Help?

[JB89]

I got my CH up almost to target and my CYA almost to target, but when I tested today I found I have no FC. Is bleach the best option or liquid chlorine? I have an SWG but that will take to long according to Pool math. It does recommend bleach but wanted to confirm. Salt is good as well so I’m not sure what happened.

PH 7.2 was 7.4 and dropped
FC - 0
CC - 0
CH - 220
CYA - 60
TA - 80
Salt - 3300

SWG at 50%

 

[Perno13]

I'm a rookie so please wait for more folks to chime in, but bleach/chlorine is the same thing. The main differentiators are strength of concentration, which you can adjust in the PoolMath app. I get mine from Pinch A Penny 2.5 gallons at a time, and they give me bleach @ 10.5% concentration. Hope this helps.

 

[JB89]

I'm a rookie so please wait for more folks to chime in, but bleach/chlorine is the same thing. The main differentiators are strength of concentration, which you can adjust in the PoolMath app. I get mine from Pinch A Penny 2.5 gallons at a time, and they give me bleach @ 10.5% concentration. Hope this helps.

That does help. I appreciate it! We have a local hardware store I’m headed there now to pick some up.

 

[JB89]

I found this would this be useable or bad brand?

 

[JB89]

I also found this but I’m not sure about cal hypo as well.

Also is it possible that I need to turn my salt cell up?

 

[ajw22]

That is good 10% pure liquid chlorine.

Check the date code and confirm it is reasonably fresh - Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading

Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

I also found this but I’m not sure about cal hypo as well.

The garnular cal-hypo adds chlorine and calcium to the water. Unless you need calcium in your pool liquid chlorine is better to use.

Calcium Hypochlorite - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Also is it possible that I need to turn my salt cell up?

What % is your cell set at and how long do you run your pump?

What is your water temperature?

With your FC drop to 0 you should do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if algae snuck into your water.

 

[Youfah Mizzum]

Your salt is low, so I'd add a 20kg bag. That's how they're sold here is Australia.

And liquid chlorine is preferable to granular.
Like @ajw22 says, do a OCLT too.

It's your winter/spring over there so at 50% SWG that should sufficient to maintain FC but if your salt is low, it might not be generating the required chlorine.

 

[ajw22]

Your salt is low, so I'd add a 20kg bag. That's how they're sold here is Australia.

3300ppm is a good salt level for a Pentair iChlor30 cell. More salt is not necessary.

 

[JB89]

Your salt is low, so I'd add a 20kg bag. That's how they're sold here is Australia.

And liquid chlorine is preferable to granular.
Like @ajw22 says, do a OCLT too.

It's your winter/spring over there so at 50% SWG that should sufficient to maintain FC but if your salt is low, it might not be generating the required chlorine.

Yeah what’s mind blowing is it was 10 then 5 and now zero and the temperature’s haven’t gotten out of the 60F range. It’s been low of 40F.

 

[JB89]

3300ppm is a good salt level for a Pentair iChlor30 cell. More salt is not necessary.

 

[JB89]

The garnular cal-hypo adds chlorine and calcium to the water. Unless you need calcium in your pool liquid chlorine is better to use.

Calcium Hypochlorite - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

What % is your cell set at and how long do you run your pump?

What is your water temperature?

With your FC drop to 0 you should do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if algae snuck into your water.

Salt cell is at 50%

Water temp was 68-70F my temperature gauge is crappy.

 

[ajw22]

How long do you run your pump for?

The pool have a cover?

 

[JB89]

How long do you run your pump for?

The pool have a cover?

No cover on the pool. I run for 12 hours. Right now it’s running 24hrs due to me adding chemicals and raising things.

Update as well I just retested everything after adding the liquid chlorine below are the results.

FC - 7.8
CC - 0.4
PH - 7.4
CH - 220
TA - 100
CYA - 60
Salt - 4120 PPM ( I haven’t added any salt)

I just received my tracer digital salinity meter and calibrated it to test the salt.

 

[JB89]

The garnular cal-hypo adds chlorine and calcium to the water. Unless you need calcium in your pool liquid chlorine is better to use.

Calcium Hypochlorite - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

What % is your cell set at and how long do you run your pump?

What is your water temperature?

With your FC drop to 0 you should do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if algae snuck into your water.

I’m reading the OCLT article and will perform this tomorrow night along with report the results back on this thread.

 

[JB89]

This place is awesome btw! I appreciate all the help in learning how to take care of my pool and look forward to learning more.

 

[mknauss]

This place is awesome btw!

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[JB89]

Preformed my FC test and recorded. Looked back at the vial and it turned slightly pink not much as pictured below. I added the 5 drops to check CC and no change after swirling for a bit. I did the math and CC was a 1. Am I crazy and didn’t put enough in the FC test or was I too slow? I don’t have a chlorine smell coming from my pool and plan to do the OCLT tonight to confirm. Let me know your thoughts please!

 

[JB89]

I’m reading the OCLT article and will perform this tomorrow night along with report the results back on this thread

How long do you run your pump for?

The pool have a cover?

When I perform an OCLT do I leave the pump running as is? Still running 24hrs right now. So just shut off the SWG wait 30 minutes and test, tomorrow morning test again before the sun comes up?

 

[ajw22]

When I perform an OCLT do I leave the pump running as is? Still running 24hrs right now. So just shut off the SWG wait 30 minutes and test, tomorrow morning test again before the sun comes up?

Correct, SWG off, pump on for Overnight Chlorine Loss Test