Wasn't expecting a pool?!

Yeah at the moment the elbow will have to suffer for the good of the pool , besides was removing some palm trees today, now that is s pain!

Hey I was inspecting the surface closely and noticed in a couple of spot in the pool some grey/ brown discolouration in a couple of spots , on the stairs and around a hole of the spa , I'm probably being pedantic but want catch anything going wrong before its too late. Not sure if it was there from the start and I'm just being critical.

Here is a pic of the spa hole where the bubbles come out
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More of a close up , could this have anything to do with my high alkalinity and of the acid I'm using to bring it down,

23418E2F-22C7-43D3-9100-82161981732C-121-000000055EBD95EC_zpsad3d5cfb.jpg


Feels a little rough where I run my fingers over it , just s bad patch of cement or something else,

Also some startup procedures recommend some kind of sequestrant , but I haven't used any

Thanks again
 
Haha I think I worrying too much , I've found 2x tiny little blemishes that don't seem to be getting worse , all in all very happy with the finish , and water chemistry is coming along great

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It's been 8 days now and I've switched to chlorinating with trichlor to gradually get te cya up at to 30-50, I've used the floater and added 1x3" puck which is holding my chlorine at 3ppm , I've attached the floater to a elastic cord and weighted it Down in front of a return line as I don't want it floating somewhere over the step and getting stuck there, I've turned te return jet facing up and it keeps the floater in one spot and assuming dispensing the chlorine the ought the pool

The pump is still running 24/7 , how long do I keep that up? I want to turn decrease the hrs but then the floater? Will it be ok?

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Cya level is currently 0 , just resurfaced the pool , I have a pack of 5x3" trichlor pucks , and since it only a 8k gallon pool , I figure I could use them to initially chlorinate and add cya , and then switch to bbb

A freshly resurfaced pool I thought needs the pump running 24/7 for the first week and then gradual reduction I hours?

- - - Updated - - -

Also not adding salt and swg is on std by for about 3-4 weeks , no?
 
Its ok , it is a bit of an epic thread , but I've learnt so much :)

So the floater without the pump running for a few hrs a day as I reduce the hrs should be ok? I wonder how much cya each puck adds?
 
Each puck if I remember correctly adds 2-3 ppm of CYA. I could be wrong. If you go to pool math and at the bottom of the page Affects Of Adding Chemicals, it will tell you. Just put in the weight of the puck. You don't need to run the pump 24/7 with the floater.
I'm not sure if you need to run the pump 24/7 since you just had a resurfacing. Somebody else could give more input on that.
 

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Yeah , not much dust at all as you can see from the pics it's been crystal clear from pretty much the second day, I do brush it twice daily , I'm going to start reducing the pump time as of tonight.

I'll use these 5 pucks and then test cya and add if it needs it and from then on liquid chlorine
 
Day 12 here brushing twice a day continues

2x trichlor tabs in floater

Just did a full test , except cya (too low to register)

Fc - 3.0
Cc-0.0
Tc-3.0
Ph- 7.4 using around 300ml of ma a day at this stage
TA 150 (down from around 200)
CH 200 holding steady from the start

I bought some edta but chose not to add any , I see no need , no streaks to staining so I'll give it a miss for now.

Happy Easter everyone from Aussie !

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well ok cya levels are up to 60 ... tried this with sun to my back at hip level, and in various locations pouring back in a and re-shaking, tried it in full sun , shade , seems pretty consistant.

added about a kilo according to pool calculator last week to give me 50ppm(the pucks where going to take too long) and have had 3-4 pucks dissolving which should account for the extra 10ppm

im might let whats left in the floater to dissolve to bump it up just a touch more , its been nearly 3 weeks.

in another week i add the salt , which reminds me i should look at the manual to see what the optimum is , and according to you guys add a bit extra 200-400ppm more

good so far?

Also raised the fc to 7 from 2ppm now that the cya is up to 60
 
Just read the swg manual , it's a Clearwater model

It has a reversing (self cleaning) polarity cell which swaps given a certain run time, and a too high or too low salt level light.

It states that the salt level should be between 4500-5500ppm ( lower in summer and higher in winter)

now if I aim for 5000ppm according to pool calc - that's 130kg or 289lbs of salt , woah that's a lot of salt!

Is this right? I hope salt isn't expensive?
 
Yeah they have this pool salt at the hardware store but have read to stay clear of it as it contains too many other minerals in it and could cause staining , I don't know, it doesn't state if its solar salt.

There is this other brand which is called "mermaids finest" it's a bit more but apparently washed twice and a lot purer.

On another note "hey get away from there! Stop contaminating my pool water"

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I give him fresh tap water in his bowl, but he prefers pool water ... Go figure !
 
Thanks! Yeah I'm really happy with it , and once my plans for the rest of the landscaping / seating is done it will be even better!

I've held of adding salt this weekend because of something that's concerned me with pool math and adding 5000 ppm salt

My current numbers are-

Fc 7
Cc 0
Ph 7.4
Ta 110 (gradually lowering it to 60-80)
Ch 220 (gradually increasing to a target of 300)
Cya 60

The weather is getting colder by the day (overnight water temps of 56f)

Current CSI according to pool math is -.36

By the mear fact of adding salt will be -.67

Add borates 50ppm -.69

If I increase the ph to 7.6 - 7.8 and bump the ch to 350 helps

But then the lowering of ta to 60-80 seems like I'm getting close to .-6 again.

Thoughts ? Remember its pretty fresh replaster
 

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