Tearing my hair out, constant "Check Salt" warning, for years!

[rthorntn]

Hi,

My decade old Zodiac Tri Ph, has been complaining about salt for a very long time, at least a few years, the fault won't clear with the select button 3s hold.

I'm taking another look because I suspect I'm getting no chlorine output, I have a salt droplet test that shows my salt is 4400ppm.

I plugged a power measurement device in (without the pump on the chlorinator relay) and I can see less than a 5W change in power with chlorinator off going to 100%, I measure 26V at the power supply with my DMM, cables are a bit melted at the connector but I can measure conductivity.

How does a chlorinator measure salt, can I measure what it's measuring, it there a circuit that I could test?

Would being on off-grid inverters 24/7 impact this, I switched to off-grid 4 years ago, I saw a post mention that the water temperature and mains supply voltage can effect the salt warnings?

Anyone have any idea if a persistent "Check Salt" warning on a Tri Ph will cause the system to stop producing or do I actually have two seperate issues?

It's getting pretty long in the tooth now, I should probably replace it, the acid pump died already and the LCD is glitchy lol.

UPDATE: when trying to clear the fault I can consistently bring up an "OUTPUT FAULT" that I can clear by clearing the faults again.

Please help!

Thanks.
Richard

 

[PoolStored]

10 years is a looooooong time for a cell to work...

• Do a salt test, and if the salt level is too low, add two 25kg bags of salt to the shallow end of your pool. Run the filter for approx. 6 hours to help mix the salt in the pool. This can take up to 24 hours to fully dissolve.
• Check the cell for build-up. Clean the cell and retry.
• If the low salt light is still on, then you should get your pool water tested using a salt tester or a test strip. If the Salinity is above 4000ppm, then you may need to have your Chlorinator checked.
• Raise your water temperature. The colder the water, the higher the salt level needs to be.
• Perform the quick Skimmer Test – Turn the chlorinator on, get a handful of salt and throw it into the skimmer box, check the chlorinator box, if the light goes out, they just need more salt, if the light stays on, there may be another issue.
• How old is the cell? Low Salt could be one of the signs the cell is reaching the end of its working life (most cells have between 10,000 and 20,000 hours of operation)

Ultimate Pool Chlorinator Troubleshooting | Zodiac New Zealand

A saltwater chlorinator is the best type of chlorine generator for the pool. Learn how to troubleshoot all the issues that saltwater chlorinators may encounter.

www.zodiac.co.nz

 

[rthorntn]

Thanks!

Sorry there has been 3 cells, I've replaced the cell twice.

I just did a salt test an hour ago 4400ppm.

I'd say this cell has about 8000 hours on it.

The water is warm, its coming into summer.

Checked the cell a few weeks ago, no real build up but the plates are definitely noticeably thinner than when I installed it, a plate was so brittle that a 5cm triangle had broken off the corner of one of the plates.

I have repaired the chlorinator in the past, I replaced the battery.

 

[PoolStored]

Ooooof...with 8K, likely time for a new cell...

 

[rthorntn]

Thanks, well as if by magic I had a new cell, I just installed it, problem solved.

So for future travellers, a worn cell can clearly cause "CHECK SALT" errors a long time before the cell actually fails, in my case many months, I did not know that!

 

[PoolStored]

 

[rthorntn]

Haha, I should add, the bad cell was a "clone" cell, that may have contributed.

The one I just installed is genuine, I won't be buying a clone again.

 

[PoolStored]

Yes, there are the budget minded here that buy anything, even TEMU cells, to save a few $$.
There are a large number of us that buy OEM to avoid headaches.
Life, if you have Freedom of choice, is wonderful.

 

[tcat]

I don't trust the LEDs. I've had "check cell" all summer, and FC has been good all summer set at 25%, running 7-8 hours. I now have it at 12% and FC is stable at 6 (CYA 30). Water is at 60, so pretty sure it's good for the "winter" (not that winter happens in Texas).