Metals in pool

Pennypat

Bronze Supporter
Jul 15, 2016
168
Hiram, GA
Pool Size
26700
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I’m so weary with trying to get my pool looking good this year. I’ve had stains on everything white and the liner of the pool. I’ve done 3 ascorbic acid treatments. The 1st 2 times, I didn’t use a sequestrant. My bad, I was confused (I thought I could use polyfil). And, the second time I used Culator thinking that would pull the metals out. I did an algea treatment also. Then, I did a a third treatment using a sequestrant. I have cleaned my filter cartridges and salt cell. As soon as I start raising my chlorine back up the stains come right back. I’m thinking about opening my wallet and throwing my money in the trash. I’m including pics of the sequestrant I used and the stains.
CYA 40
FC 1-2
PH 7.4
Alkalinity 60

I’m feeling a little discouraged about this. I started in early May, the water temps were in the 60 degree range. Now they’re in the 80’s and I don’t like dropping the chlorine. And, I’m about $250 in now. I just ordered another CULater.
 

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I hear you... You might want to reach out to the people at Jack's magic for figuring out a proper sequestering agent and plan. I have spoken to them (both Don and Pete) in the last week, and each of them were -extremely- helpful in helping me put a plan together to combat metals. And, yes, I hear you on the AA treatments. I've done enough myself that I have the entire process memorized and feel like I can do it in my sleep (that's not a good thing, that means I haven't yet mastered how to handle getting all the metals OUT of my pool quite yet, without the occasional "oops" where I brought metals out of solution into suspension, and therefore, staining).

Some random thoughts for you...
  • CuLators can help (but only if the metals are sequestered) to remove the metals, but they probably won't get everything before staining happens.
  • If you don't have a DE filter, adding DE to your sand/cartridge filters, or adding Jack's Filter Fiber should allow you to catch more of the metals due to them catching lower micron junk than a standard sand or cartridge filter can't do by itself.
  • If iron/metals are coming from your auto-fill or fill water, taking steps with pre-filtering before it gets into your pool can reduce metals in your pool.
  • Running polyfill in your filters helps remove some iron/metals but ONLY if its been oxidized and falls from solution to suspension (coloring your water green) but again, by that time, chances are the staining will occur before you remove ALL of it.
  • A lower pH (7.0-7.4 consistently) can help will preventing staining, but if your CH is also really high, it might not help as much as you might hope because the water can only absorb so many minerals until they are filtered out. If you're NOT a plaster pool (and are fiberglass or vinyl), than this is much easier as you can keep your CH lower, as you don't care about CSI like us plaster pool people do.
  • Keeping FC on the lower end (still within your FC/CYA standards) WILL help because it allows the metals to stay in solution. When your FC goes up too high, the metals go from solution into suspension and turn your water color and likely will start to stain IF you don't back them back into solution quick enough or filter them out (through your filter or polyfill) quick enough too.
  • Draining water may help, but it's not a solution (more of a band aid) if metals are still getting into your pool through other means (and there's more means than JUST by auto-fills), despite what people often lead you to believe.
  • Some pools (depending on design, covers, etc.) have a LOT more evaporation (or leaks even) than others, which means, more auto-filling, which again will be problematic until you address this because you'll just keep re-adding more metal into the pool/.
  • On large SWG pools, salt can add metals. Even if your salt is 99% pure, when you're adding 720+ pounds of salt into a large pool, even 99% purity means alot of other Crud and metals are still getting into your pool! (this is often overlooked I think)
  • AA treatments are neat, but they suck having to do mid-summer because of the havoc on the AA cancelling out your chlorine and vice versa, and for 2-4 days you might be battling getting your chlorine up, with regular FC dosing, but you CANNOT overshoot, or you'll just take all the metal and put it back into suspension. And certain sequestrants you might use (and you really do need to use them when doing an AA treatment!!), like Jack's Magenta (which is stronger than their Purple stuff) will react to Polyquat-60 (if you use that) and cause a ton of cloudiness in your pool quickly too, which can take a week or more to get out, so that's another headache.
  • It can help to use Jack's sequest test kit to validate your sequestrant PPM values to make sure you HIT the right dosing for every week's maintenance dosing (which you need to do as sequestrants will break down, like most everything else) and when it does, expect problems, as I'm sure you're well aware...
  • For AA treatments, you can buy 5 pounds bags of Vitamin-C for as CHEAP as $27.37 (way cheaper than pool store "treatments). so that as least LOWERS your cost when you need to do AA treatments.
(I didn't proofread this, I'm in a hurry, so if anything seems off, might be a typo)

Anyways just some random thoughts. Happy to answer specific questions you might have. I just thought a bunch of random things might be helpful to start.
J

