TF-100 is In! - Help on Fill Water Test

[stack24]

Hi everyone,

So my test kit is in and I went and grabbed some water from my water softener bypass bib because we are going to be filling the pool with this water when the time comes. The auto fill will also be on the hard water tapped into the irrigation system.

So I did the calcium test, AK test, the visiaul PH CL test and then the FC test and I had some questions.

CH - 1st time 125 second time 150 ( I think I might have missed a drop the first time)
AK - 130
Visual PH - 8.2 or possibly higher?
Visual CL - 5+ I am guessing

Here is where I ran into a question. I was trying to do the FC test and I was up to about 16 drops or so and it went clear and stayed that way for a decent amount of time. I went to grab something and come back after about 10 seconds or so and it slowly went back to pink. I put some more drops and it went clear and again if you leave it for a decent amount of time spinning like 20 seconds or so it starts going back to pink. Is that normal or should I keep going with the drops till it just never comes back to pink and stays clear? The reason I ask is I kept going higher and higher in the drops and it would go clear for a good while but if left stirring right back to a light pink after a good while.

Am I doing something wrong? Should I let the water sit a bit since it was coming out of a bib to test the PH etc again with the visual thing?

 

[Texas Splash]

Ignore the FC test going back to pink. If you let it sit it will always do that. Once it goes clear, that's your FC number. If you aren't doing the CC test, just toss it away. While it's good to know what your fill source levels are, post back with a full set from the pool after it's full and you let the water mix for about 45 min or so. That's when we can really get specific on the pool. Remember new water has no CYA in it, so as so as the water starts moving (pump on) you can get a sock ready to soak with stabilizer for your desired goal.

Is this salt or non-salt pool? Be sure to update your signature with all of your pool info. That info will determine what your CYA goal should be. See my signature as an example. When you post your results, please do it as follows:

FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

 

[stack24]

Ignore the FC test going back to pink. If you let it sit it will always do that. Once it goes clear, that's your FC number. If you aren't doing the CC test, just toss it away. While it's good to know what your fill source levels are, post back with a full set from the pool after it's full and you let the water mix for about 45 min or so. That's when we can really get specific on the pool. Remember new water has no CYA in it, so as so as the water starts moving (pump on) you can get a sock ready to soak with stabilizer for your desired goal.

Is this salt or non-salt pool? Be sure to update your signature with all of your pool info. That info will determine what your CYA goal should be. See my signature as an example. When you post your results, please do it as follows:

FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

Thanks for that information, I'll go back and do another test. I am set to plaster sometime this week weather permitting or next week so then I will be able to fill then do a more accurate test. It will be a chlorine/tablet pool to start for the first year but convert to SWG after the warranty from the builder workmanship is up (Didn't want to deal with a waiver.

I will for sure update everything in the signature etc as soon as it's complete and everything is setup.

 

[Mdragger88]

I was trying to do the FC test and I was up to about 16 drops or so and it went clear

Your fill water has 8ppm fc? I bet your toilets & tubs sparkle

 

[Texas Splash]

With a new plaster pool, you can expect your builder to provide start-up instructions. Some can vary, but some basic reminders:
- Make note of everything the builder adds (chemically) on start-up.
- No CYA for first 3 days; then you'll need to increase the CYA to the 40 - 50 (it's getting hot in TX).
- Ask builder about adding minimal amount of chlorine once full; maybe only 2-3 ppm to avoid algae
- Once full, you will brush a LOT; pH will be on the rise for a few months; so have a place to store muriatic acid outside away from kids, pets, other chemicals. or metal items. I keep my MA in a plastic container out behind the shed. It's fine in the heat, but you will use MA frequently to control the pH rise.
- Remember that tablets add CYA. They are also slow dissolving which is why you will add some CYA initially (after 3rd day) and add chlorine each day at first. Tabs are also acidic and can pull the pH and TA down low, so be careful about those numbers. In-short, tabs are fine short term, but you have to be mindful of CYA and pH when using them too long.

Once you get the pool full and circulated, post back with number if you like. Speak to your builder about the start-up process and we'll help you.

 

[stack24]

Your fill water has 8ppm fc? I bet your toilets & tubs sparkle

hahaha I'm pretty sure me thinking I have to keep adding because it kept going back caused that to be just a bit too high lol

 

[stack24]

So my pool has been filled and the pump was running or about 4 hours yesterday and just started up again today. He has it setup to run 12 hours currently. The poolmaster that setup the startup poured what looked like about a gallon of Muratic Acid and then a Large measuring cup full of Shock. They then put the tablets in the in line chlorinator. From what I saw that was it.

I brushed the pool last night and will brush again of course daily.

I just did my first test and these are the results I got.

