Verification on SWG install location and materials list

tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
2,236
Houston, TX
Hello to all.

Enclosed are some pics of the e-pad to determine where I can install a new SWG & flow switch. Trying to find the optimal place and produce a materials list.

Main Materials
SWG - we have 14-15K IG pool, so the 40K would be appropriate, yes?
  • What would be the best make/model for value, operation, reliability and replacement cells...We have ProLogic-8 automation.
  • Make/model Switch
  • Unions/O-rings
  • Other?
Pipe and other
  • Based on location, parts TBD

Pic 1, it's an overall pic of the e-pad on re-end of plumbing

Pic's 2&3 is after heater and has the ck-valve that I would have to move, or buy a new one bc the coupling installed is too close to valve so there would not be enough to reuse it. The total distance is 21.5" Since this run is attached to the outbound union of the heater, it allows for "moveable play" to fitting the pipe.

Pic 3 is where the "Puc-inator" is located. It's total distance is 15". but has 2 unions and little to no available pipe for unions

Thank you very much for your help and feedback. I will document everything on this install so it will be available for future use to others....best, tstex


Pic
 

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Thought you determined that a Hayward t cell 15 would plug into your ProLogic-8? Seems like a no brainer to me to use a t cell in this case.

If you buy just a t cell, then you would need two Hayward unions, one for each end.
And a hayward flow sensor. They sell both as parts. Flow sensor should have a little telephone looking jack on the end, to plug into your prologic.

Other than that, I think its standard plumbing stuff you would need.

Randy
 
Thank you very much Randy.

RE hayward cell, yes, plug in play seems to be the best route to do, since the automation is there and both plugs for the cell & flow switch are built into controller. My pool is around 14K w spa. The reason I am going w the T15 is bc many of the posters have recommended going 1.5 to 2 X's the size of pool. I like the logic to oversize bc a bigger cell I will not have to use as much and it lasts longer, all else being equal. Like running an Inteliflo 3HP on 1100rpm 7x24...works it less and uses less electricity.

FInally, yes, I have 2" plumbing, but was inquiring on suggestions for the placement of the cell and f-switch? I know the 12" rule of straight pipe b4 or after f-switch. As posted too by others, they recommended keeping the puck feeder. This is how I introduce CYA to pool and get a break from adding bleach for X days. W the SWCG, I will not have to worry about the latter as much, but it could be of benefit for supplemental feeding of CL. I know the recommended CYA is 60-70 w salt, so I will have to bump up my 30-50 current range. Anyway, just looking for an optimal place to install, clean and service the cell and f-switch.

Thanks again !
 
If you are intent on keeping the puck feeder, you should keep the check valve. So heater, SWG, check valve and lastly puck feeder. The check valve is to prevent any backflow from the puck feeder from getting to the heater and SWG when the pump is off.

If it were me, I would remove the puck feeder, placing a straight pipe there and install the SWG and flow switch in the line where the check valve is. In this case, you don't need the check valve. And pick up a floater to toss tabs in when you want to add a little CYA. Eventually that puck feeder will start leaking.
 
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Reactions: Mdragger88
Thank you Gene...And yes, a puck feeder only works when pump is going...a floater works anytime.

Thanks, I am cognizant of no chem backflow to heater exchanges. W the cell, it's only producing when flowing so the ck valve is not as critical...the pucks continue to dissolve, esp in warmer waters, so yes...my pool water temp is 86 low and 94-96 w this horrible heat....it has to get better soon...friend of mine had an 81,000 gal water bill at $628.00 it's going to be worse this month...
 
FYI, with a variable speed pump, the wiki here recommends a vertical install
I installed it horizontal, didn't read that part of the wiki before installing. But vertical would have been hard for me, didn't want it sticking way up in the air.

EDIT: Just saw that its actually hydrogen gas that can build up in the cell.
I have it upside down now, running pump at 1200 rpm and seems to be fine so far. This is all to keep the hydrogen gas from building up in the cell with relatively low flow.

Agree with oversizing, I have a T-15 for my pool. I'm running it at 75% for 9 hours, seems to be about right. May need to tweak the percentage a little but really close now.
 
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Thanks Randy.

Are you stating that if we have a VSP, the cell should be installed vertically? Since researching SWCG’s, i have not read anything about hydrogen gases building up in the cell. If so, w a vertical install, the gas would rise out & float to top. I would prefer a horizontal install which is easier on my equip pad.
 
The wiki says this is from Hayward:
When using a variable speed pump it is recommended that the cell be plumbed in vertical position. By doing this the cell will fill even when the pump is running in a lower speed. If the cell is plumbed horizontally, and the pump is running in low speed, the cell will not fill completely with water, and cause it to read a false low reading.

I do see little bubbles coming out of my returns when the cell is running.
Horizontal upside down seems to work, but I've only had it for a couple weeks now.
 
If you are concerned about hydrogen and chlorine gas building up in the cell, install the cell with the hump down. This will help any gases to not build up in the cell when the VSP is running at low rpm. No need to install the cell vertically.

After installation, determine the minimum rpm that will close the flow switch. Be sure your filter is clean before doing this. Then add about 100-200 rpm to that minimum number to account for the filter getting dirty and having less flow. Some will be able to close the flow switch at ~1000 rpm, others may need 1500 rpm or higher. Every pool and its plumbimg is different.
 
Thanks again Randy & Gene.

I have 2 Ck valves too, so my flow is prob going to be impaired more…w the hairnets. I keep my filter pretty clean and always running in the green.

Great to know about installing cell w hump down to minimize the gas displacement of water w in cell. Makes sense.

Are there any hints on installation of cell to make maintenance of any kind easier?

Thanks again
 

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