PS - I feel your pain on this topic, I really do... and whatever more info you can share about your pool, the better. Willing to keep the discussion going. Metals is what makes me wanna fill my pool in and turn it into a mini put course. Some metal problems are SO difficult to manage, and some people just don't "get it" and how complicated it "can" be (not necessarily ALWAYS is, but keyword being "can", depending on the pool)
 
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I hear you... You might want to reach out to the people at Jack's magic for figuring out a proper sequestering agent and plan. I have spoken to them (both Don and Pete) in the last week, and each of them were -extremely- helpful in helping me put a plan together to combat metals. And, yes, I hear you on the AA treatments. I've done enough myself that I have the entire process memorized and feel like I can do it in my sleep (that's not a good thing, that means I haven't yet mastered how to handle getting all the metals OUT of my pool quite yet, without the occasional "oops" where I brought metals out of solution into suspension, and therefore, staining).

Some random thoughts for you...
  • CuLators can help (but only if the metals are sequestered) to remove the metals, but they probably won't get everything before staining happens.
  • If you don't have a DE filter, adding DE to your sand/cartridge filters, or adding Jack's Filter Fiber should allow you to catch more of the metals due to them catching lower micron junk than a standard sand or cartridge filter can't do by itself.
  • If iron/metals are coming from your auto-fill or fill water, taking steps with pre-filtering before it gets into your pool can reduce metals in your pool.
  • Running polyfill in your filters helps remove some iron/metals but ONLY if its been oxidized and falls from solution to suspension (coloring your water green) but again, by that time, chances are the staining will occur before you remove ALL of it.
  • A lower pH (7.0-7.4 consistently) can help will preventing staining, but if your CH is also really high, it might not help as much as you might hope because the water can only absorb so many minerals until they are filtered out. If you're NOT a plaster pool (and are fiberglass or vinyl), than this is much easier as you can keep your CH lower, as you don't care about CSI like us plaster pool people do.
  • Keeping FC on the lower end (still within your FC/CYA standards) WILL help because it allows the metals to stay in solution. When your FC goes up too high, the metals go from solution into suspension and turn your water color and likely will start to stain IF you don't back them back into solution quick enough or filter them out (through your filter or polyfill) quick enough too.
  • Draining water may help, but it's not a solution (more of a band aid) if metals are still getting into your pool through other means (and there's more means than JUST by auto-fills), despite what people often lead you to believe.
  • Some pools (depending on design, covers, etc.) have a LOT more evaporation (or leaks even) than others, which means, more auto-filling, which again will be problematic until you address this because you'll just keep re-adding more metal into the pool/.
  • On large SWG pools, salt can add metals. Even if your salt is 99% pure, when you're adding 720+ pounds of salt into a large pool, even 99% purity means alot of other Crud and metals are still getting into your pool! (this is often overlooked I think)
  • AA treatments are neat, but they suck having to do mid-summer because of the havoc on the AA cancelling out your chlorine and vice versa, and for 2-4 days you might be battling getting your chlorine up, with regular FC dosing, but you CANNOT overshoot, or you'll just take all the metal and put it back into suspension. And certain sequestrants you might use (and you really do need to use them when doing an AA treatment!!), like Jack's Magenta (which is stronger than their Purple stuff) will react to Polyquat-60 (if you use that) and cause a ton of cloudiness in your pool quickly too, which can take a week or more to get out, so that's another headache.
  • It can help to use Jack's sequest test kit to validate your sequestrant PPM values to make sure you HIT the right dosing for every week's maintenance dosing (which you need to do as sequestrants will break down, like most everything else) and when it does, expect problems, as I'm sure you're well aware...
  • For AA treatments, you can buy 5 pounds bags of Vitamin-C for as CHEAP as $27.37 (way cheaper than pool store "treatments). so that as least LOWERS your cost when you need to do AA treatments.
(I didn't proofread this, I'm in a hurry, so if anything seems off, might be a typo)

Anyways just some random thoughts. Happy to answer specific questions you might have. I just thought a bunch of random things might be helpful to start.
J

PS - I feel your pain on this topic, I really do... and whatever more info you can share about your pool, the better. Willing to keep the discussion going. Metals is what makes me wanna fill my pool in and turn it into a mini put course. Some metal problems are SO difficult to manage, and some people just don't "get it" and how complicated it "can" be (not necessarily ALWAYS is, but keyword being "can", depending on the pool)
Where do you get AA for $27.37?
 
