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Here where it is sunny and warm winters, I have to turn down my SWG to a 1/3 what it is during summer.

With a SLAM you want pH at 7.2 first and then will add chlorine. Worry about all the rest after SLAM.

Keep it where it is, just keep your chlorine in line according to the chart. Houston get so much sun and rain it will drop on its own in no time.

CYA is fine for the AZ valley. I wouldn't go lower. CH is pretty good for AZ. Mine runs 350 out the tap.

15ml water and 15ml solution should work for more exact measurement.

Don't know about the error. You have to add liquid chlorine to get chlorine to the desired level. A SWG is meant to maintain FC (ie. make up daily sun loss). I would get your FC up to the correct level using Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart then do an Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC...

I have the 540. I have to run about 9 hours a day and have my CYA up to 90 to help with the sun here in the valley burning off the FC. You need to use liquid chlorine to get your FC where you want and then run the SWG long enough to make up daily burn off. I then add liquid chlorine...

Probably shouldn't drain. 1) You need to test CH in your fill water. If you are high draining won't help much. 2) Too hot to drain unless you do the water exchange method. Again, your fill water might not be much better and barely lower CH and then you will have to add chemicals. You need to...

If I had to guess 2E and 2F are suction into 1A since 1B is closed. This then goes through your filter and heater and back up to after 1B. 3H and 3I are outputs to spa and pool.

CYA is Cyanuric Acid and usually called stabilizer on the label.

Besides getting a good test kit... Assuming your strips are correct, you need to get some Stabilizer/Cyanuric Acid in the pool. I would shoot to around 25 just in case the strip is off some. You also need to get enough liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 10 and keep it there. Pool School - SLAM...

Dogs can get poisoned with salt water but a salt pool is 1/10 what an ocean is so the chance of something happening is VERY small. Maybe if you left him outside with no water for days. As for a screwed up reading, everything screws it up. People, sun, leaves, dogs, even the dead rats I get in...

No reason to add cal-hypo now. You already increased your calcium with the calcium hardness increaser. Just use regular bleach or liquid chlorine and get it up to normal FC using the CYA/FC chart in mknauss links. You really need a good test kit like the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006"C".

FC = Free Chlorine. So in 24 hours your SWG can add 8.4ppm free chlorine. Powder forms of chlorine will also add Calcium or CYA (Cyanuric Acid) and can cause problems if those get high and require draining water from the pool. That is why liquid chlorine is recommended (if available). It only...

If you have algae, your SWG (Salt Water Generator) can't produce chlorine fast enough to battle it. It produces 8.4FC per 24 hours for your pool. Best is to use regular bleach or liquid chlorine if available. You really need a test kit. The best that you might be able to get is the Taylor K2006.

2 gals 10% liquid chlorine immediately. Try to keep FC above 5 after. 1 gallon = 5FC for your pool. Order a TF-100 or Taylor K2006c test kit. For Phoenix you need to raise CYA to 80 or 90 after you get test kit. I run 90 since I get full sun all day.

2 gals 10% liquid chlorine immediately. Try to keep FC above 5 after. 1 gallon = 5FC for your pool. Order a TF-100 or Taylor K2006c test kit. For Phoenix you need to raise CYA to 80 or 90 after you get test kit. I run 90 since I get full sun all day.

Sounds like you need to SLAM. Mine was totally clear by the second day.

For Chlorine levels, you need a FAS/DPD test. The default is an OTO test that you just match color and only goes up to 5-10FC. The FAS/DPD can read much higher and is need for a SLAM.

Your salt is fine. Liquid chlorine doesn't have much salt. Just use some to get your FC up and then perform an OCLT with the SWG off to see if you need to SLAM. Don't know about the Omnilogic.

I assume you have the Taylor k2006? You can go to YouTube and enter Taylor K2006 test kit and get a bunch of videos. It should have measurements. I have the TF100 so I am not sure on the K2006.

Yep. My TA runs high from fill water so it shot up. MA is my friend.

Jeeze! Three days of muddy rain. My dolphin bag looked like it drove through a mud bank. Oh well. At least the monsoons keep my electric bill lower! Back to cleaning and testing.

What kind of pool do you have? If plaster, your CH is low so you could use cal-hypo to raise FC and CH. If vinyl, I would use liquid chlorine to raise FC since CYA is high and you don't need anymore CH. TA is fine if pH isn't rising or lowering. Get a TF-100 or Taylor K2006c test kit.

FC depends on when your SWG runs. Test right before it cuts on. If above 3, you are fine. FC is safe up to SLAM level. Heater is more sensitive to pH than CH. Don't know about fiberglass. Whatever it is at, make sure your CSI is in range (-.3 to 0 for Salt pools)

The Ace Hardware near my house rents a sump pump. Some Home Depot do also.

Probably pollen and junk from the rain. Try to vacuum it up. What kind of filter? A sand filter can take a little longer to filter. You can try an OCLT or just keep your chlorine ~2 FC higher right now.

Re: Cloudy water still white foam on top Get a good test kit like the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. At least a FAS/DPD chlorine test. 10+ tells us nothing but that you have chlorine. 4 Gallons of 6% raises your FC by 23. You may/probably are just wasting chlorine just dumping in without a good...

If your CC is 1 you have not finished SLAM. You finish when ALL 3 items are passed. After that, if your pH and TA stay stable you only need to add bleach/chlorine to counter your daily usage. For your pool size, 2 FC drop would be about 1/3 a gallon of 10% a day. If you have shade you might...

Re: Scale, high TA and Just let your chlorine lower by itself. You are safe to swim up to 28FC for your CYA level. TA: Test your water that you top off the pool with. If your TA is high there you will just have to keep adding Muriatic Acid. My fill water TA is 140 so it just keeps climbing...