Hello, I have a pool that is nearly 22 months old. The control panel for the Jandy TruClear 11P is reading "CHECK CELL" on the display. I've cleaned it 3 times over the time I've had it. There is no build up on the cell plates. Wondering if anyone has any troubleshooting tips, or if I should open up the panel to see if there is any thing to check inside or a way to reset it. There is no chlorine in the water currently. Question: Will no chlorine in the pool for a while cause the SWG cell to fail?
TruClear "CHECK CELL"
- Thread starter Revh
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,382
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
No, but no chlorine in the pool will allow algae to take hold in your water. Find some type of chlorine to add to it, preferable liquid chlorine, until you get your SWG fixed. Follow the non-SWG FC/CYA Levels for FC level for your CYA.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,824
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Rev,
Welcome aboard!
You've come to just the right place. James and Allen will help you have your issue solved soon. In the meantime you may want to consider using TFP methods. It works great with salt pools and is very easy/cheap. Thousands use it. Start by reading Pool School to the left and order a recommended test kit. Pool store "free tests" don't work for us. You'll also want a salt test kit to get started (Taylor k=1766)... did I mention we don't sell anything? This assures you you're getting great expert volunteer advice not biased with any desire to sell something.
Either way you go, we'll always be here to help.
Good luck!
Chris
Welcome aboard!
You've come to just the right place. James and Allen will help you have your issue solved soon. In the meantime you may want to consider using TFP methods. It works great with salt pools and is very easy/cheap. Thousands use it. Start by reading Pool School to the left and order a recommended test kit. Pool store "free tests" don't work for us. You'll also want a salt test kit to get started (Taylor k=1766)... did I mention we don't sell anything? This assures you you're getting great expert volunteer advice not biased with any desire to sell something.
Either way you go, we'll always be here to help.
Good luck!
Chris
I forgot to mention that the Troubleshooting Guide has two answers to the display "CHECK CELL",
1) Reason: Cell Overload. -Description: When the system is running within a valid chlorination window and detects a cell short circuit or overload. Designed to warn the user or service person. Output is OFF.
2) Reason: Cell Open Circuit. -Description:
When the system is running within a valid
chlorination window and detects a cell open circuit
or disconnection. Designed to warn the user or
service person. Output is off but retries each 30
seconds.
1) Reason: Cell Overload. -Description: When the system is running within a valid chlorination window and detects a cell short circuit or overload. Designed to warn the user or service person. Output is OFF.
2) Reason: Cell Open Circuit. -Description:
When the system is running within a valid
chlorination window and detects a cell open circuit
or disconnection. Designed to warn the user or
service person. Output is off but retries each 30
seconds.
I would just file a warranty claim and let them deal with it.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,824
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
The True Clear unit produces less than a pound a day which is one of the lowest there is for a unit "sized" for 35,000 gal. So I'd definitely get it replaced under warranty. At least you'll get a little better life out of it.
Thanks, guys, for the advice.
BTW: Would I call the contractor who installed the pool or the Jandy corporation?
BTW: Would I call the contractor who installed the pool or the Jandy corporation?
One thing that you can do is disconnect the power cord from the power supply and check the resistance from one power leg going to the cell to the other.
If there's a short or an open, it should show on the ohms as O.L (Open Line or Over Limit) or 0 ohms for a short.
One of the power wires goes to the center plate and the other power wire goes to the two outer plates.
The current flows from plate to plate through the saltwater.
So, you should get some finite number of ohms, but not 0 as long as the cell is full of salt water.
If you just want to file a warranty claim, you can do it with the builder or directly with Jandy if you don't want the builder to do it.
If there's a short or an open, it should show on the ohms as O.L (Open Line or Over Limit) or 0 ohms for a short.
One of the power wires goes to the center plate and the other power wire goes to the two outer plates.
The current flows from plate to plate through the saltwater.
So, you should get some finite number of ohms, but not 0 as long as the cell is full of salt water.
If you just want to file a warranty claim, you can do it with the builder or directly with Jandy if you don't want the builder to do it.
Excellent. Thank you! I have an electrical meter. I will check it out of curiosity. Either way, I'll call the pool contractor to file a claim.
I recently ran into the same ‘Check Cell’ issue with my Jandy Truclear system. I’m curious how you were able to get this resolved. Did you have to replace the cell? I’ve only had my pool for 8 months. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
I had a TruClear installed a month ago, and it's been working great. But I checked my FC today and it had dropped from 6.2 ppm four days ago to 2.0 ppm today. I went into iAquaLink to go to boost mode, assuming that maybe the hot weather had finally overcome my puny TruClear, and found that I had a "check cell" error. Thank goodness I still have liquid chlorine (and trichlor tabs as backup). I called Pinch-A-Penny, but their service guy isn't in until tomorrow. We'll see how this works out...
I resolved my problem this morning. About the same time my cell shut off and started reporting "Check cell", I had noticed some air in the system, but didn't put two and two together until today, so I opened the air valve on top of the filter and bled off the air. Apparently, the air in the cell had exposed the tops of the cell plates, resulting in the error. Now the plates are submerged completely and I've turned the cell back on. It is working normally now. Next step: figure out where the air is coming from...