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I help a neighbor with apprx 13k gallon vinyl above ground pool following the trouble free pool method with liquid chlorine. Filter is DE, base psi is 12, psi right now is 15. Chlorine level is good according to CYA levels. CYA ~60, FCL 7-9 target, min 5, todays reading was 12 (i like to keep it...

Virtually no threat where I am here in PA but in an emergenxy I'd rather have the option to use the pool water that is otherwise sitting here useless.

I do also have a 3" gas trash pump that could push alot of water, but in an emergency, until I can get it out of the shed with the suction hose and all other 2 1/2" firehose, and then try to start it, it would take a while. The pool setup is ready and waiting just to turn a few valves and hook...

Yes I can select main or skimmer, should not be an issue with that. I'm going to give it a go. Adapters, reducers, valves and a 1" wildland spray nozzle less then $75. Used 1" wildland hose ~$52 for 100' (gonna order 400'). Should be a good start.

Just thinking through some stuff here. I know its physically possible to do, but would it work without hurting the pump in an emergency situation for fast water access? Using the waste output of the pump for emergency water in a [brush] fire situation? For example: My waste output is 1.5" pvc...

I think the ledges/benches/steps are purposely left a little rough for traction, but my walls are way worse.

I can't speak for the OP but the roughness I am talking about cannot be removed, it's actually the erosion (pitting) of the fiberglass surface.

I have the same issue in my pool. I did not find the TFP process until I converted to saltwater a few years ago. Since then my chemistry is spot on but the pool surface between above the water line and below the water line is night and day. As an analogy, above the water line is 4000 grit sand...

Opened up Saturday 4/30, water temp 52. Today all clear and water temp 82. The last picture is of a leaf at the bottom of the deep end, about ~6'. Water color looks funky but that's because of the reflection of a overcast sky. Edit: Forgot to add Si is at -0.13

Finally exhausted my 15lb CO2 cylinder yesterday 10/5. It lasted pretty much the entire season for me. I'm still open but not much swimming going on, gonna close shortly.

I'm still on my first 15lb cylinder as of today.

Echoing others, please explain. I've documented my expenses this season since converting to a SWCG last season. I am at $97.50 total since opening (April 2021) and don't expect much more purchases until closing. Liquid chlorine and/or tablet chlorine would be well over my total cost so far...

Here is what I've been using:

Mid summer pic here with the 'magic hovering' tube:

He said they just got 6 inches of rain... That'll do it. We got 1.5" in 30 minutes the other day and I had low salt, pool was overflowing. One section of my deck concrete we did is pitched incorrectly and collects a lot of rain water into the pool. Blessing and a curse because I do lose a lot of...

With all that rain I would say it's definitely lower then normal. As Jimrahbe stated, you should check it with the Taylor kit to see just how much you need to add. I'm in PA and just had to add a bag today due to the past few days of rain.

Ah yes, this is true. I control my ph with automatic co2 injection and rarely test for it as it is very stable at 7.5.

Adding on to what ajw22 said, if your pool gets little use, dial it down a bit. But if you get alot of bathers all the time, leave it where it is. Mine is normally around 10-13 with a CYA of about 70 but I always have huge bather loads so I try to leave it on the high side.

Look for local chemical supply shops, they may have better stock then big box or pool stores. My local chemical place has 12.5% sodium hypo (liquid chlorine) in 1gal, 5gal, 15gal, 55gal and totes. I am sure they also have muriatic acid in similar quantities but I have not needed any yet and did...

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What is your CYA at? That will determine what your FC needs to be. Use the chart here: Chlorine / CYA Chart - Trouble Free Pool

I agree, lots of people in a 'smallish' pool. It doesn't worry me in the sense that the pool will turn or there's algea. As others have stated in different threads, it just bothers me that it's TFP clear for me and the fam and I can 'brag' but when there's a giant party (which happens about...

My filter is one speed and runs daily 8am-5pm or anytime there are swimmers. I keep my Fcl elevated at all times, well above the target level listed on the cya/fcl chart for SWG's because I go by the target levels for liquid chlorine (usually 9-12). I suppose I can bump it even higher towards...

For anyone else wondering, it's a Latham pool and they recommend 200-300.

Ok thx

Helping a friend with a new Pentair Intellichlor system. Whats the recommended CH Level for this? Its a new fiberglass in ground.

My chlorine is at the max per my CYA level and the chart. If I go more, it will become unhealthy for bathers at SLAM levels.

Title says it. I want to know how to stop it, at all costs. It bothers me :) Commercial pools don't have the issue so why should I? What do I need? a bigger filter system? Pool is always TFP crystal clear and stays that way until a large party (~12+ kids & 10+ adults in pool) . It'll go away...