Tork 1104BM Timer

[snj2k2se]

My old 220v tork timer of 20 years recently stopped working. I replaced it with the current version 1104B-IAP and wired it exactly the same way the old on came out (moved one wire at a time from the old to the new).

The new time only seems to keep time when the pump is running. If I turn the dial and turn the pump on, it will run for 9 hours until it hits the "Off" timer, trip the timer then doesn't move.
I have searched everywhere to see if I wired something wrong, but can't see where I did. What am I missing?

 

[Arizonarob]

Sounds like you have the hot feed going through the pump relay that’s then feeding the timer motor. Post a pic of your old setup, and new setup. Tork may have switched the wiring around in the new timer.

 

[Hootz]

The line connections are straight from the breaker panel...these are the 2 lugs on the left as you are standing in front. These lugs will be powered whenever the breaker is on (and run the clock). The 2 lugs on the right are the load connections...these supply power when the timer is on and cut power when the timer is off. I suspect the wiring is reversed between the line and load lugs.

(edit to load connections on the right)

 

[snj2k2se]

I didn’t take a before picture. I’ll grab a picture when the rain stops if the current wiring. I have the hot going to the right of the two hot lugs. I saw pictures of jumper wires going between the two hot lugs, maybe I need to do that? The lugs on the old and new were labeled the same.

 

[Hootz]

No jumpers are required...please be careful. Here is a video to explain. Tork 1104 wiring

 

[snj2k2se]

Sorry it took so long for the pictures. Watched the video posted above, and did some Google search. I think I need to take the hot wire off the 1 terminal and move it to the L?

 

[Hootz]

That is not wired for 220...is your pump 120 volts?

 

[snj2k2se]

I was told it’s 220, but I had an electrician friend look at the picture and he said it looks like it’s wired for 120 too. Looking at the motor it can be either? I had a local pool company replace the pump 3 years ago. The old pump was a 220, I assumed it was replaced with the same.

 

[Hootz]

The blue wire connected to the timer is sourced from one side of a 220 breaker. That is not proper and will not meet code. You really need an electrician to wire this properly. Do not continue to use the pump as wired....it could be dangerous. You have a 220 breaker and the motor is capable of 220 operation. The pump will be more efficient if it runs at 220.

 

[snj2k2se]

I wanted to circle back and let you know how this turned out.
The way the it was wired, there was always 110 going to the pump, even with the timer was off.
I had an electrician come out after my pool guy refused to touch it (pool company installed the current pump, I assumed they could fix it).
Both the electrician and pool guy were amazed I didn't constantly burn up pumps. In the end, the box has been re-wired and working as expected.