SWG with ABG

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AndyBSN

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Jul 16, 2018
14
Freeport, IL
I've been lurking for ahwile and enjoy this forum. We are having our pool installed on the 27th. This season, what's left of it, I will be using the chlorinator. Next season I would like to install Inyopools SWG along with a Hayword 300k BTU heater.

I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death but I have spent the better part of a day tring to get a consensus on saltwater and ABG pools. Some people say there is no correlation between saltwater pools and corrosion and others say you'rre nuts to do it no matter what pool you have. The ones that say your nuts are the ones that sell ozone systems and the ones that say no problem sell SWG.

I don't want to ruin my new pool but I REALLY like the benefits of a SWG. Looking for any insight some of you may have. What I'm really looking for is someone who has had one for several years with a similar pool setup to me and if they have had any problems. It seems if pH, alkalinity, proper bonding, and maybe using sacraficial anodes help to mitigate any problems.

Thanks in advance.
 
Hello and Welcome to TFP!!

I was in your position 2 years ago getting my pool installed in August. It didn't take long for the water to warm enough and we still got to swim.

The topic of salt and AGPs has been discussed a number of times. I you want, use the white search box in the upper right of each page for those two words and you can see what other have said.

SWG's come with high regards with many members here on the forum, both IG and AGP. I personally don't have a SWG. It is the general consensus that the salt level required for a SWG (3000 ppm) is not concentrated enough to cause any real issues. In comparison, ocean water is 10x more salt in it (35,000 ppm) and a "normally" chlorinated pool can be 2000+ ppm after a couple of years. The much larger controlling factor is pH of the water. Much of the corrosion issues on pool and equipment are either identical to a non-salt pool of the same age or can be attributed to pH out of range.

It is common for some corrosion (rust) to show on AGP's after a number of years. This rusting happens all the time on non-salt pools.
I like the resin uprights and caps myself. I think it gives the pool a softer, better look than metal parts would. Keep in mind that "all resin" pools usually still have metal walls. You mention that the pool comes with a SS section (mine did also). This is purposefully done around the skimmer/return as this is where rust is very common.

Keep water parameters in range and you shouldn't have any issues with a salt pool. TA (alkalinity) doesn't have an effect. Bonding is for personal protection, not corrosion. Sacrificial anodes haven't shown to have any effect, except adding metals to the water and we don't like that.

Definitely don't get an ozone system. They are not useful on residential outdoor pools. Nothing but money better spent elsewhere (like a swg system).

P.S. make sure the installer uses decent ball valves in the suction side and return side plumbing. You will need them when it come time for maintenance (pump basket cleaning and filter cleaning). The red/black handled ball valves at the local box store are known for sticking after a few months. You could pick up the parts and have them on hand when the installers show up.
 
Thanks for the reply. Makes me feel better about getting a SWG for the pool, it really seems like a great option. The place I bought my pool from included the Nature2 vision system which seemed like snake oil to me. I asked them to swap it out for a chlorinator for now.

As far as valves go, I will re-plumb the entire system in the spring when I install the SWG and the heater. Do most people recommend one brand of valve over another?
 
Andy:

Smart move on getting rid of the nature II. I had a SWG installed and also had a chlorinator installed as well. Actually removed the chlorinator and installed 2 unions and a pipe myself. Too much hassle. If you are concerned about corrosion, make sure that you have high end quality stainless steel screws in the pool. Some pools have bad luck with galvanic corrosion. I had a very weird issue in which I can post tomorrow (at least the link) where my screws had rust dripping on them after 1 year in a regular pool. With the advice of Chem Geek, I installed a Zinc Anode at the pump bonding wire, and not in the water as the zinc will dissolve and could eventually lead to staining. This put a stop to the problems at the light niche and even underwater, to this date 3 years later, the screws are still shiny and show no signs of corrosion.

It may be a mere coincidence, but the problem stopped a few days later after the Zinc Anode was installed. Maintain your chemicals and control PH as best as possible. Regarding shut off valves, I like the Pentair 3 way valves with locking pins. Thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

The corrosion had prior to the installation of the SWG, where my salt levels were probably at around 800 ppm based on chlorine additions. Now they are at 2,800-3,200 and still no problems with corrosion. I will be able to answer the question a little more in detail about 5-8 years from (projected) during a liner replacement. Hoping to get at least 10-13 years, but the fading may be too much and will just be replaced. I could then inspect the galvanized steel walls to determine if the SWG has caused any corrosion. In addition, double the size of the SWG for your pool size.
 
woodyp said:
Catanzaro------would you care to post a pic of the sacrificial anode you installed at the bonding lug?
Click to expand...


Zinc Anode Sequence of chemicals and possibly any effects on what happened to screws at light.

Please look at Post # 11. There were 2 terminal screws (Lowes or Home Depot) and a Copper # 8 Wires (Lowes and Home Depot) hooked up to the Zinc Anode. I had to purchase a separate screw and separate bracket and drill a hole through it so it would fit the Anode. As you can see the copper wire is bent around the screw that is part of the copper bracket. (I have the receipts and can easily send them to you, but in the electrical department with the pictures, you can easily find the parts.

Originally, buried in the soil and I have been digging up each year to inspect. You can tell that the anode is slowly degrading. I even called the Marine store and it is 100% Zinc (At least what I am told). This year, I took a 6" white PVC, dug a hole and cut a notch out and bent the copper wire up out of the ground. The white tube is sticking out of the ground slightly with dirt over it and a black cap. I can easily pour water in and around to keep it moist. Also, I did this as digging up the anode is nothing more than lifting out of the ground for inspection.

IMHO, this really works. Not any screws from the 6 returns, or the skimmer screws (which I can not see) or the 10 screws at the light niche show any signs of corrosion, tarnishing, etc. Remember that this happened after 1 year out of the blue, and I am underwater at least every few weeks inspecting everything. The pool company gave me replacement screws and both sets started showing signs of rust immediately. Hayward sent me new screws and also stated that I should install a Zinc Anode behind the light, but I opted for out of the pool (Chem Geek stated corrosion possibilities if there is too much zinc in the pool water) and done for this reason. If you need exact part #'s, I will be glad to provide receipts, etc.
 
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