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Not sure why you added borax, your pH was fine. If fact, if you do want to SLAM, you should have lowered it a little bit with acid. If you can see the bottom of the pool, the pH is in the 7s and the FC is at or below SLAM level for your CYA you can swim no problem.

Keep in mind that the shoulder seasons you also get less sun (time and angle) so the benefit of solar would also be reduced then. Not trying to talk you out of it, just something to consider. I personally get great results by being diligent about coving it at night with the bubble cover and...

When you test the TA of your pool water, wipe the bottle tip with a wet paper towel between every drop. If I found your SWCG online correctly, it looks like you might need to run it 24/7 on 100%.

I have the Polaris 9550 Sport Robotic Pool Cleaner in your list. Pros -The basket is WAY easier to remove/clean/replace than my old Dolphin was. -The "lift" feature is nice. When you are ready to take it out, it climbs to the wall it is pointing to, rises to the top and waits on you to pull...

Maybe this one? Treo Micro Color LED Light 2 Watts - 30 Foot - SR Smith - FLED-TM-C-30 If you watch the video about halfway through they show 2 models, one slightly smaller. Actually they have several lights that might work. https://www.poolweb.com/collections/led-pool-lights

I think you might be confusing two different things. There is di-clor and tri-clor that have both chlorine and stabilizer (CYA) in them. Then there is CYA/stabilizer by itself, which is just that, CYA. The standard way to go about opening to 0 CYA and 0 Chlorine is to add both (CYA in pure form...

The drain in the deep end is 10 feet deep and 32 feet away.

Glad you were able to solve that. This is why I am the only person that adds anything to our pool :cool:

I would actually be concerned about that copper result.

Can you "push" it from the other direction (the closer skimmer)? Either with a hose or a leaf blower or even the output of the wet vac.

Does the gauge move at all when the pump is turned off? Can you stick your hand in front of a return and feel how forcefully the water is coming out?

That looks like normal mottling to me. Accept it as your pool's beautiful unique fingerprint. If it continues to bother you over the years, next replaster you can go for a lighter color.

-Forget about TA. That is the least of your worries. -I would. Outdoor pools get all the UV they need. I don't see the point in ozone. -Not sure I get the connection between your filters and CYA. If you have CYA of 100+ more water will be drained. With a 14k pool I would think a submersible...

You have lots of space on that vertical section after the filter. I am fairly certain the circupool core 35 can be plumbed in vertically. Was that all you were asking about?

I have no idea what the RPMs are. I know that the "low" speed completely fills my SWCG cell and has decent flow out of the return.

That's exactly what I do.

That is perfectly normal, and good actually. It means your filter is working. What is the pressure just after a backwash? The time to backwash is when the pressure rises 25% over that. For instance, my post backwash pressure is 15-16 and I backwash when it gets to 20.

I have the SJ-55 and I like it just fine. When it is not happy, the flashing light usually means one of two things; the flow is too low or the salt is too low. A quick look at the cell will tell you if it's the flow.

Check out this thread. Looks like a Pentair Aqualight Pool Light Replacement Parts

That's some great progress, very nice.

I hate to be the bad guy but if we're talking day after tomorrow (16th) there is no way that water is going to be clear. The only option IMO is to be prepared to dump it tomorrow afternoon.

You're not going to believe this; I feed my cats 3 times a day! That's way easier than feeding a pool! Cost wise it basically works out to this, do you want to buy all of your chlorine for the next 5 years now (and skip the hassle of manually adding it) or do you want to buy your chlorine as...

I've never had (visible) algae in my pool. I've either manually added liquid chlorine every day or every other day until I got a SWCG and it runs 24/7 on low continuously adding a little bit of chlorine. I've never SLAMmed my pool.

If I didn't clean the filters between every run mine wouldn't do much good, but that's beside the point. I'm pretty sure those things aren't built to spend 80% of their life underwater. Some people are even diligent about hosing them out after each run.

Use the pool calculator to see how much bleach will get you to 24. You never "just dump" a bunch of anything in your pool :)

I'd add and test a lot sooner than every couple of hours at first. Like every 10-15 minutes. And add enough to get to SLAM, not just one bottle or whatever.

Plus keep in mind with estimate that your pool probably has a salt level of around 1000ppm. K-1766 will let you know for sure.

Absent a large water replacement, the salt doesn't go away. The chlorine turns back into salt when it's used up, simply speaking. Plus, just about everything you add to the pool also adds salt. So hypothetically it would actually increase over time with no additions.

If you still only have one skimmer make sure it is on the downwind side. Otherwise it will be nearly useless. For me the wind comes out of the west so the skimmer should have been put on the east side of the pool but was not so it's practically worthless. I don't know if the general wind...

This has potential for a very good thread. Please get one of the recommended test kits (TF-100 preferably) so that you will be ready when the rehab is complete.