TA doesn't seem to change how often I add MA
- Thread starter voidpointer
- Start date
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I read somewhere in TFP that CSI is not something I should pay much attention to if I use the "TFP Method" of pool chemical maintenance. I've been following that wisdom and I completely ignore it. I don't even know what CSI is.
Does the fact that the plaster is new contribute to it as well? I just have this feeling that it's still "shedding" (curing?) but I don't know for sure. I do not have a white cloud when I brush (which isn't often). I do get some red sand in the pool quite frequently and it gums up the pool cleaner too. But no white cloud, and no plaster quartz pebbles or anything in the vacuum basket.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)
How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.
www.troublefreepool.com
I'm happy to do reading but it's hard to know where to look in a great big book (referring to your second link). Like I said, this is the guidance I read and what I've stuck to. I can read more about CSI to get a better understanding of it, but I don't know if that changes the general advice above.
If your plaster is weak for some reason, then you are in a unique situation where CSI becomes more important.
Good plaster requires less concern for CSI.
At this point, we don't know if your plaster is good or weak.
If it is weak, it will be soft and scratch easily.
Soft or hard are relative terms, soapstone is soft and granite is hard relative to each other.
Good plaster requires less concern for CSI.
At this point, we don't know if your plaster is good or weak.
If it is weak, it will be soft and scratch easily.
Soft or hard are relative terms, soapstone is soft and granite is hard relative to each other.
425 - 275 = 150 ppm increase.
Maybe turn off the autofill and add fill water manually to see how much fill water is being added.
1,000 gallons of fill water adds 18.5 oz of calcium chloride, which adds 6.4 ppm of calcium hardness.
It would take 23,438 gallons of fill water to add 150 ppm calcium hardness.
That's about 195 gallons per day for 4 months (120 days).
IG 26x40 19,440 gal Freeform.
26 x 40 is a lot of surface area.
That’s about 650 gallons per inch.
195 gallons is 0.30 inch, so it is possible for it to be all evaporation, especially if you are using the heater.
26 x 40 is a lot of surface area.
That’s about 650 gallons per inch.
195 gallons is 0.30 inch, so it is possible for it to be all evaporation, especially if you are using the heater.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I'm on page 6 of that thread so far. One thing that stands out is that my TA is not increasing. It's been slowly decreasing while my CH increases. Again I'm not sure how I'm supposed to visibly inspect my plaster for the issue. I do have some weird stains on my tanning ledge but those have pretty much been there since plaster got put on and looks like a workmanship issue.
I'm using the heater in the spa only. I haven't used it in the main pool itself. But I've probably used in the spa maybe 20 nights total since March. And usually for only an hour or two.
I'm using the heater in the spa only. I haven't used it in the main pool itself. But I've probably used in the spa maybe 20 nights total since March. And usually for only an hour or two.
It is increasing due to the fill water, but you are lowering it with acid.
If you didn't add acid, the TA would be going up.
In any case, evaporation and refill can probably account for most of the increase.
Maybe turn off the autofill to see how much the water goes down.
About 0.3 inches of evaporation will account for the issue.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I get what you mean now. I have never bothered to do two TA tests without adding acid between. And even if I did, how long would I need to wait for an appropriate amount of fill water to cause a +10 increase in ppm?
Probably not a useful exercise to embark on, but I think that's the gist of what you're getting at. I just don't know how much it increases before it goes back down again. The net effect is that it goes down over time, though.
Based on all of this I have a few questions:
- Will TA continue to go down over time, or does it balance out? My understanding is that once it hits 50, I need to start looking at ways to increase it.
- What should I do when CH continues to rise and goes outside of the ideal or target ranges?
The answers to all of these are most likely in the respective Further Reading pages. I'll go over those again (there's just too much information to keep in my head all at once).
Thanks to everyone for all the help so far!
Probably not a useful exercise to embark on, but I think that's the gist of what you're getting at. I just don't know how much it increases before it goes back down again. The net effect is that it goes down over time, though.
Based on all of this I have a few questions:
- Will TA continue to go down over time, or does it balance out? My understanding is that once it hits 50, I need to start looking at ways to increase it.
- What should I do when CH continues to rise and goes outside of the ideal or target ranges?
The answers to all of these are most likely in the respective Further Reading pages. I'll go over those again (there's just too much information to keep in my head all at once).
Thanks to everyone for all the help so far!
195 gallons of fill water will add 4.1 oz baking soda per day, which is 0.94 ppm per day or 6.6 ppm per week.
32 oz of acid will lower the TA by 6.4 ppm, so 32 oz per week seems about right.
32 oz of acid will lower the TA by 6.4 ppm, so 32 oz per week seems about right.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
What is it you are calculating here? I'm having a tough time following.
This is how much TA is being added from fill water.
The TA increases about 6.6 ppm per week from the TA in the fill water.
The TA increases about 6.6 ppm per week from the TA in the fill water.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I am reading the CH further reading page and it seems like my only practical option right now is to partially drain the pool and then fill it up again to reduce the CH. That sounds somewhat costly over years and honestly a big pain. And I'm nervous about what will happen to my plaster if a portion of it doesn't remain wet during the draining phase.
I have seen folks with whole-home water softening systems. Would it be worth it to invest in such a system? That way when my autofill runs, it's using soft water instead of hard.
I have seen folks with whole-home water softening systems. Would it be worth it to invest in such a system? That way when my autofill runs, it's using soft water instead of hard.
Your CH is not too high yet.
I would suggest a whole house water softener to reduce continual increases in the CH.
I would suggest a whole house water softener to reduce continual increases in the CH.