Test kit in ... let the SLAMing begin!

[Caco]

I use a kitchen scale for the solid/dry measures
I have some plastic 2 cup measuring cups for liquid, with marks on the side

Lol, I feel dumb, shouldve asked that before

Absolute accuracy to the gram is not necessary, just in the ballpark is fine imo

Salt I just measure by bags.

 

[Caco]

I would do the backwash first

Then you can get the water circulating before you start the testing process

 

[buballodingo]

When u saud extended backwash...how long do u think...should i rinse as well. Do i do 2 to 3 times and fill water in between?

Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

 

[Caco]

I would do a 2 minutes backwash, followed by a 30 second rinse cycle
I am thinking three times would be plenty

Then you can switch to filter mode

 

[Caco]

Going out for lunch, bbs

After the filter has run for 30 mins run all the tests on your pool water
Post results here and enter into the now colum of pool math
Except for cya, that will be zero

 

[buballodingo]

The plan once the pool is filled is to do several long backwash and rinse cycles to clean your filter
Then we will balance your water in this order. This means addressing
ph - to 7.2
cya - to 30ppm
ta - depends on fill level
calcium - to 200

Then we will elevate the FC to 10 with bleach and keep it there ready for an OCLT

Hi Caco,
Is the above still the target levels?

Filter on with 15 mins to go....
Cheers

 

[Caco]

Yep, still looks good to me

 

[Caco]

How are those tests going?
Some hints for you:
Make sure you are careful about filling to the line with the water
When you do the tests squeeze the bottle of reagent gently, letting the drop form on the tip of the bottle and fall naturally
Always rinse the test tubes with pool water before and after each test. Before to make sure the tube is clear of any previous tests, after to remove all traces of dyes etc in the tests that may stain the tubes
Keep the tests in a cool dark place to help extend the life of the reagent. I keep mine in the laundry cupboard and perform all the tests there

 

[buballodingo]

Ok testing done:

Test Date	8/01/2017	Comments
FC	1	2 drop titrating reagent
TC	2	FC +CC
CC	1	2 drop titrating reagent
pH	>7.8	>than max measure on tube
TA	60	Did high sensitivity test
CH	50	2 drops
CYA	0	Not tested - new water
S	0	Not tested - new water
SWG Level	0%
SWG AM	NA	0 hours
SWG PM	NA	0 hours
Other Notes
Pool drained completely 7/1/17. This test is to re SLAM and re establish the pool. No salt test kit

Pool math calculator says I need :
FC to 10- add 3029ml Chlorine
pH to 7.2 - add192mL of muriatic acid (to lower pH ( I need to get some) or 247g of dry acid Note - pH was greater than 7.8 but that was the max measure. Also is this product ok Hy-Clor 3kg Dry Acid pH Decreaser Soft Pack | Bunnings Warehouse
TA - what is the TA target as you said it was dependent on fill level? for TA 70 I need 364g of baking soda - will any from the supermarket do?
CH to 200 - add 3447g of calcium chloride - will need to get more as I only have around 2kg of granules left
CYA to 30 - add 622g of stabiliser
Salt to 3500 (initial target to see how SGW reacts) - add 73 kg of salt

 

[Caco]

Wow, great job on the testing
We will do what we can with what we have and go from there

We will start with the ph first
The plan is to add enough hydrochloric acid to aim for 7.2
Let the pool circulate for 15-30 mins, retest and add more if we need to

So if we assume the ph is 7.8 poolmath is telling me to add 192ml of hydrochloric acid
So carefully, staying upwind of the acid, go measure and pour slowly in front of the return
Think a pencil stream size of acid
Rinse the measuring cup in the pool water after and keep that one for the acid by itself (acid and the other chemicals dont play nicely together)

While that is dispersing we will work on the CYA

- - - Updated - - -

Just to confirm on the TA did you do the high sensitivity test?? Did you fill to the upper line on the tube

 

[buballodingo]

Thanks Caco - me being careful here I might ask some questions so I full y understand.

Pool math calculator gives options for dry acid and muriatic acid to drop pH - does hydrochloric do the same thing?

I did not do the high sensitivity test - what is this for and what will it do? I can redo this and assume I should do before adding the acid.

also my chlorine is 130g/L the pool math result is for 6% bleach - do I put 13% bleach in the pool math calculator as it will drop the amount required by half? Or is my math out?

Cheers

 

[Caco]

Yeah can imagine you feel a little bit of math/test overload at the moment
We will work through one thing at a time, so its easier for you to keep straight in your head
But before you go drop acid (in the pool, lol) we need to check the TA test

If you filled to the lower line and used four drops you multiply that by 25, not 10
So your TA would be 100, not 40
So confirm that you did fill to lower line and used 4 drops for TA of 100

Change the figure in pool math and you should see it changes the amount of acid you need

Guess what muriatic acid is the old fashioned name for hydrochloric acid
So its the same stuff
I looked for muriatic acid a few years ago, asked at bunnings, mitre 10, etc etc
Noone had ever heard of it so I have always used dry acid instead
I only figured that out that they are the same this year :taped:

 

[Caco]

Thanks Caco - me being careful here I might ask some questions so I full y understand.

This is exactly what I want you to do, so perfect.

I did not do the high sensitivity test - what is this for and what will it do? I can redo this and assume I should do before adding the acid.

Basically the difference between the tests is the accuracy level. The high level test reads in 10ppm increments. The low level test reads in 25ppm increments. No need to redo the test unless you really really want to. 25ppm is fine for what we are doing

also my chlorine is 130g/L the pool math result is for 6% bleach - do I put 13% bleach in the pool math calculator as it will drop the amount required by half? Or is my math out?

Nope that is exactly what we will check and do before we add the chlorine. At 130g/l that is 13% weight. Whenever you change brands of bleach you will need to check the percentage and change in poolmath. Although since you have a swg I dont think you will use bleach much

 

[buballodingo]

I edited my results with the high sensitivity test for TA as well as the pool math outcome.

 

[Caco]

Ok with a TA of 60 I now show that to change the ph you need to add 263ml of your hydrochloric acid
With big ph moves like this one I tend to undershoot the addition
Its easier to add more later

So I would add 1 cup (250ml) of the acid slowly as I described above and let the pool circulate
Let me know when done and we will work on the CYA as it mixes

 

[buballodingo]

Acid in...Can we work on CYA now or do we need to measure pH in 30 mins?

 

[Caco]

To add the CYA you want to dissolve into the water
We suggest for this to place it into a sock, or stocking, secure to the end of a broom handle and hang in the water in front of the return
Like in this post https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/99506-CecilB-new-member
Bonus points for a fancy sock :joker:
Squeeze the sock as you go past every now and then to help it dissolve

Poolmath shows me that you should add 622g of CYA
Thats your pool protector stabiliser (Isocyanuric Acid)


We will test ph again in 30 mins from when you put it in

 

[buballodingo]

I bought a skimmer sock to do that as I read this post a few days ago. The fishnet stockings that I wear just wont hold the stabiliser

 

[Caco]

Please NO pics of that :lol:

You said before that you were likely short on calcium
Is this a liquid or a powder?
Can you measure and tell me how much you have?

 

[buballodingo]

Stabiliser in - does it usually go hard as rock when in the water?

I have around 1.7kg of the water hardener which is 710gm/kg of calcium chloride