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That's odd but indeed, very interesting! Do you have a multimeter and are confident working around electricity? Find out if pin#12 of the U5 chip switches from Hi (24vdc) to Lo (0 vdc). Please reference the schematic diagram below. I am not into a repair business but feel free to pm me for a...

Interesting! But how did you calibrate the cell if the reading is 0? On a known good bd, the relay should click even if the cell is disconnected as long as the switch is in Auto. The relay should click approx 10 seconds after the Generating LED turns on. Your cp's stopwatch might come in handy...

Did you get the newest mainboard this time with sw r 1.47? I don't think replacing the Thermistor will fix the problem that you're having with the old board. A T-5 cell does not put a heavy load on the thermistor as much as the T-15 does. But if you would like to venture out, get an EEPROM...

It looks like a corrupted EEPROM data. There have been a few threads in this forum for the same issues with no known fix. Reprogramming the U4 (93C46B) 16-bit Serial EEPROM should fix it. But I have not known anyone here who has gotten around it. Try to call Hayward and see what they can do.

@OP, You have sw r1.58 and it looks like the thermistor AS32-2R05 is cracked. The picture's quality makes it hard to confirm that. However, the display should be working. The TB1 jumper setting on your board suggested that you are wired for 120VAC operation. Make sure that the 120VAC is present...

In case you want to stay with the same AS32 models. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ametherm/as32-2r025/2614388

You might have the wrong references. Pin 2 is Negative and pin 4 is Positive 5Vdc. Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading This might give you some leads in troubleshooting your AQR bd.

I hope this video will help others troubleshoot their Aquarite Salt cell temperature sensor. AQR Salt Cell Temperature Sensor bypass

It should work for Aquarite. Try it! I have this old AQR mainboard sw r1.55 with a hacked 10k resistor soldered on the PCB to spoof the temp sensor. I move the jumper to the 10k resistor during cold months for uninterrupted chlorine production or remove the jumper to keep the temp sensor line...

On the Aquarite, you can isolate the thermister or disconnect the red or blue wire for testing. With the temp sensor disconnected, the controller will revert to the default fixed temp at 77°F.

I have to agree with JamesW, 2800 ppm is most likely incorrect. Get yourself a K-1766 Salt test kit. You need to understand that the salt cell when nearing the end of its useful life or if heavily soiled will give a lower salt reading than the actual salt level. You made the most common mistake...

Move the switch to the OFF position. Push the diagnostic button 2x. What's the voltage reading on the display? Is the power led illuminated for as long as the AC power is on? Or if you are confident working around electricity, get a voltmeter and measure the incoming AC supply between terminals...

Product ID getting stuck in AL-5 instead of the correct AL-7 in the diagnostics. Tell tale sign that EEPROM data is corrupted presumably caused by voltage spike or lightning. But you need to get the display bd going to confirm. Maybe you have a bad disp bd.

Is your pump running? Can you post the diagnostic readings? Can't remember if the 'No Flow' blinks on a RJ during the initial start-up. But the 'Click' sound you are referring to will happen exactly 10 seconds after the 'Generating' LED has turned on. Let's hope that this is not another AL-5 issue!

Fyi, the Hayward Aquatrol is shipped with a T-5 cell by default and the Cell type selection is not available in the diagnostics. However, other Aquatrol users in this forum have testified that upgrading the T-5 cell to a T-15 is feasible by installing a jumper wire across the J4 solder pads on...

Reseat the display bd and make sure the contact pins are sitting properly in place.

You have the newest Hayward Aquatrol (GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ) sw r1.47 mainboard. The diagnostic readings suggested that the system is idle and chlorine production is suspended. You may want to change the unit from Metric to Standard. Start by pressing the ‘Diagnostics’ button one time. Once showing...

or Google search for "panel mount ac receptacle" and compare the dimensions. How about this one?

Looks like you're overthinking! The Aquarite and Aquatrol mainboards retain the Average Salinity reading and the cell maintenance minder, stored them in a non-volatile memory even after power is turned off. This information will change each time the system is turned on and put into service.

That's great! At some point, I was tempted to respond and offer my free services in repairing to include parts and possibly upgrade the sw to the newest r1.59 on this to whoever takes it. You are in the same region as me. Please do not hesitate to holler at me if you need help. Also, you may...

No need to replace the circuit bd either unless it's dead. You have the newest sw r1.59, it's a keeper. If you're having issues producing chlorine, focus your troubleshooting on the cell. Comparing the instant salinity readings between the preset start and stop run time will help you determine...

@OP, For us to help you better, please post the diagnostic readings and show us pictures of the controller board and salt cell.