What do mean by this....my pool is newly filled about 2 weeks ago....and the pump has ran pretty much 24/7 since....????
Why does my water look DULL??
- Thread starter laweatherred
- Start date
What do mean by this....my pool is newly filled about 2 weeks ago....and the pump has ran pretty much 24/7 since....????
toadlife
0
laweatherred said:
Oops. I thought by "aerate" you meant run the pump. Not sure what would cause your test to vary that much overnight. :?:
Okay....thanks....here are results from just now...
Ph...7.8 (which I know is high aftering aerating all night)
TA....180 (that's better from 230, right???)
CH....?????? (I don't know if I'm just totally stupid or what, but I can't seem to get this test result to work.....I followed the extended test method even altering it for the "copper" portion (just incase).....AND STILL NO COLOR CHANGE!!!....and that was after atleast 150 drops of R-0012....just stopped at that point so that I would not use all of my reagent in one test....ALSO....their are white crusty(s) already on my salt cell....ugh.
PLEASE....WHAT NOW????
Oh and here are two pics of my pool water from just now.....may not look as bad as I think..
(this is a reapeat of info....because it seemed it kinda got off track)
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj6 ... 029ADA.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj6 ... 77B2B3.jpg
I don't know if I would really call that "cloudy" because you can easily still se the bottom....just not crystal clear like when first filled.
Someone please let me know what you think.....Thanks!!!
Ph...7.8 (which I know is high aftering aerating all night)
TA....180 (that's better from 230, right???)
CH....?????? (I don't know if I'm just totally stupid or what, but I can't seem to get this test result to work.....I followed the extended test method even altering it for the "copper" portion (just incase).....AND STILL NO COLOR CHANGE!!!....and that was after atleast 150 drops of R-0012....just stopped at that point so that I would not use all of my reagent in one test....ALSO....their are white crusty(s) already on my salt cell....ugh.
PLEASE....WHAT NOW????
Oh and here are two pics of my pool water from just now.....may not look as bad as I think..
(this is a reapeat of info....because it seemed it kinda got off track)
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj6 ... 029ADA.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj6 ... 77B2B3.jpg
I don't know if I would really call that "cloudy" because you can easily still se the bottom....just not crystal clear like when first filled.
Someone please let me know what you think.....Thanks!!!
Has everyone given up on me??? Still looking for some help with my CH test and dullness of my water. Still trying to get my Ph and TA down.
One thing I am also noticing is even with the salt in the water....the water still makes our skin feel horrible, dry, itchy, almost feels like its burning after we get out of the pool.....Could this also be a result of the high Calcium hardness??? Hope someone is still willing to help me???
One thing I am also noticing is even with the salt in the water....the water still makes our skin feel horrible, dry, itchy, almost feels like its burning after we get out of the pool.....Could this also be a result of the high Calcium hardness??? Hope someone is still willing to help me???
High pH could be why the water doesn't feel good. I don't see a CC number, but CC can do it too. Your cloudiness is most likely due to high pH and high CH. Get your pH in line and the cloudiness should clear, IMO.
Hey laweatherred, I don't think people have given up. Let's see if I can help.
I noticed earlier today you measured a CC or 1 ppm, that is typically a sign that the shocking process is needed. How sure are you of that reading?
I am not sure that high calcium levels can cause skin issues though I know when I shower and my soft water generator needs to regenerate, my water does feel different. Most common reasons is ph that is not in the recommended range, or CC present. See if there is still irritation when ph is down a little.
For the CH test, what color does the solution turn to after adding the R-0011L?
You could repeat the test using these quantities to save on reagents:
p.s. And go ahead and unplug the copper electrode, there is no risk, and you do not want to add copper to your pool.
I noticed earlier today you measured a CC or 1 ppm, that is typically a sign that the shocking process is needed. How sure are you of that reading?
I am not sure that high calcium levels can cause skin issues though I know when I shower and my soft water generator needs to regenerate, my water does feel different. Most common reasons is ph that is not in the recommended range, or CC present. See if there is still irritation when ph is down a little.
For the CH test, what color does the solution turn to after adding the R-0011L?
You could repeat the test using these quantities to save on reagents:
p.s. And go ahead and unplug the copper electrode, there is no risk, and you do not want to add copper to your pool.
Thanks RobbieH....my CC this morning was .5....didn't test again tonight as it got dark before I got home from sons baseball game. Biggest problem I have with getting the Ph down is that the closest place to by any type of acid is 30 miles away....will get more tomorrow hopefully!.....Tested tonight about 7.5...still have a ways to go.
Hi..linen....I knew people hadn't given up on me...and I'm sorry to be so slow at this. Anyway, as I just told RobbieH above..my CC was .5 this morning. After the R-0011L it turns a pinkish red, but the instant I start that R-0012 it turns clear and never turns anyother color....even when I stopped at 150 drops. I do know that our water in Levelland has always been super hard...and unfortunately we do not have a water softener.
And I did use this method...
Hi..linen....I knew people hadn't given up on me...and I'm sorry to be so slow at this. Anyway, as I just told RobbieH above..my CC was .5 this morning. After the R-0011L it turns a pinkish red, but the instant I start that R-0012 it turns clear and never turns anyother color....even when I stopped at 150 drops. I do know that our water in Levelland has always been super hard...and unfortunately we do not have a water softener.
And I did use this method...
.....and still used 150 drops of R0012 and it never changed but clear.
We have used that in years past.....would a "clairifier" help any??? Still trying to go lower with my Ph so that my TA will drop as well.....this morning it was 180 which was down from 230 last night.......will retest Ph in morning and maybe aerate tommorow to help with TA. Did you happen to see the pics of my pool....just blushish/green haze, but not "cloudy"....I can try the DE if you think it will help.
