TA Will Not Lower

Jump to latest Follow Reply
J

jadesse

0
Jun 22, 2017
10
Chicago, IL
We recently purchased a house with an 27' above ground pool. We had to replace the pool do to wind damage. I am starting fresh with a new pool & water. I use the test strips & also just purchased a Taylor K-2006 test kit. I have verified that my TA is elevated with the test kit. I took a water sample to American Sale to have it tested & those results are below. They suggested adding 2 gallons of Muriatic acid. It lower the TA but not enough. I thought I was just given some bad information in regards to adding & running the pump.

TC - 1.1
FC - 1.1
PH - 7.9
TA - 220
CH - 325
Stabilizer - 30

I went back to American Sale & had my water tested again but I don't have the test sheet. They told me again that I would need to add 2 gallons of Muriatic Acid. They said to turn off the pump & dump it in around the pool. Let it sit for about an hour then run the pump for six hours. The TA is still testing high. On 6/17/17 I went to the Great Escape to have my water tested yet again & the results are below.

FC - .36
TC - .36
Cy - 8
pH - 7.4
CH - 391
TA - 195

They told me that these number were fine & to add two pounds of pool shock to get the chlorine number up. (Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione, Dihydrate) Also to use a couple of stabilizer tabs in floater to get the elevated.

My test results from today are below that American Sale gave me.

TC - 2.2
FC - 2.0
pH - 7.5
TA - 195
CH - 325
Stabilizer - 15

They recommend two quarts of metal out they are telling me that the CH might be blocking the Muriatic acid from doing its job. I just need to guidance in getting my pool chemistry balanced. I don't want to keep dumping stuff into my pool & not achieve the desired result. One other thing to note, my water is crystal clear which is a good thing I guess.
 
Sorry, those "experts" are just guessing.

Last time I checked, my pool was at 850 CH and it is crystal clear. When my pH needs adjusting, I dose it with acid and give it a little brushing and twenty minutes later, I'm at my target. CH has nothing to do with TA reduction.

The acid is working. Your TA is going down slowly. The problem is, the TA is still so high that the pH bounces back up overnight. It's just going to take as along as it takes and as much acid as it takes to lower the TA so the pH holds for a few days. Don't do that acid and wait garbage. All you'll do is etch the plaster in the area where you dumped all that acid. More: Acid column myth

If you want to speed up the TA reduction so that you can stop adding acid daily, then use this: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
 
All opinions here, but ditch the store. CH will not hamper your acid. Lowering TA is a drawn out process, similar to what you have been doing but over the course of weeks. CH will not hamper your acid additions. Metal out is good when it is required, it is not for CH.

I would use your K-2006 kit and post those results here. There is just too much doubt cast on the store test results. Post these, like this:

FC: ___
CC: ___
pH: ___
TA: ___
CH: ___
CYA: ___

You will get the guidance here, lots of knowledge and info. Just takes your test kit results and the occasional picture as ransom to hold folks attention. Check out the "pool school" tab for a lot of reading. Post any questions you might have. And WELCOME!
 
Pool Tool said:
All opinions here, but ditch the store. CH will not hamper your acid. Lowering TA is a drawn out process, similar to what you have been doing but over the course of weeks. CH will not hamper your acid additions. Metal out is good when it is required, it is not for CH.

I would use your K-2006 kit and post those results here. There is just too much doubt cast on the store test results. Post these, like this:

FC: ___
CC: ___
pH: ___
TA: ___
CH: ___
CYA: ____

You will get the guidance here, lots of knowledge and info. Just takes your test kit results and the occasional picture as ransom to hold folks attention. Check out the "pool school" tab for a lot of reading. Post any questions you might have. And WELCOME!
Click to expand...

My test results are below:

FC: 2.8
CC: 0.04 When I added the R-0003 there was a very faint color change to pick.
pH: 7.2
TA: 225
CH: 250
CYA: Not measurable. When I added the R-0013 the water was not cloudy at all.
 
Welcome jadesse

If you can take a minute and get your signature filled out it will help folks out a lot.

That CYA has different results from each store and now not measurable for you with a test kit. My eggs would be on getting that CYA up and measurable before you get other problems on top of the TA. Do you have a salt water pool?
 
funandsun said:
Welcome jadesse

If you can take a minute and get your signature filled out it will help folks out a lot.

That CYA has different results from each store and now not measurable for you with a test kit. My eggs would be on getting that CYA up and measurable before you get other problems on top of the TA. Do you have a salt water pool?
Click to expand...

No my pool is not salt water.
 
ok

well bookmark this site The Pool Calculator

that will be a major help going forward for you when measuring out adjustments.

You will want to get some stabilizer (which is CYA, which is Cyanuric Acid), since your CYA is not really measurable and since the only way to lower CYA is to partial drain and refill, I would suggest making small adjustments of targeting 10ppm until you get a test result that you can work with, from there you want to target 30-50, I personally targeted 30 and overshot a bit which means I have to round up to 40 now. So, keep this in mind. Higher CYA will mean higher Chlorine requirements.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

Folks recommend putting your CYA in an old sock and hanging that in front of your skimmer, it took my pool about 36 hours to absorb the 2lbs that I had to add this year.
 
funandsun said:
ok

well bookmark this site The Pool Calculator

that will be a major help going forward for you when measuring out adjustments.

You will want to get some stabilizer (which is CYA, which is Cyanuric Acid), since your CYA is not really measurable and since the only way to lower CYA is to partial drain and refill, I would suggest making small adjustments of targeting 10ppm until you get a test result that you can work with, from there you want to target 30-50, I personally targeted 30 and overshot a bit which means I have to round up to 40 now. So, keep this in mind. Higher CYA will mean higher Chlorine requirements.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

Folks recommend putting your CYA in an old sock and hanging that in front of your skimmer, it took my pool about 36 hours to absorb the 2lbs that I had to add this year.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I did not know that the stabilizer & cyanuric acid were the same. Calculations say to add 5.5 pound to get me up to 40 PPM. I will do as you suggest & do it incrementally.
 
jadesse said:
Thanks! I did not know that the stabilizer & cyanuric acid were the same. Calculations say to add 5.5 pound to get me up to 40 PPM. I will do as you suggest & do it incrementally.
Click to expand...

So, I finally was able to get the stabilizer level up & it is know reading somewhere between 40-50. All my other values are unchanged from previous testing. Should I try adding a couple more gallon of muranic acid to lower the TA?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply