Travertine Deck and Coping

Hey_Zeus

Well-known member
Mar 8, 2017
51
Orlando
#1
We just passed Under ground electric and pumbing, so we can move onto grading, and decking!

We picked a Tumbled Travertine coping and deck, it looks awesome in the crates! I have a few questions I hope ya'll can help out with.

We are going to be installing about 120 Linear Ft of Leonardio Bullnose Coping and about a 1100 sq ft deck Ivory Travertine.

I saw on another post about using a sealer on the bond beam of the concrete. I haven't come across that anywhere in looking into how to install Travertine coping. Anyone have experience with a travertine coping installation?

Also, I have read a lot about using Flexbong mortar at 1inch thick. Sound about right?

What is the spacing between coping pieces? 1/4 or 1/5 inch?

What is the overhang you have? We were thinking 1 - 1.5 inches....?

Travertine Mart: How to install travertine patio pavers

Here is what the coping looks like with a piece of the deck next to it. Base rocks and sand going in this week, coping done by the weekend.



 

pushin glass

Bronze Supporter
Jun 16, 2016
117
East Central MS
#2
Really nice looking stone and tile.

My coping is Indiana limestone drawn on CAD software and spec'd by an architectural stone company that does this often and they suggested a damp course under the stone (which we did not do) and 1-7/8" overhang (which we did do). This makes our overhang nearly two inches but it looks fantastic. With that in mind, I'd suggest at least 1.5" overhang.

I'd consider sealing the travertine as well.

Natural Stone Treatment WB Plus
 
OP
OP
Hey_Zeus

Hey_Zeus

Well-known member
Mar 8, 2017
51
Orlando
#3
Really nice looking stone and tile.

My coping is Indiana limestone drawn on CAD software and spec'd by an architectural stone company that does this often and they suggested a damp course under the stone (which we did not do) and 1-7/8" overhang (which we did do). This makes our overhang nearly two inches but it looks fantastic. With that in mind, I'd suggest at least 1.5" overhang.

I'd consider sealing the travertine as well.

Natural Stone Treatment WB Plus

We will definitely seal the stone, that's a no brainer.

What do yo mean by "damp course under the stone" and why did you elect to not do it?
 

pushin glass

Bronze Supporter
Jun 16, 2016
117
East Central MS
#4
A damp course is an impermeable barrier underneath masonry that prevents water from passing through the masonry from beneath via capillary action (so-called rising damp). It is typically placed at the bottom courses of masonry in a house to prevent water from rising up and causing mold and mildew problems in the house. We elected not to do it because we thought it would be too hard to prevent water from entering the stone from beneath from pool splash, et cetera, and since our pool water would have a pH closer to the stone and have appropriate bicarbonate and calcium levels, we would just be paying the mason more money for little if any gain. The main damage to the stone will be from above (acidic rainwater and salt attack). They spec the damp course primarily for liability purposes.

Check out the second picture to see a damp course installed: Damp Proof Course Twin Pack

Does the quarry provide any installation specs? Our architectural stone firm recommended normal type N white mortar with a setting bed of 1"-1.5". When the stone is placed on top it typically compresses the mortar to somewhere between 0.5"-1". White mortar was recommended as it has no added coloration which can stain the stone. Also, our mortar joints were spec'd to 3/8" which our mason followed. This was important because ours were cut precisely to fit.

As a bit of history, when structures were purely masonry and not stick frame with masonry veneer, rising damp was a common issue and used to stain the plaster inside the building near the floors. This is why wainscoting was created. They would panel the lower portion of the wall with a rot-resistant wood to prevent the damage and unsightly discoloration from the rising damp.