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The hydraulic cement is good for filling the holes in the deck where the slide  legs went through?

I've never seen or contemplated a contract for building a pool but it seems odd that the dirt removal is an option and additional cost.

1. Get the pH up before SLAMMING because the pH may not be reliable above 10 ppm FC (SLAM levels). 2. CYA is harder as even after you add some, it won't be fully dissolved for 24-48 hours. You don't want to add too much but you need some so the chlorine will last in your pool. When to Test...

The FAS-DPD chlorine test is the one where you add a couple scoops of a powder and the water turns pink then you add drops and count how many it takes to make the sample clear.

What type of test kit do you have? Hopefully you have a tf-100 or Taylor test kit with the FAS-DPD Free Chlorine test. Your signature and Poolmath logs say your pool is 13,500 gallons - adding 1-1/2 gallons of 10% chlorine should raise your FC by 11. But you do need to test.

You can just replace the motor and keep the wet end of the pump if you want. There are VSP motors that will fit your pump. Pretty sure I bought my motor from Inyo.

I turn the pump off, yell at everyone in the house to not turn anything on, go look at the meter's instantaneous watt/kwatt reading, turn the pump on, check again, buy ice cream for everyone I yelled at. Also I can get hourly kW graphs/data from my utility (PG&E) and if I start my pump early in...

Did You pass the OCLT?

Sounds like you need to SLAM. To be sure you could do an overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), Description for both is in the Algae section of Pool School

If your pool is 33000 gallons 1.5 to 1.75 gallons is 5 ppm. PoolMath will show you that in its Effects of Adding section.

Your pH will probably rise slowly and you'll have to add some more later. Even without knowing your pool i imagine pH will be good for at least a week. As long as you test often enough you can add more before it gets too high. For MA additions it is important you don't add too much. If PoolMath...

To waste wherever you have that plumbed - same place your DE goes when you backwash. You will need a multiport valve for a sand filter also.

I have a sand filter which works just fine for me. If I needed to replace it, I would probably go with a large cartridge filter based on what I've read here. When I bought the house, oh so many decades ago, it had a cartridge filter and it just did not work, I switched to DE and then to sand. I...

We can see your PoolMath logs. You definitely need to add some liquid chlorine to get the FC up. If your pool is 33000 gallons you need to add a couple of gallons of 10% chlorine just to get it in range. Adding a little too much chlorine will be OK. PoolMath has an "Effects of Adding" section...

Since you are going to stop using your Frog Leap twin sanitizer go buy some liquid chlorine and start using it now.. Use your TFP Test kit to make sure your FC is at the high end of the FC/CYA chart. Test often to get a feel for how your pool consumes chlorine - think in terms of PPM/day. Looks...

TFP wiki: Jandy Aqualink RS further reading If you want to dive in, there is a VSP Setup and Scheduling section. You might also want to search TFP and browse through all the Aqualink RS posts first.

Price comparison

Keeping your chemistry in check will be your best bet for preventing algae growth. Get a good test kit and read through the Pool school articles. A pool cover definitely helps with evaporation and lc usage.

Fwiw, for me the up front cost of an swcg is about the cost of 2-3 years of lc. I get my 10% lc at Home depot. Lately the date codes have been within a week, pretty stoked about that. Pool store 12.5% was cheaper a couple of years ago but not any more. Seems I'm always at the hardware store for...

Are your calcs correct? The table in that wiki page says 8.77% available chlorine for 10% trade. Making the HD 10% a better buy. And the HD SDS says it is 10% by weight

Zero CYA will be at least part of the problem. Are you using a FAS-DPD test kit to measure your FC? Maybe you already have algae growing, have you done an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?

When you test the water if the Free Chlorine concentration stays pretty constant then it is producing enough chlorine. You should add your pool and equipment details to your signature.

Are the two wires on terminals one and three still connected? The ones that go to the clock? Maybe add a picture of your install - like in your first post. Do you have a volt meter?

My bot is on its first season. I'm a little reluctant to open things up just to check the seals, I'd be concerned about getting to seal as well as the factory had it but it doesn't look like they took any great pains to make it watertight. I thought lubricating the o-rings was just to keep them...

I saw this on another thread and didn't want to hijack it. Is there any periodic maintenance we should do to mitigate this? Like, I try to change the seals on my pump every season.

They have a nice table comparing the different models that helps a bit. Once you decide on a model/brand if it's a popular 'bot you may have to wait a bit or get a similar bot.