I have been battling iron stains all summer. Don’t refer me to a link on the website. I promise you, I have tried everything!!! As soon as I raise my chlorine up to 2 ppm stains return.
I have tried to narrow down the source. I’ve tested my fill water at the spigot and the hose. No iron. We recently cleaned our filters and the inside of the filter has a band that is rusty looking. I’m attaching a picture. What do you think? Would I have to replace my whole filter system or just the band?
 

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No, it’s county water. I have tested it and the hose it comes out of and it’s negative for iron and copper.
 
What is that band are made out of? Is it metal or plastic where the staining is? I'm assuming its plastic and might just be able to be acid washed clean?
 
Also is your auto-fill for your pool coming from a well? I know you said you tested the spigot and hose and don't get an iron rating but, that doesn't mean there's not iron (trust me, been there, done that). Even with a 0.00 reading, if I fill a 5 gallon bucket with water, and add 1tsp-1tbs of chlorine, mix and stir, by the next morning, the water color changes drastically to a yellow/green, and if I let that 5 gallon bucket sit another day or two, the water color will clear up back to normal by the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket will have iron staining on the bottom. It's worth trying, if you want to verify if your fill/auto-fill water has iron in it, try the bucket test?

Take pictures 5 minutes after filling the bucket, this will give you a comparison to look back to. Then wait a few hours and add your 1tsp chlorine. Wait a few hours or the next morning, and take another picture, and compare to the first. Then do it again 1 day later, and compare again. Also, try to put something over your bucket to stop junk from getting in your bucket that could discolor the water or cause algae etc.

(This may not be scientifically accurate, but it -seems- to work for me when testing water from the well, versus -filterered- water from the well, versus -filtered- water from the well running at LOW-flow versus normal flow, etc.)
 
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Also is your auto-fill for your pool coming from a well? I know you said you tested the spigot and hose and don't get an iron rating but, that doesn't mean there's not iron (trust me, been there, done that). Even with a 0.00 reading, if I fill a 5 gallon bucket with water, and add 1tsp of chlorine, mix and stir, by the next morning, the water color changes drastically to a yellow/green, and if I let that 5 gallon bucket sit another day or two, the water color will clear up back to normal by the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket will have iron staining on the bottom. It's worth trying, if you want to verify if your fill/auto-fill water has iron in it, try the bucket test?

Take pictures 5 minutes after filling the bucket, this will give you a comparison to look back to. Then wait a few hours and add your 1tsp chlorine. Wait a few hours or the next morning, and take another picture, and compare to the first. Then do it again 1 day later, and compare again. Also, try to put something over your bucket to stop junk from getting in your bucket that could discolor the water or cause algae etc.

(This may not be scientifically accurate, but it -seems- to work for me when testing water from the well, versus -filterered- water from the well, versus -filtered- water from the well running at LOW-flow versus normal flow, etc.)
I have county water. I’ll try that test. The only white bucket I have is about 1 gallon. Do you think that would work?
 
No, it’s county water. I have tested it and the hose it comes out of and it’s negative for iron and copper.
So, if it is not iron, what do YOU think is the source of the stain? Didn't the AA treatment work?,,,,,,,,,,that would be iron. Where is it coming from?
 
The AA works. But, as soon as I start raising my chlorine. I’m starting over. I’ve done it slowly, my ph is down, etc. I have a Culator and it is the orangey/pinky color that is supposed to be iron.
 
Read and follow these instructions carefully...

 
1 gallon is probably small, not sure how well the test would work, never tried it.. You can buy 5 gallon white buckets at a hardware store or Home Depot or Lowes or Menards or something other place like that for a couple bucks. Might be worth getting one or two, they come in handy for lots of things.
 
The band is stainless steel
Hmm, I guess you could try replacing the band itself and clean up the rest by spraying some diluted MA to clear everything up. Not sure how much a new metal band costs or if that could even be a problem. Have you tried removing the band and just cleaning with diluted MA?
 
The AA works. But, as soon as I start raising my chlorine. I’m starting over. I’ve done it slowly, my ph is down, etc. I have a Culator and it is the orangey/pinky color that is supposed to be iron.
I thought yellow was Iron in the CuLator. I don't remember seeing anything from orange/pink (you'd be best off asking CuLator what that color means). Just because the water tests clear of iron, doesn't mean there's not iron in your water (unfortunately).
 
I don't believe that band is removable - and probably isn't the source of metals in your pool water.

Post test results for metals.
How are you testing for metals?
Are you seeing staining on the liner?
List any chemicals, etc. that have been used.
Post a few pics of the pool.

How long has the pool been maintain using TFP methods?
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature
 
I don't believe the iron test is valid. Everything points to iron in your water. Do you have a water softener?
What is that band are made out of? Is it metal or plastic where the staining is? I'm assuming its plastic and might just be able to be acid washed clean?
It is stainless steel!
 

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