Recent content by kabutotx

  1. K

    FC levels and low tempatures

    Here where it is sunny and warm winters, I have to turn down my SWG to a 1/3 what it is during summer.
  2. K

    High CYA & Calcium Hardness

    With a SLAM you want pH at 7.2 first and then will add chlorine. Worry about all the rest after SLAM.
  3. K

    Should I lower CYA?

    Keep it where it is, just keep your chlorine in line according to the chart. Houston get so much sun and rain it will drop on its own in no time.
  4. K

    My first test results...

    CYA is fine for the AZ valley. I wouldn't go lower. CH is pretty good for AZ. Mine runs 350 out the tap.
  5. K

    Really getting Frustrated with CYA

    15ml water and 15ml solution should work for more exact measurement.
  6. K

    Jandy AquaPure Salt Water Chlorinator - no chlorine production

    Don't know about the error. You have to add liquid chlorine to get chlorine to the desired level. A SWG is meant to maintain FC (ie. make up daily sun loss). I would get your FC up to the correct level using Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart then do an Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC...
  7. K

    CH 500 + Salt 5000 + green algae = drain tonight and start over?

    I have the 540. I have to run about 9 hours a day and have my CYA up to 90 to help with the sun here in the valley burning off the FC. You need to use liquid chlorine to get your FC where you want and then run the SWG long enough to make up daily burn off. I then add liquid chlorine...
  8. K

    CH 500 + Salt 5000 + green algae = drain tonight and start over?

    Probably shouldn't drain. 1) You need to test CH in your fill water. If you are high draining won't help much. 2) Too hot to drain unless you do the water exchange method. Again, your fill water might not be much better and barely lower CH and then you will have to add chemicals. You need to...
  9. K

    I can't figure out what valves do what

    If I had to guess 2E and 2F are suction into 1A since 1B is closed. This then goes through your filter and heater and back up to after 1B. 3H and 3I are outputs to spa and pool.
  10. K

    No chlorine in my salt pool

    CYA is Cyanuric Acid and usually called stabilizer on the label.
  11. K

    Trying to salvage a screwup...help!

    Besides getting a good test kit... Assuming your strips are correct, you need to get some Stabilizer/Cyanuric Acid in the pool. I would shoot to around 25 just in case the strip is off some. You also need to get enough liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 10 and keep it there. Pool School - SLAM...
  12. K

    Dogs in SW pool

    Dogs can get poisoned with salt water but a salt pool is 1/10 what an ocean is so the chance of something happening is VERY small. Maybe if you left him outside with no water for days. As for a screwed up reading, everything screws it up. People, sun, leaves, dogs, even the dead rats I get in...
  13. K

    New Pool - no chlorine on day 5 - Shock?

    No reason to add cal-hypo now. You already increased your calcium with the calcium hardness increaser. Just use regular bleach or liquid chlorine and get it up to normal FC using the CYA/FC chart in mknauss links. You really need a good test kit like the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006"C".
  14. K

    No chlorine in my salt pool

    FC = Free Chlorine. So in 24 hours your SWG can add 8.4ppm free chlorine. Powder forms of chlorine will also add Calcium or CYA (Cyanuric Acid) and can cause problems if those get high and require draining water from the pool. That is why liquid chlorine is recommended (if available). It only...
  15. K

    No chlorine in my salt pool

    If you have algae, your SWG (Salt Water Generator) can't produce chlorine fast enough to battle it. It produces 8.4FC per 24 hours for your pool. Best is to use regular bleach or liquid chlorine if available. You really need a test kit. The best that you might be able to get is the Taylor K2006.