Had our Salt pool since about 2008 or 9. Second time replacing the circuit board. Recently it would not kick the pump on. Multimeter seemed to indicate the board was dead. Not a real surprise as we have had a lot of storms, pwr outages and brown outs. Replaced it, a few weeks later the read out said high salt. Checked the water and it was super salty with almost no chlorine. Salt cell looked ok but cleaned it anyway, checked all the connections in the control box and the power level coming from the outlet. Turned it to super chlorination and but there was not power going to the salt cell. Ran through the diagnostics on the display but there was no display for the salt cell. Looked on this blog and saw information about the J4 jumper. The jumper was not connected. We have always had a T15 cell and looking at the last circuit board, the J4 was not connected on it either and it seemed to work for years. The salt cell is 2 or 3 yrs old and I am not convinced that the cell is the issue as there is no power going to it. However, if the control panel is not seeing the cell then I am willing to solder the J4 if I need to but the T15 worked before with the J4 open. Thanks
Hayward AquaTrol jumper
- Thread starter BigJohnson
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,613
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I don't think the J4 jumper is your problem. Having a T-15 cell without the jumper will work but the salinity will be wrong and you will not get the output of a T-15 cell.
Post pics of your board and let us see how you wired it.
Post pics of your board and let us see how you wired it.
If you have an aquatrol , check the 20 amp circuit breaker and also the thermistor. Also check the outlet on the aquatrol that you plug your pump into. I recently had to replace the outlet.
The pump works fine now and the timer turns it on/off when it is supposed to. The salt cell seemed to work until recently. The cell "looks" fine but I am not sure how to check that without just replacing it and that is $$$.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,088
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You can take the cell to a retailer that sells them to get it checked if it is a genuine Hayward cell.
Leslie’s, pinch a penny and others.
Call around
Leslie’s, pinch a penny and others.
Call around
No, it is a brand that no one ever heard of. This is our third T-15 cell and I think it was the cheapest that could be found by my wife. The abreviated version. Salt cell not working. Just installed our third circuit board and the cell seemed to work for a week. The display does not show any cell. Pool professionally installed in 2012. The label on the control box is aquatrol but the circuit board is aquarite (based on the part number on the board). I was told that the board was aquatrol and I needed to put a jumper on J4. I looked up the board and the part number indicates it is an aquarite. I searched for an aquatrol board and it looks nothing like the boards that we have bought. My wife and I checked our files and the last two boards was aquarite and all of the cells have been T-15. That being said, I think I have been over thinking this and the problem is that the cheap salt cell died and we need to go back to the Hayward parts.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,088
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Is it 2 or 3 yrs old? Thats a bit of a difference.
What brand is it?
How much do you run it? Some generic cells only have a 3-5k hour life expectancy if run at 100%.
What brand is it?
How much do you run it? Some generic cells only have a 3-5k hour life expectancy if run at 100%.
@OP,
For us to help you better, please post the diagnostic readings and show us pictures of the controller board and salt cell.
For us to help you better, please post the diagnostic readings and show us pictures of the controller board and salt cell.
lplatz
Well-known member
Hey johnnydot. My power outlet to my motor just got cooked. The black wire heated up and broke free of the motherboard terminal. I've been looking for a replacement outlet. I saw that you recently replaced your outlet... where did you get it? Can't find a parts diagram or part number for the outlet. Thanks in advance.
Attachments
Sorry, I have been busy with other fires.
Back to the pool
The readings seem to be: 23, 30.9, 0.00, 31P, 0.00, AL-7, r 1.47,
The last water test was 3406. My wife has not added salt for a while, and we had to add water. Hose leaked for about an hour or two.
My wife ordered a board from the Pool Warehouse and I think it may be the wrong one.
The board looks just like the last one but I don't have the first one that the pool came with.
As I may have said before, the pool was installed with a T-15 Cell, a aqua trol control box with a aqua rite circuit board installed and it worked fine for years.
Eventually we replaced the cell and the circuit board (not at the same time). I think the brown outs, black outs, and bad storms just got to the board.
This year the circuit board went out. I guess I could have some parts on the board but I am not an electronics guy so we ordered a new board.
it seemed to work but after a few days my wife noticed that display said HI and the Hi salt light was on but the generating light was not on.
