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it's hard to see in the pic- but there is a band of green along the bottom of the wall. Brushing and slamming did not help. Any tips?

the pool was re-plastered about 3 months ago. Since then the pH is constantly running high (8+). I keep adding acid- it goes down for a day or two and then back up. Any tips? CYA=40 TA=80 CH=325 FC=2

pool loses about half an inch a day. I have had a pressure test done and return lines do not hold pressure. Local companies charge about $500 to locate the leak electronically (repairs not included), which is just absurd. Do you know of any DIY ideas?

problem is, the threaded universal wall fitting is buried in the pool wall- so I only have access to the quick-disconnect end. Basically, I need something like this: https://www.poolzoom.com/eyeball-fitting.html with no hole. I tried filling the hole with putty, but the whole eyeball pops out...

A few months ago I installed a new ozone generator. Since then there are heavy, white particles (size of kosher salt) at the bottom of the spa. I thought it would be gone by now but there is no reduction. Calcium level is 70ppm. Any ideas how to fix?

when I first got my DE filter, I could go 2-3 months before backwashing/cleaning. But nowadays (3 years later) I have to do it every 3-4 weeks (judging based on pressure gauge as well as loss of polaris power). Is there any reason filter would need cleaning more frequently than before? (I do...

my current marcite finish is peeling off- which means it is not adhered to the pool anymore. If they just put a new layer on top of it, would it not come off together? or would they grind away the existing marcite before resurfacing? (I don't think that would be common practice)

I have been trying to raise TA from 30 to 80 by adding a couple of pounds of baking soda at a time- and it is progressing very slowly. I believe the reason they recommend not adding a lot is to keep the pH from raising up too high. Is there a way to raise TA more quickly? e.g. add a lot of...

My pH was under 7, so I added 2-3 pounds of soda ash. The pH went up to 7.6- however the TA dropped from 80 to 30! does that make sense at all?

I have noticed if I keep the temperature at 91, the chlorine will dissipate several times faster than 89. Is there a way to maintain FC a little longer? I know CYA protects against sunlight- not sure about heat though.

I have replaced the tube once. Lowered the top of the filter slowly so it would not break the tube. Next time I removed the top, it was broken again! any idea why? It seems it is not flexible enough... this is the part I am talking about: Flex Air Relief Assembly | Hayward Residential and...

there is only one pipe after the filter returning to the pool (it splits into jets and pressure-side cleaner port under ground). Can I still install a booster pump? Diagrams I have seen all show a dedicated line going only to the cleaner port.

First, I am aware that the seniors here do not recommend tablets so no need to repeat that. For those who do use chlorine feeders, do you see the rate start high when you first fill the feeder, and go down as the tablets get smaller? or is it consistent throughout the cycle?

If the water appears clear, and all the parameters are in spec, does that necessarily mean it is safe to swim? I realize presence of FC means organics are under control- but I just wanna make sure before I let people in at the beginning of the season.

I just cleaned the grids and charged the filter, but there is a small leak around the belt. I need to lift the top to fix the O-ring. Question is, can I do this without losing the DE? Or do I need to backwash, service, and recharge?

I was having issues with my 360- mostly getting stuck in the corner. I tried all possible thrust jet locations with no avail. Turns out my ball bearings were bad. I replaced them using this video: Polaris Stuck in Corner, Changing the bearings- Polaris 360, 380 - YouTube It is much easier...

My pool loses about 200g per day. Is it a good idea to switch to SWG? I have calculated in order to keep the salt level in spec for Pentair SWG, I need to add salt every 3 months, which is fine. My concern is I have a lot of vegetation around the pool (palm trees, shrubs, etc). would a leaky...

we all know that during backwash process, you are supposed to switch between normal and reverse flow direction several times in order to get as much DE and dirt out as possible. My question is, can you switch between backwash and rinse positions, as opposed to switch between backwash and filter...

I only use the pool about 6 months a year, and I would like the water to be a few degrees warmer during those months. I am thinking of solar heater. Pool is not screened- however there are a lot of trees around. I will not be covering the pool at night. Manual covers are just too much work...

My numerous attempts (myself as well as professionals) to find a leak has failed- so I'm going to let the water go down to see where it stops. Do you see any issues with that plan? I have connected a hose to the skimmer and dropped it in the deep end to keep the water circulating. Seems to work...

there is a PVC fitting screwed to the bottom of my skimmer (see picture below). I am trying to remove it but it is impossible to hand-remove. there are hex sides at the bottom of it but I cannot think of a wrench or socket that will get in there around it. Some kind of T-shaped tool maybe?

I have searched around and most seem to be pointing towards FC levels- but my pool FC is not even that high (<4). In my spa I don't even use chlorine (I use nature2+MPS) and I still get dry skin after soaking for an hour or two. pH is also within range. Not a salt system. In my experience...

we have been getting a lot of rain lately and frogs are having parties at night right outside my bedroom. They are not actually in the pool (I have a ramp to make sure they don't die in the pool) - they just gather around the pool and make noises all night. I have tried citric acid spray with no...

I have noticed if I backwash until clear, rinse, and backwash again, water comes out dirty again. I have repeated this 3 times and still not quite satisfied with clarity- makes me want to open it up every time I need to clean

I have done a lot of research and it appears that salt pools have a constant acid demand- so I'd be adding a gallon of acid every week instead of adding a jug of liquid chlorine per week. So what's the point? Chlorine is safer to handle anyways

I don't think this point is emphasized enough in the pool school. About a year ago, as a new pool owner I thought clear water is all about chemistry. I had all the kits, I was measuring chemicals once a day, SLAMing regularly, calculating values, keeping things within .5 ppm of targets. I spent...

I tried Behr textured Deckover, which is supposed to last two coats 75 sq ft per gallon. It only lasted about 20 sq ft. My deck is very porous: after application: Any ideas how to do this without spending tens of gallons of product?

I got a $70 CMP leveler- it stopped working properly after a few months. There is another type with good reviews- it is kinda expensive though: https://www.amazon.com/IG-Staypoollizer-Premium-Automatic-Leveler/dp/B004CO5TI8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491832075&sr=8-4&keywords=pool+water+leveler...

it is dripping slowly from around the clamp. O-ring is lubed and clamp nut is torqued correctly. Also, when I opened it back up I noticed that most of new DE is at the bottom, very little has got on the grids.

during leaf season I need to clean skimmer baskets multiple times a day and don't want to shut off the pump every time. Is there a way to "lock" the weir in upright position to block the flow while you are cleaning the skimmer?