Trying to understand my results..

[idontswim]

Hello, I'm trying to understand my results from the block.. The color seems so much darker and brighter than the highest on the key. Does that coincide with the results of the drops? I assume it does but seems really dark/high on the daily test vs the weekly test.

Out of the results below I interpret them as you see to the right of it. I will just add what's recommended for each from the calculator.
- - -
10/26/2024 - 11AM EST, 84F
Free Chlorine = 30 ppm (currently high)
Combined Chloramines = 0
Total Chlorine = FC+CC
Calcium Hardness = 125 ppm (low)
Total Alkalinity = 120 (currently high)
CYA = 80 (currently high)
pH = 7.6
Cl Br = 10+ (?)
Temp = 80F

Thank you

 

[PoolStored]

You don't have any information about your pool in your signature. If you fill it out, that would help us.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You don't need to use the block to test chlorine. Use the FAS-DPD FC drop test to test FC.
If you have a SWG, turn it off. Allow FC to come down.
You don't need calcium in a vinyl pool. If you have a GAS heater, then raise CH to 200.
Noting to do about TA or CYA.
Manage pH, and TA will take care of itself.
CYA will degrade over time.

 

[idontswim]

You don't have any information about your pool in your signature. If you fill it out, that would help us.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You don't need to use the block to test chlorine. Use the FAS-DPD FC drop test to test FC.
If you have a SWG, turn it off. Allow FC to come down.
You don't need calcium in a vinyl pool. If you have a GAS heater, then raise CH to 200.
Noting to do about TA or CYA.
Manage pH, and TA will take care of itself.
CYA will degrade over time.

Thanks, information has been updated.

 

[Mdragger88]

Your fc is currently right around slam fc level for your cya which is ok but doesn’t need to go higher.
That fc level is not necessary unless there’s a problem (algae) or you are about to close the pool. How did the fc get so high?
Also the ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm so disregard.

 

[idontswim]

Your fc is currently right around slam fc level for your cya which is ok but doesn’t need to go higher.
That fc level is not necessary unless there’s a problem (algae) or you are about to close the pool. How did the fc get so high?
Also the ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm so disregard.
View attachment 616018

Thank you, I understand now why the Cl test looks so insanely dark. Also the pool should never closed, we live in very far south Miami Florida. Im closer to the keys than I am Miami Beach. I hope to find a heater solution for the few cold months this coming winter season. It’s been up for 5 months now. I wasn’t aware of TFP and was using Clorox Shock and 1” pucks and overdoing both. 4 pucks every 7-10 days which is basically at all times (2oz since each puck is .5oz). Also after a few rainy days I was adding half a bag of shock. A total of 2 packs over 3 months and it’s only 1250G, but is always uncovered and under a giant almond tree so leaves fall in daily. I need to do some work on the pump as it has a slow leak. So I think I’ll just drain some and replace the water since I’m not longer adding any chemicals with CYA. Should make balancing levels easier or I can just wait it out. Thanks.

 

[pjt]

I'm trying to understand my results from the block.

Cl Br = 10+ (?)

The vast majority of the time, you'll use the block for the pH test only. For chlorine, use the FAS-DPD (powder and drops). The block chlorine test (OTO) is really only useful to know if there's chlorine in the water or not.

Free Chlorine = 30 ppm

pH = 7.6

I'm assuming this was from your FAS-DPD test. Remember pH is invalid (false high) if the FC is above 10.

I will just add what's recommended for each from the calculator.

PoolMath is just a calculator, nothing more. If given a target, it will tell you how to achieve it. Don't blindly follow its output.

TF-100 Kit

Do you have a SpeedStir?

How are you chlorinating?

 

[idontswim]

The vast majority of the time, you'll use the block for the pH test only. For chlorine, use the FAS-DPD (powder and drops). The block chlorine test (OTO) is really only useful to know if there's chlorine in the water or not.



I'm assuming this was from your FAS-DPD test. Remember pH is invalid (false high) if the FC is above 10.


PoolMath is just a calculator, nothing more. If given a target, it will tell you how to achieve it. Don't blindly follow its output.


Do you have a SpeedStir?

How are you chlorinating?

Thanks. Got it. I did not remember about the FC 10 invalidates pH. Yes those results are from the FAS-DPD, but after I finished I did the block as well just to see. Should I adjust any targets on PoolMath for my pool type and size? Or do I just take into account things like I’m currently in a SLAM range so no need to touch anything? I’m trying to keep it simple and stable. Honestly such a small pool it’s really not difficult to drain and add. I replied to the why the levels got so high and how I was chlorinating up until now right before you replied I will add I haven’t added anything in 2 weeks. I figured I would need chlorine so I’m ready with liquid but I’m running a little hot. Thanks again