I ran through the diagnostic display and the display did not display a T-cell.
After reading everyone's comments I think the new board may be the wrong on or the software may be for a T-5 rather than a T-15.
The confusion for me is that the new board is the same model number as the last board. G1-015005-10.
If this is the wrong board then it must have just limped along for a few years until it just gave up.
Additionally: I talked to HAYWARD and the tech said the board should work with the T-15 cell. He was walking me through some readings when I lost signal. I called him back and the next person simply refused to help and wanted me to submit a ticket.
You can get this on amazon for about $8 -
weideer 3Pcs 3 Pins US Power Socket Plug Panel 15A 125V AC Panel Mount Outlet Industrial Plug Female Connectors Adapter with 18AWG Connection line K-019-X
You have the newest Hayward Aquatrol (GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ) sw r1.47 mainboard. The diagnostic readings suggested that the system is idle and chlorine production is suspended.
You may want to change the unit from Metric to Standard. Start by pressing the ‘Diagnostics’ button one time. Once showing the temperature in Celsius (ie. 23), move the switch up to ‘Super Chlorinate’ then back to auto. Immediately the temperature reading should change to reflect a Fahrenheit value.
The image below highlights the difference between the Hayward Aquatrol vs Hayward Aquarite mainboard. Notice the difference?
For reference, the Aquatrol has an additional K3 Relay that carries the AC power to run the pump. Also, it has a J1 Connector on top of the pcb to accommodate the built-in timer. Otoh, the Aquarite has none of those mentioned.
Wow, thanks for the information. This is information I wish I had weeks ago. I will switch to standard when I get home. It still sounds like my system should work. The difference in your pics and mine is that my board does not have a place to insert a jumper. I would have to get someone to soldier the parts together. But my last board does not have a jumper in place either and it worked for a few years. Finally got a pic to load. I am going to check the GFCI that I plug the box into. It is several years old and seems to work but I am just grasping as strays to find the issue.
Attachments
Fyi, the Hayward Aquatrol is shipped with a T-5 cell by default and the Cell type selection is not available in the diagnostics.
However, other Aquatrol users in this forum have testified that upgrading the T-5 cell to a T-15 is feasible by installing a jumper wire across the J4 solder pads on the pcb. A 2.54mm pin header will make it look professional but one can just solder a piece of wire across the J4 solder pads. Having said that, you're on your own on this.
Additionally, software r1.47 bd like yours can handle the high current load demand of the T-15 cell without having to worry about burning the thermistor.
Now back to the main issue. First off, you need to get a reliable Salt Test kit like the Taylor K-1766 if not already.
And, this is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
However, other Aquatrol users in this forum have testified that upgrading the T-5 cell to a T-15 is feasible by installing a jumper wire across the J4 solder pads on the pcb. A 2.54mm pin header will make it look professional but one can just solder a piece of wire across the J4 solder pads. Having said that, you're on your own on this.
Additionally, software r1.47 bd like yours can handle the high current load demand of the T-15 cell without having to worry about burning the thermistor.
Now back to the main issue. First off, you need to get a reliable Salt Test kit like the Taylor K-1766 if not already.
And, this is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
This connector is burned and it should be replaced.
Once a connector is damaged, the resistance increases and the connection gets hotter and hotter and it eventually burns through completely.
Maybe the display board is damaged or not set correctly.
Once a connector is damaged, the resistance increases and the connection gets hotter and hotter and it eventually burns through completely.
Maybe the display board is damaged or not set correctly.
I will replace the connector. It seems to work and I used a multimeter but I will replace it. My wife was on at the control panel when I got home and had hayward on the phone. He said the aquatrol board that we had should only work with a T-5 cell and that getting an aquarite board to run the T-15 would also require installing a flow meter. Additionally he said that the aquarite board would not run the timer as the aquatrol does. He said that the board should not have been able to run the T15 and he did not know why it worked in the past. I asked about the jumper and he said he had not heard of that before. My question to him, the people here, and the janitor is why did this same brand, style, and model circuit board worked fine until this one. As I said before, when we replaced the cell and the board by ordering the exact replacement. The ball is in my wife's court now. It is her pool. She is either going to let me get the J4 jumper soldered or she will order a T5 cell. Thanks for your help.