Yet another Hayward Aquarite No Flow thread...

[nyteowl]

Okay, I'm stumped. I've read all the other "No Flow" posts I could find, but nothing helped.

I'm running a Hayward SP3400VSP EcoStar Variable-Speed Pool Pump @ 3459 rpm seven hours daily.
My filter cartridge is clean, as are the skimmer basket and pump basket.
I'm also running a Polaris Vac-Sweep 360 Pressure Side Pool Cleaner.
My Aquarite unit is maybe 6 years old and I replaced the original Hayward T-15 cell with a Chlorinator Pro CP-15 cell last year.
The cell was cleaned in June and I can see water flowing through it.
Last nut not least, I installed a new flow switch two hours ago, making sure the arrow is pointing in the right direction, yet the No Flow light is still on all the time.

Here's what it looks like:



I've read that there needs to be 12" of pipe minimum between the Flow Switch and the Cell, but this was "professionally" installed by the store that sold me the Aquarite. I'm open to suggestions here, but can honestly say I'm getting tired of replacing failed components, not to mention having to buy chlorine because my SWG isn't working.

 

[pabeader]

I believe the reason for the 12" minimum is that the flow is very turbulent near the cell and needs to be smoother for the flow sensor to work correctly. Too close the elbows is a problem too.

 

[nyteowl]

Well, my unit is about 6 years old, and this wasn't a problem until recently, so the 12" requirement seems a little questionable.

 

[pabeader]

True that. Sorry I don't have more help. Maybe somebody else can weigh in here...

 

[JamesW]

Is there a "T" on the return that sends water up to the cell and also down?

Is the arrow pointing up?

 

[chiefwej]

Do you still have the old flow sensor? If you do you can run a test do see if it's in the control board or the sensor. The flow sensor is a simple switch. When it senses flow the switch is closed and when no flow it's an open circuit. If you have an old sensor or even the same phone plug that it uses with wires attached you can simply twist the ends of the wires together and you should see the no flow indicator start to flash, after one minute it should go out and the unit strat to generate. If not the problem is in the controller not the switch. DO NOT RUN THE UNIT WITH THIS SWITCH BYPASSED!
THIS IS FOR TESTING ONLY. YOU SHOULD NEVER RUN THE SWG WITH THE FLOW SWITCH BYPASSED......the flow switch is a safety feature and operation without it would be dangerous as it could cause an explosion.

 

[nyteowl]

I still have the old sensor, and yes, the arrow(s) on the new sensor point in the right direction. However, today I tried something different and believe I have sussed this out.

The No Flow light was still on this morning, so I shut everything down, pulled out the filter cartridge, and started everything up again. BINGO!! Light is off, the water level in the pump basket is higher than it has been in months, and the Polaris is moving faster, too.

The cartridge is less than 4 months old, so it wasn't really suspect. Although it does look clean on the outside, inside between the pleats there is a thin gray layer of dirt or whatever, which must have impeded the flow through the cartridge, and consequently everywhere else. So, a new cartridge is on the way which, hopefully, will resolve this issue.

 

[chiefwej]

Wow, that must have been some clogged cartridge. I think it only take 14 gpm flow to trip the flow switch.

 

[ping]

Does your pressure gauge on the filter work? If not, replace it. If it does work, then the filter needs to be cleaned when the pressure rises 25% over the clean pressure.

 

[JamesW]

Something does not make sense. The EcoStar running at 3450 rpm can exceed 160 gpm at 40 feet of head and it can exceed 50 gpm at 85 feet of head.

The cartridge almost surely would be crushed if it were that dirty.

I'm thinking that water must be bypassing the cell. It there a T that sends water down before the cell?

 

[nyteowl]

Pressure gauge works, so I'll check it after the new cartridge is installed and work from there.

Considering the above comment, and the fact that the cartridge does not appear to be that dirty, I believe James is right and the T shown in the picture below allows the water to bypass the filter altogether.

Something does not make sense. The EcoStar running at 3450 rpm can exceed 160 gpm at 40 feet of head and it can exceed 50 gpm at 85 feet of head.

The cartridge almost surely would be crushed if it were that dirty.

I'm thinking that water must be bypassing the cell. It there a T that sends water down before the cell?

Here's an older pic taken from a different angle, right after the pump was installed, and before the original Hayward T-Cell was replaced:



You can see a T just under the Hayward Control Panel. The valve underneath has always been open; that's the way it was when I bought the house, and since I had a pool service for the first two years, I left everything the way they left it.