FC - 7.5
CC - 1
CYA - I don't think there was any CYA because I went all the way to the top and could still see the dot (did i do it wrong)
PH - between 6.8 & 7.2 in terms of color
TA - 80
CH - 125

Would love some feedback.

 

[HermanTX]

Looks great. the PB probably has not added CYA yet. Your FC may go down quickly so just keep an eye on it. With zero CYA your FC can stay 2-4ppm. Your TA is right on mark and your CH will probably need to move up in future.
pH is the important one to watch as it will increase.

To confirm if your FC is really 7.5ppm You could try your K-1000 kit (the blue box in the TF-100) and use that for FC testing. If it is very YELLOW then it is above 5ppm. The chlorine testing half of the comparator is normally best if you know your FC will be under 5ppm and you just want confirmation of that. With no CYA I expect your FC to drop in this heat.

I normally use it for testing my tap water (fill water) as FC should normally be under 5ppm . Obviously use your powder in the TF-100 for on-going testing once your pool is up and running as you will have CYA in it and your FC will need confirmation using the powder and drops.

It is time to update your signature now that you have a functioning pool. Go under profile and signatue.

 

[stack24]

Looks great. the PB probably has not added CYA yet. Your FC may go down quickly so just keep an eye on it. With zero CYA your FC can stay 2-4ppm. Your TA is right on mark and your CH will probably need to move up in future.
pH is the important one to watch as it will increase.

To confirm if your FC is really 7.5ppm You could try your K-1000 kit (the blue box in the TF-100) and use that for FC testing. If it is very YELLOW then it is above 5ppm. The chlorine testing half of the comparator is normally best if you know your FC will be under 5ppm and you just want confirmation of that. With no CYA I expect your FC to drop in this heat.

I normally use it for testing my tap water (fill water) as FC should normally be under 5ppm . Obviously use your powder in the TF-100 for on-going testing once your pool is up and running as you will have CYA in it and your FC will need confirmation using the powder and drops.

It is time to update your signature now that you have a functioning pool. Go under profile and signatue.

Thank you for all the information in all my threads. Yeah I did do the simple test that has the two sections and it was really yellow so it seems to be over the 5 as you stated. I will definitely go get all the information of the pool and put it in my signature now.

 

[stack24]

@HermanTX

So I just did a quick test right now and noticed that the TF100 Chlorine side was almost clear. So I did the stirrer one and it was barely a faint pink and it only took 2 drops to get it back to clear. Which would put my FC at 1 if I am not mistaken.

Is this becuase of the sun eating up all the FC in the pool right now and it not being able to keep up?

 

[Texas Splash]

No CYA will result in a very fast depletion of free chlorine. The SWG cannot keep up. This time of year we still have heat and tough sunlight. You should have a CYA of 70 minimum, then balance the FC to that CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. For now, use liquid chlorine to increase the FC right away before you risk getting algae.

 

[stack24]

No CYA will result in a very fast depletion of free chlorine. The SWG cannot keep up. This time of year we still have heat and tough sunlight. You should have a CYA of 70 minimum, then balance the FC to that CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. For now, use liquid chlorine to increase the FC right away before you risk getting algae.

Currently I don't have a SWG setup. That will come in a year. I'm using an inline chlorinator at the moment which it looks like the dial is turned to 5??

Will the same thing hold true, go grab some liquid chlorine to bring it up fast? I'm still waiting on them to schedule pool school and come check it out again.

 

[Texas Splash]

Will the same thing hold true,

Let me correct myself on something .... your pool is new and I see you just filled it yesterday. Therefore your installer won't add CYA for 3 days and will probably keep the FC quite low. So it's fine. My apologies. If they have you using tabs for now, just continue with their process until you pass the 3-day mark. At that time, then you'll need to be more concerned with the FC/CYA balancing per the FC/CYA Levels.

 

[stack24]

Let me correct myself on something .... your pool is new and I see you just filled it yesterday. Therefore your installer won't add CYA for 3 days and will probably keep the FC quite low. So it's fine. My apologies. If they have you using tabs for now, just continue with their process until you pass the 3-day mark. At that time, then you'll need to be more concerned with the FC/CYA balancing per the FC/CYA Levels.

Got it, thank you for following up. They did the startup on the 23rd mid day. So just waiting or the next step I guess and will follow from there.

Thanks again.

 

[Texas Splash]

You can expect they'll show up and do a few basic things like cleaning, show you the equipment, and perhaps add some muriatic acid (for the pH). Perhaps they will add some chlorine. Maybe they'll add stabilizer (or conditioner) as well. Try to keep notes on everything they added. It may help you in a day or two. You won't be adding salt for 30 days, so chlorine additions will all be manual (liquid) and/or using the tabs for 3-4 weeks as long as the CYA doesn't get too high. Once your CYA gets close to 60-70, stop with the tabs. Congrats on the pool!

