SWG issues, not sure which one(s)

yrral_TX

Member
Jan 13, 2024
19
Austin TX
My is old, old: G1-011056-1 RevC
GLC 05813

last few months, been running high salt and didn't know it was that high.
4500 plus but unit said 2300ish and added salt... it raised to 3100ish and pool was fantastic for 2-3 months

There were electric surges, etc Electricity one day... off/on 3-4 times in a 24hr period...
THAT is when trouble started:

1) unit says salt low--- MY ISSUE, I didn't manually test :( YES I know now... manually is only way to go.
before I learned/got a test strip -- yes, I added salt :(
((because it worked the 2-3 months ago, I thought it would work again.))

anyway, test strip say 5000 ish, lets just call it too high.
I see everyone recommends the "good" salt test ((Taylor K-1766))... yes, will buy it soon.
LETS just know, my salt is too high, problem 1.

2) I see this on the diagnostics/readings/ what I see / what is happening:

readings:
1st one: salt display? (2.10) I've turned the circuit breakers off and started again (1.20)
==> this is a one problem? the start of my issues?

2nd: pool temp? (25-27)
==> yeah, not sure on that one.

3rd: voltage? (30.6 - 30.8)
==> NOTE: for a few seconds, it can/will be generating and this goes to 23.0 ish (moves around),
but after few seconds, after light says stops generating, it goes back to 30.8

4th: current (amps?) 0
==> NOTE: for a few seconds, if generating, it moves... sorry, don't write down the amounts, but after few secs, goes to 0

5th: desired output (controlled by remote unit inside) 70% for past few years

6th: instant salinity 0.0
==> never changes

7th: name: AL-0

8th: r 1.45

goes back to salt display


other notes:
a) the pool came with the house 22 years ago.
i've switch the t-cell 3 times? (SO Yeah, I get lots of years from the t-cell)? funny, i though that was normal.

b) the last time i cleaned the t-cell, it was the worst I've ever seen it. assuming that is from the high, high salt?
that was 2-3 months ago. I check it today and it seems fine/pretty clean. looks normal.

c) looking at the Thermistor
-- it seems to have a fine line/little crack around the edge...
-- i tried the clip trick, no help
==> assuming this needs replacing!! (as this is problem 2)

FYI. I replaced this some years ago... apparently, I can solder okay :)
I saw that one old one, it was cracked/fried a lot.

d) is there a problem 3???
those readings do not look good.

== my pool temp reading is not the pool, only the air.
long story short, after Texas winter, lines froze by heat pump and just removed (took heater OUT of line, as it didn't work anyway)
and the temp reading was not put back inline.


anything else I'm doing wrong... I've got no ego, but not wanting to just replace all the equipment,
but that seems an easier thing to do?
as 20 plus year old stuff tends to die, right?

I'm no MacGyver, but have been fixing looks of Crud around the house last few years.
It might not be perfect, but all seems fine... however, I don't know what I don't know.


however, the Pool was working great and water was excellent until 2 weeks ago when the electricity when off/on multiple times in a 5 hour period.

thanks for your help
 
Looks like you board reset itself to metric units. That is why your salt display and temperature are funky. Read Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

The wiki explains now to replace the thermistor.

Get yiu K-1766 and drain your pool to get salt down to below 4,000

Do those things and then come back here and tell us your diagnostic readings.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.