What would you work on next? I think Im close-ish?

[JenfromNC]

FC 9.5
CC 0.5
pH 7.5
TA 80
CH 100
CYA 60ish
Salt 3400

My interpretation (please please correct me if I have that wrong!!) and My questions
FC: My FC is a little high. The SWG was just installed last week and we are still figuring each other out. That needs turned down another step. It has been staying around 9. I will probably have to put the SWG back up as the weather heats up.

pH: pH always looks like 7.5 to me on this Taylor block test thingy

TA: this was staying at 100, but I did a few doses of the wrong kind of muriatic acid, and it came down to 80. My muriatic acid came from paint section at Lowes and is a mystery % and low fumes. I need to get something else. Is it worth trying to get that down 10 more points to target or should I just wait until pH actually needs lowered to dose acid again?

CH: We have the heater set, but won't be hooked to electric until Monday. I know the CH probably needs to be higher for the health of the heater. We have fiberglass. Our SWG is doing such a great job that I dont want to dump shock in to work on calcium. Is this a priority and how do I fix it?

CYA: Man, I dont even know. its somewhere between 40-60. If I do the test I read it between the 40 and 50 line. But when I compare to the standard, its gotta be 60 or better. Since Im not having chlorine issues, should I worry about this now?

Salt: The PB put in less then was indicated we needed, but it sits at 3400-3600 when I test. I guess its ok for it to be a bit high?


THANK YOU!!!

 

[Newdude]

It has been staying around 9. I will probably have to put the SWG back up as the weather heats up.

9 is a tad high, but also plenty of safety net if you choose to leave it there. You never want to be below target range. With an average FC loss of 2-4 ppm daily, it’s super easy to be below range, which cuts you oh so close to the minimum which sounds OK, But is SO not ok.

On the flip side, there is no harm on being a tad ‘hot’ if you overshoot. You will ‘waste’ a nominal amount of chlorine / SWG life but nothing that you’ll ever notice. Like, for example, if you lost 250 hours off your SWG. Holy COW that’s HUGe !!! Not over 10k hours it isn’t. You’ll never even know.

My muriatic acid came from paint section at Lowes and is a mystery % and low fumes. I need to get something else

It’s all good. Low fumes/Eco/green MA are just half strength. You’ll need twice as much but they are nicer to handle and at $13 a jug from HD/Lowe’s, it won’t break the bank. TA between 60 and 110 are fine (70-100 are GREAT) and will settle in where it wants to stay. You can drive yourself nuts trying to chase a specific #.

I know the CH probably needs to be higher for the health of the heater. We have fiberglass.

Add to get 100-150. It’s not terribly needed but will give you lots of wiggle room for rain to dilute it some.

CYA: Man, I dont even know. its somewhere between 40-60. If I do the test I read it between the 40 and 50 line. But when I compare to the standard, its gotta be 60 or better. Since Im not having chlorine issues, should I worry about this now

This one gets us ALL !!!! Lol. Just use the even 10 marks. The individual #s can’t be read anyway, even though they appear to be a 65, say. Fill to each 10, Check at an instant glance and go back a line once the dot is gone. If you stare for more than a quick instant the mind plays tricks. You will want a 70 soon being in NC as the longest day of the year is in a few days.

Salt: The PB put in less then was indicated we needed, but it sits at 3400-3600 when I test. I guess its ok for it to be a bit high?

As long as the cell is happy, you are happy. The cell will often disagree with more accurate testing but ultimately you’ll have to listen to the cell either way. So just listen to it from the get-go.

 

[AK-]

Your FC is fine. Target FC is just that a target where you should aim. Anything below the SLAM level is safe to swim.

The CYA test is a bit trick… make sure you use indirect sunlight and just fill to every 10th mark before quickly looking.

I also have a concern with CH myself as it is still slightly below what my heater manual recommends, but the truly important measure is CSI (you can track it on PoolMath).