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The tub is wired through a 50 Amp 240v GFI breaker, the Arctic Spa pack has connections for either 110 or 220v blower. I can get either voltage for a replacement, Arctic Spa changed from 110v blowers to 220v years ago, I upgraded my 2004 pack to their latest version a few months ago to...

Spa Pack has connections for either, is 230 more efficient?

So the tub ran all night and fully heated up. I played around with the blower today, I had taken the blower apart and inspected it closely, still plenty of life on the motor brushes and no sign of shorts and continuity was good, so I put it back together and plugged it back into the spa pack...

I opened up the blower,completely dry inside. The soot inside the cover was from a technician who did something wrong and the board smoked, he replaced it along with the heater, this was years ago.

Would this relay be on the spa pack board?

3 pumps, air blower is what is tripping the breaker.

Okay, now that I'm paying closer attention to this, it trips faster than I thought. I disconnected the Ozone, still tripped, same with the heater, on to the blower, Bingo! The blower runs as soon as the power is turned on, runs for a few minutes then the breaker trips. All other functions...

Thanks Jim, Can you suggest a way to check the heater?

GFI Breaker

2004 Arctic Spa in good overall condition, breaker trips from time to time. I run all the pumps, blower, heater and can't make it trip, but will find it tripped days later. Thoughts?

My Raypak heater was making this howling noise also, I have a variable speed pump, I played with the RPM's, raising it silenced it, dropping it brought the noise back. Thanks!

Is there anyone who repairs these units? Maytronics says it needs to be replaced, no repair option.

I have a 2004 model Arctic Spa, we have only used Baqua Spa products and sanitizer since new. There was quite a buildup of biofilm in the plumbing which I am in the process of purging with Ahhsome. Would chlorine be a better choice moving forward?

I got them off, had to buy an air saw, it was the only tool small enough to get into the very limited space.

Carriage head bolts through a Rubber insulation base just spin, no way to lock the bolt to unscrew the nut. No room to get a cutting tool on them. Any suggestions appreciated.

Thank you, yes the same particles. Would leaving the product in the water overnight help to break down its bond to the plumbing?

Thanks for the replys, I found an exact replacement pump and wet end for less than half the Arctic Spa price. Once I replace it I'll pull the old one apart to see how to replace the bearings, any tips appreciated. All 3 pumps on this tub have been flooded a few times due to hoses letting go from...

Ahhsomeguy, I've used the product 4 times in the last year on my 16 year old Arctic Spa tub. The last time I went so far as removing the jets and cleaning the yellow/beige film that had accumulated there, refilled and did another treatment. What I can't seem to eliminate is particles of this...

Found that my #2 pump had blown a fuse, replaced the fuse and the pump was very loud, obviously bearings are shot. Its a 56 frame 3hp single speed. Arctic Spa pump is $460, I see similar pumps for $260, whats the difference?

That fixed it thanks!

One year old cleaner, worked fine on a weekly schedule set up on my phone, suddenly the phone app can't locate the Robot, but works fine from the control panel. Any clues?

I get the same stains from leaves and dirt that gets caught under the springs, I spray it with bleach and water and they fade away in a week or so.

I just wanted to post a follow up to closing my pool myself for the first time. it appears that I was successful, cover is off, pump is running and nothing appears to be leaking. I worried all winter about the "what if's" but with the help of this forum, it all went well, thank you!

For the floor drain and floor returns, I blew air through them until they bubbled for a minute or so and then turned the related Jandy valves to air lock them, no plugs involved with those. I have 3 floor returns, I was only able to get the one in the shallow end to bubble, PoolGuyinCT let me...

Once I blew out and plugged the wall returns, I turned the valve to close them off and that directed the air to the floor returns, was that the correct way to do that? As I said, I was only able to get the shallow end return to bubble.

I'm going to dig up my old photo albums that have pictures of the build process and see if I can see the floor return piping.

This is not a pop up system, they are simply grills in the floor that work exactly as the wall returns do, they are controlled by the same Jandy valve that controls to wall returns, turn the valve one way, wall works, turn the other way, floor works, put it in the middle, both work.

The pool company suggested them because I have a heater, to better circulate the heated water.