 

[stack24]

You can expect they'll show up and do a few basic things like cleaning, show you the equipment, and perhaps add some muriatic acid (for the pH). Perhaps they will add some chlorine. Maybe they'll add stabilizer (or conditioner) as well. Try to keep notes on everything they added. It may help you in a day or two. You won't be adding salt for 30 days, so chlorine additions will all be manual (liquid) and/or using the tabs for 3-4 weeks as long as the CYA doesn't get too high. Once your CYA gets close to 60-70, stop with the tabs. Congrats on the pool!

Thanks for all the help. At the startup they did pour in about a jug of Muriatic Acid and a large measuring cup full of shock. That's all I saw (he was a little grumpy when i was asking what everything was lol)

I won't have my SWG system actually setup until next year since that's part of my agreement so I can make sure I don't void the builders workmanship warranty so I will be having to use tabs with the in line chlorinator.

 

[HermanTX]

@HermanTX

So I just did a quick test right now and noticed that the TF100 Chlorine side was almost clear. So I did the stirrer one and it was barely a faint pink and it only took 2 drops to get it back to clear. Which would put my FC at 1 if I am not mistaken.

Is this becuase of the sun eating up all the FC in the pool right now and it not being able to keep up?

So both tests confirm the low FC which was expected because of no CYA.
As indicated by @Texas Splash follow your PB with regard to when he adds CYA. Since you will be using LC going forward for the year, ensure that he does not add too much CYA. You want to keep it in the 40-60 range.
This summer mine started at 30 and I crept it up a little each month plus I went away on vacation and used pucks which also added some. I am now at 50 and holding that for balance of summer.
I expect some dilution when we get rain in latter part of year and into early 2022.

For now you can use LC and supplement with pucks if the PB is giving those to you to keep your FC up in 3 to 4ppm range.

 

[stack24]

So both tests confirm the low FC which was expected because of no CYA.
As indicated by @Texas Splash follow your PB with regard to when he adds CYA. Since you will be using LC going forward for the year, ensure that he does not add too much CYA. You want to keep it in the 40-60 range.
This summer mine started at 30 and I crept it up a little each month plus I went away on vacation and used pucks which also added some. I am now at 50 and holding that for balance of summer.
I expect some dilution when we get rain in latter part of year and into early 2022.

For now you can use LC and supplement with pucks if the PB is giving those to you to keep your FC up in 3 to 4ppm range.

So I have the pucks and in line chlorinator right now. Are you suggesting that when those are done just use liquid going forward for the rest of the year until next when I move to the SWG? I know the pucks raise the CYA so there is no way of using that for the rest of the swim year I take it and not have a problem with CYA rise.

 

[HermanTX]

Are you suggesting that when those are done just use liquid going forward for the rest of the year until next when I move to the SWG? I know the pucks raise the CYA so there is no way of using that for the rest of the swim year I take it and not have a problem with CYA rise.

So it is a balancing act. If you are using LC you really want to keep your CYA in the 40-60 range. However, according to TFP, if you use a SWCG you can let your CYA climb to 60-80. So my suggestion is switch to liquid chlorine to keep your CYA in check for now as you do not want to drain your pool. Once it gets to the 40-50 range (I say that because if you want to travel for a week or 2 - then you want to use those pucks then and you have room for the CYA to climb), try to hold there for rest of summer and fall.

When you think you are near the time to install your SWCG, be prepared to increase CYA with stabilizer or use pucks that last month or two. The goal with your SWCG is to replenish your daily loss of FC so the higher CYA helps stabilize that FC range.

 

[stack24]

So I have been doing my daily tests of basic PH and Chlorine and yesterday I did my weekly big test with the kit. Here were my results. I do have them in Pool Math app and synced if anyone wants to check my history and see if I am doing everything right.

Since I didn't have any CYA added to start I have been doing the chlorine tests and then supplementing the pucks with 73% Cal-Hypo to bring the levels up becuase on sunny days I would be at like .5 or 1.

With these results I have now and Calcium Hardness still at the same levels and CYA finally rising should I be adding something to bring up the Calcium Hardness or wait a bit longer since it hasn't been 30 days yet?

I know you guys have mentioned liquid chlorine a lot, is using the Cal Hypo essentially the same thing if I didn't want to use as many pucks to start slowing down the CYA? Should I also turn down the inline chlorinator to a lower number other than the max 5 and just keep supplementing with the Cal Hypo?

FC - 6
CC - .5
CYA - 37
PH - 7.4
TA - 70
CH - 125