TF-Pro Salt

8 Gallons is 36 ppm in 22k Gallons if using 10%. Double check your poolmath. More isn't better here.

The SWG gets turned off and you'll replenish to 24 as often as needed, no more than every 2 hours.
 
Circle back to this when the slam is done so we can spend time on the nitty gritty of it. Tag me or poolstored and ask for the full rundown. For now, click the circle toggle thingie next to the word SLAM. Slam target is 40% of your cya, so 24 FC.

There's no time like the present to start, if you have the supplies on hand. If not, bump the FC free and clear above min and it won't get worse until you have the time/supplies.

Read the blue slam link I posted above. Print it out do you can have it with you.
Ok does this look right how I did it? 5 gallons then should do it?

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Good to know... Perhaps only test a couple of times a year?

Right now my SWG reads higher (around 3200) than what the salt test gives me (2800). Any thoughts on why that would be? I'm not too worried (or should I be?) as I understand it we want enough salt for the SWG to do it's job but the actual level is not too critical after that... +/- a few hundred around 3000 doesn't seem like it should make much of a difference.
Test whenever changes occur- like a deluge of rain or water replacement. I probably test salt a handful of times per season. Monthly is a good rule of thumb.

The reading difference is common -
as I was referring to before, as the cell ages the unit will often measure less & less salt. Most new aquarites (and many others) will read higher than actual salinity.
One common hallmark of a failing cell is throwing the low salt light even though the actual salinity is sufficient, thus the need to know the actual salinity.
The two numbers (actual & displayed) may never match - thats ok..
you just keep things in range to keep the cell happy to a point. If things are way off you know you have an issue.
 
did I screw up?
It's cosmetic. The powder stains the vial so they labeled one to get dirty while the others stay clean. We're a bit extra being 'enthusiasts'. :ROFLMAO:

Alcohol usually cleans any staining so its pretty again. My tests have never been off to care about cleaning the vial, but that would be the first thing I did if I ever got wonky results.
 
Ok I have done more testing and I am going to hold off on the SLAM. I think I may now see what my problem is. I think I need to run my pump 24/7. I did last night and my levels seemed to hold and I even had my SWG off. I am going to keep testing and also run 24/7 and see how this goes. I appreciate everyones feedback!

Right now my FC is 2.5 and CC is 0.5.
 

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You are below min FC for your 60 CYA and have been for some time, and you barely passed the OCLT. It would be wise to insurance slam because no matter how sucky that is, it could suck exponentially worse soon.

And anytime you see the FC needs a *right now* boost, like right now, dose with LC and pour several extra glugs just to be sure. Then let the SWG take over maintaining it. You make about 11ppm per 24 hours so it takes too long to raise significantly with the SWG. It's less of a deal in the extended season but we are all playing for keeps soon with peak UV loss.
 
You should always follow this. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Always make sure you are at the top end of the range for your CYA when you test.
Ok, I wanted to see if these might climb on their own with running the pool now 24/7. Do you think that is possible w/o slamming?
 
Ok, I wanted to see if these might climb on their own with running the pool now 24/7. Do you think that is possible w/o slamming?
You might be able to raise your FC running 24/7, depends on the size of the cell and the size of your pool. What cell do you have?
Climbing FC is not the objective. Confirming and eliminating algae should be the objective.
Do a proper OCLT. If you fail, you SLAM. You cannot SLAM using the cell.
 
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You might be able to raise your FC running 24/7, depends on the size of the cell and the size of your pool. What cell do you have?
Climbing FC is not the objective. Confirming and eliminating algae should be the objective.
Do a proper OCLT. If you fail, you SLAM. You cannot SLAM using the cell.
I have the Intellichlor ic40 model.
 
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You should always follow this. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Always make sure you are at the top end of the range for your CYA when you test.
I went to my pool store today and they have the digital salt tester. It read my salt level around 3400. When I use the test in this kit it reads about 2800-3000. Which is more accurate? The Salt Cell on my Pentair pool app says it is 3450. Which do I go by?
 
Your drop test is more accurate.
You want to make your salt cell happy. If it is in range, the 3000 on your test results in 3450 at the cell, then keep your salt at 3000 on your drop test.
 

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