I wouldn't worry about appearance so much just two weeks after filling, the real test is more down the road...but, if you really care about appearance of the water, borates will make a noticeable difference later. And, as others have mentioned....the key items affecting water appearance is sustained FC/CYA ratio, how well and often you brush/vacuum pool, filter size/quality, how well water is circulating in pool - especially at surface, csi balance with high calcium levels, avg daily amount of water cycled by pump, and the quality/health of the plaster.
If you do have high PH and high calcium, that is something to take care of right away (especially with a SWG).....have you talked to other pool owners in your area to see what calcium levels they have? Can you get a reading just on your tap water that you used to fill the pool? You'll also not want high CH and TA at same time. Fyi, chlorine (FC) will not be that effective if ph is kept 7.8+.....you probably need to check and see how low you can get the pH while targeting slightly negative CSI (between 0 and -0.1). Water temperature impacts CSI so take that into account.
If you do have high PH and high calcium, that is something to take care of right away (especially with a SWG).....have you talked to other pool owners in your area to see what calcium levels they have? Can you get a reading just on your tap water that you used to fill the pool? You'll also not want high CH and TA at same time. Fyi, chlorine (FC) will not be that effective if ph is kept 7.8+.....you probably need to check and see how low you can get the pH while targeting slightly negative CSI (between 0 and -0.1). Water temperature impacts CSI so take that into account.
I honestly still think it could be organic. I would redo the onclt making sure to measure 1 hour after any chlorine added (shutting off swg). From rereading all post looks like you need to rereading pool school on shocking and lowering Ta. To lower ta add acid to get ph down to 7.0 the aerate to bring ph back the repeat until ta is in range
The CH test wont go clear - it'll change color. It starts red or pinkish and goes blue. Here is a write up from Taylor about it - it's a little wordy but there is a picture about 3/4 of the way down that may be helpful
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Chemi ... ntentID=70
The good news is your CH level sounds like it may be much more manageable
If a picture is worth a thousand words... what's a video worth? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmrY5tkTIDE
Ok...hello everyone....I am back!!!
Still working on getting Ph and TA regulated.....Have not been able to test for CYA as I ran out of R-0013....did order a refill from here but have not received it in the mail.....
Did have the pool store test for CH today since I have not been able to get an accurate reading they came up with 500...so not as bad as I thought...The water quality has felt much better since getting the Ph down.
Here are my results from today at dusk:
FC: 6...thinking this might be high but test done just right after SWG went off
CC: 0 (will retest at dawn tomorrow)
TA: 170
Ph: 7.6
CH: 500 (according to pool store)
Cya: ??? (unknown until I get my refill)
Adding dry acid and aerating this evening to help with TA....getting better though as it started at 230 a couple of days ago......
Does this process have to be done all at the same time? I ask this since a lot of my testing and maintenance is done after work and their just isn't enough daylight hours to be outside working on this.
Hope someone sees my newest post and can reply.....Thank you everyone for all the help up to this point!!
Still working on getting Ph and TA regulated.....Have not been able to test for CYA as I ran out of R-0013....did order a refill from here but have not received it in the mail.....
Did have the pool store test for CH today since I have not been able to get an accurate reading they came up with 500...so not as bad as I thought...The water quality has felt much better since getting the Ph down.
Here are my results from today at dusk:
FC: 6...thinking this might be high but test done just right after SWG went off
CC: 0 (will retest at dawn tomorrow)
TA: 170
Ph: 7.6
CH: 500 (according to pool store)
Cya: ??? (unknown until I get my refill)
Adding dry acid and aerating this evening to help with TA....getting better though as it started at 230 a couple of days ago......
Does this process have to be done all at the same time? I ask this since a lot of my testing and maintenance is done after work and their just isn't enough daylight hours to be outside working on this.
Hope someone sees my newest post and can reply.....Thank you everyone for all the help up to this point!!
The water is looking better I think or atleast according to my husband....(I think I look and mess with it so much that I can't see as much change..lol)....It does seem more clear and maybe only a dark blue but less greenish tint....still plan to unplug the copper element.....
As for the process of Ph/TA reduction....can I just work on it in the evenings since that's all the time I have???
I really don't think I'm having algae because since I've shocked for the first time and kept my SWG running, my FC has not dropped below 4.5....would I be right with that assumption or should I worry about it for now??
Also, I have not had time to brush and vacuum since Saturday....and where I live the wind and dirt blows not stop so I do have a little dirt in the bottom.....could that affect the appearance of the water???
As for the process of Ph/TA reduction....can I just work on it in the evenings since that's all the time I have???
I really don't think I'm having algae because since I've shocked for the first time and kept my SWG running, my FC has not dropped below 4.5....would I be right with that assumption or should I worry about it for now??
Also, I have not had time to brush and vacuum since Saturday....and where I live the wind and dirt blows not stop so I do have a little dirt in the bottom.....could that affect the appearance of the water???
If you pass the oclt tonight then you're done shocking and you just have to keep working on lowering your PH and TA. You don't have to do it all in one shot. It can take quite a while to achieve the desired results.
And the dirt.................well, we know how the dirt is around here.
And the dirt.................well, we know how the dirt is around here.
Sorry....one more thing... :blah:
With the 300 mph winds we had today...
I seemed to have a lot of evaporation....may have to add more water tomorrow...ugh....
Will this throw off everything that I am doing or I have achieved at this point???
With the 300 mph winds we had today...
I seemed to have a lot of evaporation....may have to add more water tomorrow...ugh....Will this throw off everything that I am doing or I have achieved at this point???