Upgrading Aqualink RS6 to IAqualink 2.0-RS

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H

Hotlanta595

0
May 30, 2018
5
Milton, GA
First let me say that I've leaned a lot about pool maintenance from TFP and finally made it through last year without one outbreak of dreaded yellow algae!

My Aqualink controller stopped communicating with my indoor control panel--probably due to a power surge. Even though the surge protector light is on, I doubt it still works. Another item to replace.

I decided I might as well upgrade to the iAqualink and I watched a video of someone upgrading their board. It looked very simple--all plug and play. I ordered the upgrade Aqualink 2.0-RS after confirming compatibility. I turned off the power and pulled the old PCB out. I am seeing a couple of things that weren't in the first video. I did find another set of video's of a guy upgrading a system which was more in depth. I have a small board attached on the left side with a small bar screwed over the square area of the bezel. I also have a 4 pin connector attached to the red 4-pin "receiver" on the upper left of the board. I am a rabid DIY girl but am not well versed in electronics so please forgive my lame terminology... I'm not quite sure what these are. I think the 4 pin connection may be the indoor panel and/or the Spa side control. Got that from the last video I watched. If correct, the guy said it didn't matter which 4 pin connector was used. The wireless unit would connect to the remaining red 4-pin "receiver". My PCB also has a black 6-pin connector which I think is the Spa side control so the 4-pin may just be the indoor panel??

Can anyone tell me what the small board on the left is in pic? Is the 4-pin red connector actually the indoor panel connection? Do I need it since the upgrade will not operate it? I thought the second 4-pin connector on new PCB was for variable speed pumps. I don't want to blow the new board so thought I'd ask for advice before continuing.

Small Board on Left of PCB.JPG
 
Yes, the 6-pin black connector is your spa side remote.

The 4-pin reddish connector (green/yellow/brown/red) is for communications from various devices to your control board. I can't make out the side board from this angle. Either provide a pic of the device side of the board, or hopefully someone else here knows right off what it is.

Just for reference, I currently have 5 devices going into my 4-pin connectors on the RS control board: 2 Variable Speed pumps, a wired OneTouch control panel (in the house), the Aquapure 1400 SWCG, and the iAqualink. So yes, it's possible, even probable, that the 4-pin is connected to your panel inside the house. But you could also have more than just the indoor panel coming into that connector.

If you have multiple items, Jandy sells this overpriced multi-plex board, linked below. It doesn't look like that's what your side board is, especially if it is handling the 6-pin spa-side buttons as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Zodiac-6584-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B008E6ST5K
 
Hotlanta595 said:
My Aqualink controller stopped communicating with my indoor control panel--probably due to a power surge. Even though the surge protector light is on, I doubt it still works. Another item to replace.
Click to expand...

By the way, it's really common to have any of those 4 colored comm wires come loose at the Aqualink control board and thus stop communication from the indoor panel. When you are in there taking pics (with power off), you could slightly tug on the green/yellow/brown/red wires on both the small card and the main RS control board. If one comes all the way out, just re-seat it. A small screwdriver is needed to tighten the wire clamp back in place.
 
That makes perfect sense. The pool/spa was installed in 1997 and the board blew the next year or two so the surge protection was added. I didn't realize there were additional parts beyond the surge protector on the circuit box, but I see the Jbox described in the 7028 installation manual.

I get a lot of power blips (power goes off and comes right back on). I had my service checked by the electric company and no problems were found. They said that the blips are most likely caused by a tree limb touching a line in my area. While the indoor control has been out of service, the blips have "reset" the programming on the PCB chip a few times. Does the 7028 board need to be replaced as well as the surge protector? I don't want to be buying another expensive PCB any time soon.

Also, thanks for the connection advice. I'll be sure to check all wires when I'm done with switching out the new PCB.
 
I'm sorry to say that I don't know anything about the surge protector electronics, or how to tell if the 7029 board is bad. Does your spa-side remote still operate? If yes, then that would tell me that the small card is generally okay, at least for the lines that go to the black 6-pin.

I hope someone with better surge protector knowledge will pipe in here for you.
 
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