Will this heat pump work on a 60A subpannel?

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Just thinking creatively here -- and someone please shoot me down if this is a stupid idea.

In my house, the gas meter is right by the electric panel. The gas line to my backyard runs straight from there. Do you know if your gas line to the heater is dedicated straight from the meter, and is your gas and electric meter next to each other? Just wondering if it's possible to re-purpose a gas line into an electrical conduit and pull a new circuit through it to avoid trenching.
 
scdaren said:
Just thinking creatively here -- and someone please shoot me down if this is a stupid idea.

In my house, the gas meter is right by the electric panel. The gas line to my backyard runs straight from there. Do you know if your gas line to the heater is dedicated straight from the meter, and is your gas and electric meter next to each other? Just wondering if it's possible to re-purpose a gas line into an electrical conduit and pull a new circuit through it to avoid trenching.
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I was actually wondering about this myself. I'm not sure if the gas line is 3/4 or 1in. Whatever is required for a 70-80ft run for a 200k btu heater. I think the main challenge would be getting the snake to the other side since there's not something currently in the line. Also, the tubing is some sort of plastic from what I understand so I'm not sure if it's as rigid as pvc.
 
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You might be able to go to a #3 AWG wire.

Depending on the 120 loads, you might be able to go to a #8 for the neutral and a #8 for the ground (equipment-grounding conductor (EGC)).

Pulling (2) #3 awg and (2) #8 might work for you if the electrician approves.
 
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The electrician just left and confirmed that the inside portion of wire is #6 Romex. The part in the conduit is #6 THHN. He said as it sits now, it should be on a 50A breaker because of the Romex. He suggested increasing the indoor portion of wire to #2 aluminum (some tricky bends in my basement) so the breaker could stay at 60A and have the ability to go up to 90 A if I ever decided to upgrade the outdoor portion of wire.

He said all of the aforementioned loads should be fine on the #6 wire but he would recommend making sure the booster pump and heat pump aren't on simultaneously (in only use the booster pump once a week and probably less now with the solar cover).
 
JamesW said:
What is the reason to choose aluminum over copper?

What is the total load on 120 volts?

What size did they recommend for the neutral and ground wire?
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He said because of all the bends going from my main to where it exits the house, he'd go with 2 guage aluminum instead of 4 gauge copper because it's more flexible. He recommended not trying to pull #4 through the conduit outside and just leave everything at #6.

Total running amps is about 48 at 230v.
 
I thought that you said that the wire in the subpanel looked like it matched #8 and not #6?

Why does the electrician think that replacing the wiring in the conduit would be too difficult?
 
JamesW said:
I thought that you said that the wire in the subpanel looked like it matched #8 and not #6?
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It turns out it was #6. He saw the text on the wire in various places and also confirmed just by looking at it's size. I've decided that I'm unwilling to abandon the gas heater so it's just a matter of whether it's worth it to supplement with the heat pump during the warmer months.
 

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