Help?

[Newdude]

Youre in GREAT hands with @Mdragger88 on the case. All I have to add is to switch to 10ml test samples and each drop is 1/2 FC to save 2.5x the supplies. The number before the decimal is the important one. A 2.2 or 2.5 are equally as needing attention. Or a 24.5 or 25.2 are both equally as good for hitting your SLAM target.

 

[JB89]

Youre in GREAT hands with @Mdragger88 on the case. All I have to add is to switch to 10ml test samples and each drop is 1/2 FC to save 2.5x the supplies. The number before the decimal is the important one. A 2.2 or 2.5 are equally as needing attention. Or a 24.5 or 25.2 are both equally as good for hitting your SLAM target.

Thank you very much. I have switched to the 10ml sample to save on supplies. I'll be sure to indicated decimals when appropriate to ensure everything is accurate.

 

[Mdragger88]

Started doing the Slam process yesterday and been keeping notes in my logs. Appears to be clearing slightly but slowly. FC was 25 this morning and I’ll check again after work. Temperatures are around freezing or just above so hopefully I retain my high FC for slamming. I stocked up on good bleach to be prepared and will continue to report back. I was worried about the freezing temperatures but I didn’t want to run my waterfall and increase the PH even though it would be slow, it’s my understanding I wouldn’t be able to confirm an accurate PH due to the high FC at this moment. No signs of algae visibly and non detect on CC.

You’re gonna wanna run any water features for at least an hour or so each day during slam so they get that slam level water run through them. This shouldn’t affect ph too much.
You have multiple cya results of 70 but now say 60- cya generally doesn’t change that much in a short time.
if the dot disappears anywhere between 60 & 70 it counts as 70 & slam level is 28ppm. Always round up if between.
To refresh:
For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
Hopefully the cool weather will be of help!
SLAM ON

 

[JB89]

You’re gonna wanna run any water features for at least an hour or so each day during slam so they get that slam level water run through them. This shouldn’t affect ph too much.
You have multiple cya results of 70 but now say 60- cya generally doesn’t change that much in a short time.
if the dot disappears anywhere between 60 & 70 it counts as 70 & slam level is 28ppm. Always round up if between.
To refresh:
For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
Hopefully the cool weather will be of help!
SLAM ON

Heck yeah, I appreciate the information. I will run my waterfall for at least an hour to ensure it's moving the water appropriately as well. I'll use the 70 Cya round up and boost the slam FC up. Unfortunately, this may take longer for me than the usual for others due to my work schedule but will stay the course.

 

[Mdragger88]

Heck yeah, I appreciate the information. I will run my waterfall for at least an hour to ensure it's moving the water appropriately as well. I'll use the 70 Cya round up and boost the slam FC up. Unfortunately, this may take longer for me than the usual for others due to my work schedule but will stay the course.

Just Do your best during the work week - 3xs a day is usually doable for most & is significantly better than just 2xs.
Of course the more often you can replenish slam fc the faster it goes. Then get after it on the weekend/off days.

 

[JB89]

Just Do your best during the work week - 3xs a day is usually doable for most & is significantly better than just 2xs.
Of course the more often you can replenish slam fc the faster it goes. Then get after it on the weekend/off days.

The SLAM is going well and I’ve been keep updates via my logs. I’ve posted a few pictures below for viewing. Trust the TFP method and the SLAM still continuing the process until it’s super clear!

 

[Mdragger88]

Keeping going until u pass ALL 3 end of slam criteria you’ll be tfp clear soon!
How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[JB89]

Keeping going until u pass ALL 3 end of slam criteria you’ll be tfp clear soon!
How Clear is TFP Clear?

Once all test are pasted what’s the optimal time to turn my SWG back on to the proper setting? And begin balancing everything again? I know I have to let the FC coast down but just want to make sure my pool stays optimal.

 

[Mdragger88]

Once all test are pasted what’s the optimal time to turn my SWG back on to the proper setting? And begin balancing everything again? I know I have to let the FC coast down but just want to make sure my pool stays optimal.

Let fc drop to high target
FC/CYA Levels
& then set the swg to maintain

 

[JB89]

Let fc drop to high target
FC/CYA Levels
& then set the swg to maintain

Thank you!

 

[JB89]

Let fc drop to high target
FC/CYA Levels
& then set the swg to maintain

The TFP method! Passed all three test. FC was 28 when I tested last night and 28 this morning when I tested again. CC is and has remained at zero. The last step is shown below! If anyone seeing this post is skeptical of the TFP method trust me it works!

 

[C&HSewell]

The TFP method! Passed all three test. FC was 28 when I tested last night and 28 this morning when I tested again. CC is and has remained at zero. The last step is shown below! If anyone seeing this post is skeptical of the TFP method trust me it works! View attachment 478434View attachment 478435

I concur...Looks good. Just let the FC drop while keeping an eye on it to make sure you get the SWG going in time.

 

[JB89]

This is a general question about using a specific brand of chemicals. I was told to never use the Clorox brand under any circumstances because it adds unnecessary things to the water. I'm just wanting to know if this is true or not?

 

[PoolStored]

This is a general question about using a specific brand of chemicals. I was told to never use the Clorox brand under any circumstances because it adds unnecessary things to the water. I'm just wanting to know if this is true or not?

We generally recommend not using Clorox products. Their bleach products have "chloromax" technology which causes problems. Clorox salt, a number of times, has had contaminants in it, causing staining.
One example: Instant Stain

 

[JB89]

I concur...Looks good. Just let the FC drop while keeping an eye on it to make sure you get the SWG going in time.

Thanks! I should have stopped the pump to get the water calm because the pictures would have looked a lot better I basically judge the clarity of it by standing at my back patio door with is about 50 ft from the shallow end of the pool and if I can see the main drains and robot vac then it's clear! Also, I appreciate the note on the FC, and I'll be keeping a close eye on it. I did find out that where the PB told me to set the SWG @ wasn't right and will be setting it based off of the pool math calculations to ensure I have a trouble-free pool!

 

[Texas Splash]

They also have some "Blue" products which may contain copper. Best to avoid those as well.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Most of the Clorox products aren’t even manufactured by Clorox. They simply licensed their name to a holding company that then sells the chemicals. Most of their chlorine products come with things your pool doesn’t need. Their bleach, and really ALL retail laundry bleach, contains additives that apply a layer of fabric protection chemicals on clothing surfaces to make them more stain resistant. It’s actually impossible to find any retail bleach brand that doesn’t have this.

Their solid chlorine products all have metal additives.

Their pool salt has been reported many times on TFP to cause staining which would indicate that it contains an iron-based anti-caking agent or some other metal contaminants.

No idea how good their stabilizer (cyanuric acid) is.

 

[Newdude]

No idea how good their stabilizer (cyanuric acid) is.

That was good (100%) as of last season. Haven't seen any this year yet to confirm it still is.

 

[JB89]

Awesome! I appreciate everyone's input. This confirms it for me that I won't be using any Clorox products.

 

[Mdragger88]

I have used the clorox cya for many years with no issues including last week.
Years ago I occasionally used their dry acid & ch increaser just fine (back when it was in a plastic jug).
Definitely steer clear of their solid & liquid chlorine products & their salt.
They used to have the 99 trichlor pucks that were plain 99% trichlor (no blue stuff or extras) which were fine if you needed them for vacay. I’ve not seen them lately though.