Test Results are in - who is the winner?

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T

tclproductions

Bronze Supporter
May 20, 2017
64
Westlake village, CA
Ok, after pleasing my inner child and using my new test kit here are the results:

AL 120
PH 7.2
FC 11
CC nada
Calcium 1325 (ouch)
CYA 100

Pool temp: 85, Solar Cover on

So the water is crystal clear and all seems fine except...if I don't do anything after about 5 days I can see a few spots of yellow algae coming back. Not much, but enough to where I want to brush it off. I could continue this way of course. But last year I had a year without any issues so I would love to get there again.
I was very happy that due to the enormous amount of rain we had this year I didn't have to add water from October to March. I got all Rain Water, Calcium free. My calcium was 800. Unfortunately, I went with Leslies suggestion to use Powder Plus and that's my only explanation why my calcium is so high all of a sudden. That and the plaster is slowly degrading. When I brush I see it and my pool robot has white powder in it always.

So...am I understanding this correctly. My "normal" level of Chlorine should be kept right where it is right now. So my 10-11 is the new 2-3? (due to CYA) - and if I slam, I need to go to 39 FC?
Do I do this in one shot? or is it ok to gradually increase. Like 2 gallons of liquid chlorine every 12 hours until I see 39. Also, once I am at 39...can my little guy still jump in? A leslie person would scream "NOOO" but they want to sell me a chlorine reducer already at this level as 2-3 is their norm.

So the normal test kit, PH and FC is useless for me, right? My chlorine needs to be always cranking above 10. Is that correct?

Important is this to notice: I cannot replace the water at this time, I understand I need to do that but I am planing on re-plastering later this year or early next year. Kids are using it daily, gotta find a way to get thru this season.

I watched the "how to get rid of a green pool" video but mine is not green. It looks fine, except the ongoing yellow algae creeping up.

Any more thoughts or ideas? Thanks so much in advance!!!

T
 
Alright! How about that speedstir huh? I can't live without mine. Okay, so let's get to priority #1..... your CYA. We need to ensure it's only at 100 because it may be higher. Please do the diluted CYA test as noted on the TFP Pool School - CYA page, starting at Step 8. If your CYA turns-out to be higher, then you'll want to exchange "some" water before trying to adjust levels and wasting chemicals. So give that a shot first and let us know w hat you get.
CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.
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- - - Updated - - -

Important is this to notice: I cannot replace the water at this time, I understand I need to do that but I am planning on re-plastering later this year or early next year. Kids are using it daily, gotta find a way to get thru this season.
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I just saw this. I still think it's a good idea to do the diluted test though so we know what you're up against. Even though you're re-plastering, you may only need to exchange a little water. But if it turns-out to be higher, at least then you'll know how much bleach (ballpark) will be required to keep-up.

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except the ongoing yellow algae creeping up.
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That's still algae. :(
 
Texas Splash said:
Alright! How about that speedstir huh? I can't live without mine. Okay, so let's get to priority #1..... your CYA. We need to ensure it's only at 100 because it may be higher. Please do the diluted CYA test as noted on the TFP Pool School - CYA page, starting at Step 8. If your CYA turns-out to be higher, then you'll want to exchange "some" water before trying to adjust levels and wasting chemicals. So give that a shot first and let us know w hat you get.


- - - Updated - - -

I just saw this. I still think it's a good idea to do the diluted test though so we know what you're up against. Even though you're re-plastering, you may only need to exchange a little water. But if it turns-out to be higher, at least then you'll know how much bleach (ballpark) will be required to keep-up.

- - - Updated - - -

That's still algae. :(
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Ok, of course you had the right feeling here. CYA on diluted test came back with 120-130 range :(

We have some pretty harsh water restrictions, if I dump half the pool that's gonna cost half a fortune only to drain it completely anyways when replastering (and I have questions about that too btw but lets keep that fun for later)
 
No doubt those in CA have their work cut-out for them when it comes to water restrictions. It will be something you struggle with, so here are a few things to pass along as you figure-out the best plan ahead:
- A CYA of 120 would probably require a daily FC of around 12-15; with algae, the SLAM would be upwards of around 45-47.
- Remember that testing pH will always be tricky whenever the FC is over 10
- An extremely high FC can also effect some other tests (i.e. TA)
- Several owners in CA utilize creative downspouts and other rain collection methods to help
- As you already learned, avoid calcium and stabilized products since the only way to lower CH and CYA is water exchange; regular bleach is your pool's best friend right now
- If you do decide to try and exchange some water, even if you simply do enough to get the CYA clearly down to around 90, that could help quite a bit

Some others may have some techniques for you as well. I hope our info is valuable to you, and certainly let us know if you have anymore questions.
 
Thanks!

I do have a question - if I go thru with slamming. Do I go about it by adding 1 gallon of liquid chlorine every 2 hours...measure ...until I reach 45-47?

Can I still go in at that level or will my pants fall off? :)

Also, the local pool store sells 12% potent chlorine vs Do it center Kemtek 10% vs Costco Bleach - any opinions on that?
 
You add it all at once until you hit your target FC.

All three of those products work. It's just a matter of which is better deal, and obviously you don't need to haul as many jugs with higher concentrated amount. This can be worth extra price for me at times
 
Texas Splash said:
tcl, I'm going to PM someone from your area who I would like to contribute. You should hear from him soon.
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Not much I can suggest, here. I hunted down his water company's website and it appears they have rather draconian rules that haven't been relaxed since the Governor declared the drought to be over.

It's reverse osmosis or a big load of gravel to fill it in.
 

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Richard320 said:
Not much I can suggest, here. I hunted down his water company's website and it appears they have rather draconian rules that haven't been relaxed since the Governor declared the drought to be over.

It's reverse osmosis or a big load of gravel to fill it in.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, draconian rules for sure. Lol!

So, I slammed the pool. Now we wait...

Will get a quote for reverse, just to know. Sounds like its an expensive ordeal. Makes no sense to me. I'd rather put that money towards replastering / refilling - I'll probably swing thru this summer season by brushing when yellow appears. Keep FC around 12. And replaster in November. Who knows, maybe the bit of algae that keeps growing gets killed now via Mr. SLAM!
 
You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear (including no spots of visible algae).


When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
 

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