VSP dropping RPM

So are you measuring 11 amps on each leg? That is still only 11 amps total. You can measure on either leg and it is the same current you are measuring.
 
Did you actually measure the current? What kind of meter did you use?

A 20 amp breaker doesn't mean the load should be 20 amps. If dimensioned properly, the load should be much less than the breaker capability.
 
The pump motor is labeled at 10 amps.

I don't think that the pump is using more than that.

I think that it would fault to off if the amps exceeded 10 amps.

Does the pump display show watts (power usage)?

Check the manual, it shows how to read the power usage (watts).
 
Amp meter must be defective. Drawing 20 amps on a 20 amp breaker will trip breaker.
 
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turns out it was a programming issues. They had some setting wrong that was causing the issue in the OmniLogic. Everything is fixed except the heater doesn't have enough back preassure and they need to figure out how to increase that to keep the heater running without the slide turned on.
 

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turns out it was a programming issues. They had some setting wrong that was causing the issue in the OmniLogic.
I'm not sure that that makes any sense.

Did they explain what the exact issue was?

What heater do you have?

How much flow does the heater require and how much flow are you giving the heater?
 
On the VSP apparently there is a setting in the OmniLogic to use the flow switch, its not designed for the pumps and was causing an issue its more for the chlorinator. Once they set that off it was good to go.

On the Heater its a Hayward H150FDN. There are 4 returns in the pool plus the water slide. When the water slide valve is closed at the pump the LO alert goes on when the water slide is open + the returns the heater runs no problem. The Hayward rep said they will either need to change the eyeballs on the returns to smaller openings or close one of them.
 
Flow monitoring uses the flow switch in the SWG to detect a lack of flow so that the automation can shut off the pump if there's no flow. This protects the pump from running dry and getting damaged.

So, it still doesn't make sense. If the flow sensor was tripping to off, it could shut off power to the pump, but the pump would just shut off and not reduce and resume.

Maybe the flow switch is beginning to fail?

Check the flow indicator in diagnostics periodically to see if it's tripping off and on.

What speed are you running the pump where it's not closing the pressure switch?

Reducing the eyeballs might help if you're sure that the flow is good.

Maybe you just need to increase the pump speed.

Maybe the heater pressure switch is failing or needs to be adjusted.

If the heater is significantly above or below the pool, you might have to replace the pressure switch with an actual flow switch.
 
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