you start chasing...

How much gas do you burn per hour?

My pool installer told me to ask him again next spring about a heater. They just are not to be had this year. He said the same thing last June. :(

I presume this was resolved. Whenever my flow light is red, my filter needs to be backwashed and rinsed. If you replaced the switch, it's directional. It has to be installed in the direction of the flow so the switch makes contact. I think there is an arrow on top of the switch so you know...

They're on an Intellibrite Controller, on a GFCI from my original pool build. I had seen where the LED fixture has a cracked housing issue. But surprisingly, I couldn't find anything here related to failures of here units.