WaterGuru Setup - New Owner

[joboo7777]

I have experienced the same problems on initial set up as SR56. I have already sent one unit back and cannot get the second one to connect to the wifi. I have a call in to them and dont expect to hear from them for 2-3 weeks like the first time I had problems.

What part of the process do you get hung up on?

 

[Bperry]

I am sorry about your negative experience with the WaterGuru but on the bright side (for me anyway) you just saved me a lot of time, money, and headache. We just installed a new pool and it's been a long time since we've had one so I don't remember much so I consider myself a newbie. My time is in short supply these days so I am looking for ways to minimize the chores and maximize enjoying the pool. Plus my eyes are no longer what they were and matching up colors is proving more difficult than in the past. I've been looking at the WaterGuru Sense, Sutro SmartMonitor, and Phin. I can't say that I'm sold on them. I was hoping that by now there would be "an app for that" that works i.e. analyses the water then tells me what and how much of each chemical to add and why. Any suggestions? I am thinking about the LaMotte 2056 ColorQ Pro 7 Digital Pool Water Test Kit but then I need a good chart to tell me what, why, and how much to add. I'll scour around here for a chart. Is there a better testing unit I should consider in the same price range?

The good part about the Taylor and TF-100 test kits is that there’s really no color comparisons except for the pH. FC changes from pink to clear. CH and TA change from one color to another color. And the CYA test is seeing the “dot” or not seeing it.

 

[Bears fan]

It won't connect to wifi. Says unit is not in pool

 

[ParB]

I'm about two weeks into my experience with Waterguru. The setup was fine (i am on android). I did not attempt to setup the pool on a PC first.
I tested vs. the taylor drip test several times over the past weeks for TA and FC (i also did PH but i generally rely on an apera probe that i calibrated just before testing).

I also adjusted PH down to aerate to reduce TA and i did several tests with Waterguru and both taylor color tests and apera to see if they agreed with each other as the PH dropped.

My findings has been pretty positive. I find that PH is spot on and apera and the waterguru generally agree with each other with very minor differences. That then is confirmed with a taylor color test. My range of PH tests has been PH values ranging from 7.0 to 8.0.

The FC has had errors in it. I've seen one test where the Waterguru agreed with the taylor tests for FC, but in all other cases waterguru has reported a FC which was 0.5 too high vs the taylor titration tests.

In general i can tolerate an error of 0.5 so i am okay with that for daily tests. for monthly test i'll continue with the Taylor kit from TFP testkits.
For the record... I haven't tested every day, but i have done about 6 A-B tests for PH and FC over the past 14 days.

I feel pretty confident in my waterguru system. I'm going to continue A-B testing over the next month at random intervals, but so far so good. I think i'm going to stick with it.

The lid was a bit tricky to get back on. I put it down on a flat surface and pushed carefully down the center to get it on, rounded part up. I think its so airtight that its air compressing that is making it hard to get back on. But i got it sorted with a bit of muscle.

 

[teecee2021]

I too am about 2 weeks into WaterGuru Sense. The ph has been pretty accurate--say within .2 actual readings. But the FC has been very reliably exactly 3ppm (+/- .5) LESS than the Taylor kit. Save for one single day where it was within .5ppm. Example, WG- 3ppm, FAS-DPD- 6ppm.

If this and the next cartridge can keep the same spread , or just a consistent spread, that is something I can work with. This device is really just to make sure the pool FC level doesnt crash without my knowledge.

I do have a working theory though: After scouring this site for other WG owners experiences, and adding to my own. It appears that the WG is more accurate the Less CYA in the water.(indeed, the ranges are setup precisely for such) As the CYA level increases, the more inaccurate the readings become. Just something Ive noticed. The WG folks would do well to gather some of the available data...but 2 weeks for a two way email exchange with their 'tech team' isnt going to help in that regard.

Im keeping it for the limited functionality it provides...but it could be much much better.

Cheers.

 

[ParB]

I too am about 2 weeks into WaterGuru Sense. The ph has been pretty accurate--say within .2 actual readings. But the FC has been very reliably exactly 3ppm (+/- .5) LESS than the Taylor kit. Save for one single day where it was within .5ppm. Example, WG- 3ppm, FAS-DPD- 6ppm.

If this and the next cartridge can keep the same spread , or just a consistent spread, that is something I can work with. This device is really just to make sure the pool FC level doesnt crash without my knowledge.

I do have a working theory though: After scouring this site for other WG owners experiences, and adding to my own. It appears that the WG is more accurate the Less CYA in the water.(indeed, the ranges are setup precisely for such) As the CYA level increases, the more inaccurate the readings become. Just something Ive noticed. The WG folks would do well to gather some of the available data...but 2 weeks for a two way email exchange with their 'tech team' isnt going to help in that regard.

Im keeping it for the limited functionality it provides...but I can be much much better.

Cheers.

Well put. I use it more to track changes than it's absolute readings. I'm mostly interested in unexpected and rapid changes in pH or FC. For the absolute readings I'll do the Taylor tests.

 

[Bperry]

Well put. I use it more to track changes than it's absolute readings. I'm mostly interested in unexpected and rapid changes in pH or FC. For the absolute readings I'll do the Taylor tests.

I’ve never seen a rapid change in pH or even in FC. Is there a known mechanism under which that could happen? (Maybe there is...) Unless I don’t test for a week or let the FC get too low, then the results can show a large change. If the data is unreliable, it would seem that relying on it for anything would be pointless.

 

[Dave68]

I've been using the Pool Math app that TFP has, and the recommended test kit. I'm colorblind, so I have to recruit my girl to help sometimes. I hadn't really used drop kits like that since I was a kid, but they do the job nicely.

Not sure about any of the automated stuff yet. I might try one of the others you mentioned to see if they're any closer to accurate. PH seems close to the test kit with it, but free chlorine is up and down and the test kit still showing a few ppm higher.

The sad part is the customer service absolutely sucks with WaterGuru. They don't answer the phone or emails. Looks like I'll have to dispute the charge to get their attention.

Thanks. I ended up ordering the TF-PRO test kit recommend here and put the Pool Math app on my phone. My logic here is that it keeps me apples to apples with the experience users here that can offer advice. This test kit somewhat mirrors the tests my pool supplier does. I really like the report they give me and the folks there seem genuine about helping. However, the report sure seems to sell me different product every time I go there.

 

[ParB]

I’ve never seen a rapid change in pH or even in FC. Is there a known mechanism under which that could happen? (Maybe there is...) Unless I don’t test for a week or let the FC get too low, then the results can show a large change. If the data is unreliable, it would seem that relying on it for anything would be pointless.

I'm honestly not sure if it does, I personally like the idea of having a log of changes that doesn't require much effort.

I'm trying to make that automatic so I only need to do anything manually at a frequency less often than weekly. Monthly would be great with me.