Wiring Question

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launboy

launboy

0
Jun 15, 2008
582
S.E. Wisconsin
Wasn't sure if this whould be posted here or in the "Spa Use/Care" thread.

Just got a new(used) hot tub and I have some questions about the Spa Pack(pump and heater part).

The heater is a Pinnacle systems PE-40 A-L-G. It has a 120(1.375KW)/240(5.5kw) heater and I plan to run it on 120.

There are four wires coming out of the unit. Green/Yellow, Red, Blue, and White. I know the Green/Yellow is ground and am assuming the White is Neutral, am I correct? What I don't know is when using 120v do I use the Blue wire or the Red one?

Here's a pic of the wires.
PICT0140.jpg


The other question I have is about these two switches inside the unit. One is for 120 or 240v operation, and the other one just says R or D. What does R and D stand for/mean?

Here's a pic of the switches. They used to be at 240v and D when we got it, but I flipped both of them before taking the pic.
PICT0136.jpg


Also, does anyone know where I can find a manual or the companies website? All I can find are online retailers selling it.

Thanks,
Adam
 
I'm not sure on the wiring, but I think that the 120 volt setting is going to have a VERY hard time getting the tub warm. 1.4kw is only about 4700 BTU's per hour. That isn't much heat when you're trying to warm up hundreds of gallons of water. :(
 
Red and Blue are the hot lines for 240, you're right about the other two. Red will be hot, blue will either be tied in with neutral or hot but not sure which. The switch might be for timer vs. thermostat heating, but not sure...

You have to get pinnacle manuals from the distributor. They're not open on the weekend, but I'll give them a call on monday and try to get one emailed or faxed to me and send it your way.

Tim
 
Thanks! I know that the 1.4Kw heater won't put out a lot of heat, but the tub isn't that big and I'm not using the elec. heat by itself. I'm also heating it with solar panels. The elec. heat(at least for now, until it snows) is a supplement to get it the last few degrees, or to keep it warm during the night.

Also, thank you for possibly being able to get a manual. I'd really appreciate it! Does Pinnacle have a website?

Oh, another thing I thought of... The pump/heater is going to be about 30 ft. away from the hot tub but I'd like to keep the semi-digital control on the side of the spa. The control is a 120v unit and has a 6 pin plug on the end that connects to the heater part. Can I cut off the plug and conect the wire to outdoor approved wire and run that through conduit underground to the heater? Then reconnect the plug to the other end of the wire?

Thanks,
Adam
 
Check your pm's for the manual.

As for the control, yeah you can extend it. You'll have to extend the air tubing as well, so either run two conduits or a big enough one for a 6-conductor wire plus 2 1/8" ID tubes.

But the only function the wiring has is to control the temperature and there's no reason to control that from the tub because you can't change it fast enough. I'd consider leaving the control at the equipment, and instead of using the air buttons on the control, buy a separate pair of buttons to go by the tub. That way you're only running air tubing and there's no chance of voltage loss affecting the thermostat resistance.

Also, it's in the pm but for the sake of the viewing public in the future:

- L1 in the pack (blue) connects to hot, L2 (red) connects to neutral with N (white).
- The R/D button differentiates between 'R'egular spaside control with no temp display and 'D'igital spaside with a display.
 
Just one thing... For 120v operation, you have the wiring backwards. (Copy & Pasted out of the manual) : Use appropriate size wire nuts to connect the blue wire to line1, the white and red
wires to neutral, and the green wire to ground.

I'll probably just end up doing what you suggest with the control. The only thing is, there is a temp. sensing plastic bulb/tube thing) that comes from the spa-side control. I know this is what the control uses to for the thermostat so where would I put this? Can I cut this line and run it to the hot tub(about 30 ft.) or will this effect accuracy to much?

Also, where does the bulb actually go?

Thanks,
Adam
 

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Yeah, there are wet wells and dry ones. The wet ones have a small compression nut that tightens an o-ring around the bulb. The bulb needs to be snugly up against something that conducts the temperature of the water, and if any of it is exposed to the air it's a good idea to put some sort of insulation around the back end of it.

Another method would be to mount it onto the heater housing, but this will be less accurate and might even prevent it from getting to full temperature if the housing gets over 104 on the outside. I normally have the opposite problem (temp reading about 5-10 degrees lower than actual) with heater mounted probes, but those are on heaters that aren't enclosed in the pack.
 
On my unit, the heater tube is outside the pack. It's kind of half and half in the back, but it can be seen from the outside.

Is there any way to tell if the bulb is meant to be wet or dry mounted? The one on this control is made of grey plastic if that makes any difference. I'll probably go ahead and mount the bulb before the pump in a homemade Tee/well fitting where is will remain dry(unless it should be wet).

Also, not to get off topic, but in my other thread(launboy's Spa Build) I asked about an area where the paint(or what ever the inside coating is) coming off in a small spot. Can this be left alone, or does it need to be fixed ASAP? How would one go about this? Link to other thread: http://www.troublefreepool.com/launboy-s-spa-build-updated-w-pics-t9611.html

Thanks again,
Adam
 
I've seen the same bulbs used for wet and dry mounts, both plastic and stainless. You should be fine either way.

As for the hole in the acrylic, you probably won't lose any water through the existing fiberglass backing. If you want to address it, drill VERY small holes (1/16" deep) at the spots where cracks are spreading away from it, then patch it with bondo or a fiberglass patch, sand, and paint if you like.
 
Alright thanks. Hmmm. I'm not sure if I'll do anything about the acrylic. It doesn't really look like it's cracking so much as it looks like paint chipping off th side of the house. Will this get bigger if left untouched? At least I don't have any plumbing leaks. :mrgreen:

I don't know what I would have done without you. I'd still be trying to figure out how to wire the thing(and hoping I don't get zapped). :lol:

Thanks,
Adam
 
My pleasure. I'm happy to have found out what that R/D switch does. :-D

The cracking might continue or meddling hands and feet might pick at it and make it worse. Try it out for a few months and see how it goes. You can always patch it the next time you drain/refill.
 
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