SWG-how long until it works?

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Yes, we have an Intex SWG. So, do we need to disconnect the copper ions on this model or just not worry about them?
My salt levels are around 3030 so this should be sufficient correct?
Should I just continue running it for 3 or 4 days at the 3 hour day recommendation and see if the chlorine levels start to hold?


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If you've added enough CYA to get to 60ish, your minimum FC needs to be 3. Use Pool Math to add enough bleach to get to 3 and try running the SWG for the 3 hour recommendation to see if it holds. Remember 3 is the minimum, you don't want to go below it or risk getting algae. You may have to adjust the timer on the SWG until you get it to hold.
 
Liviesmommy said:
I guess maybe I did it wrong then? The TF-100 test said to check for CC to add 5 drops of R-0003 to the clear solution and if it returns pink to add back R-0871 as before and then x that number by .5 again. It turned back to pink after one drop. 1x.5= .25 right?
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After running the FC test you add the full 5 drops of R-0003 to the clear solution and swirl to mix. If the solution returns to pink this indicates the presence of combined chlorines (CC's). You then add the R-0871, swirling between each drop, and count the number of drops it takes to return the solution to clear and multiply this number by .5 to get your CC level.
 
Okay, so after a week of trial and error, I think 5 hours seems to be the magic number to keep my chlorine levels up with the SWG. However, now my TA levels are really high and my ph is going up! The following were my test results from tonight:

FC- 3.5
CC- .5 (is this bad??)
PH- 7.8
TA- 190
CYA- 60 *I THINK* this test is hard for me...I am trying to figure out if I just mostly want the black dot to disappear or if I want it completely gone. I feel like I can barely see it, but if I look hard enough, I can still see the dang black dot..barley, but I still see it lol


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The CYA test is the hardest for most folks. Yes, you want the dot gone.

To reduce the pH you are going to use muratic acid. Here is the write up on muratic acid from Pool School:
To lower PH you can use either muriatic acid or dry acid. Muriatic acid is less expensive, though it can be annoying to handle. It is best to use muriatic acid if you have a SWG. If you don't have a SWG, and handling muriatic acid bothers you, you can use dry acid.

Muriatic acid is sold by most hardware stores and some paint stores. The big box hardware stores, like Home Depot and Lowes, almost always have it, but they seem to put it in different departments from store to store. Sometimes it is outside in the garden department, sometimes in pool supplies, and sometimes in the paint department.

Muriatic acid is available in various strengths. The most common strength is called either 20° baume or 31.45%. 10° baume or 15.725% is easier to handle but you need twice as much and it is usually more expensive.

You should always wear eye protection when handling muriatic acid. You do not want to breathe muriatic acid fumes. If you spill any on your clothes it will cause damage. Muriatic acid may sting a bit if you get it on your skin, but won't normally cause any serious harm as long as you rinse it off right away.

Muriatic acid should be added to the pool by pouring slowly in front of a return jet with the pump running. You should pour slowly enough that pouring an entire jug takes more than two minutes. Leave the pump running for at least 30 minutes after adding muriatic acid.
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This is how I add my acid: I like to get in front of a return on my hands & knees and splash a little water on the pool deck. Then open the acid bottle and partially submerge it in the water. Tilt the bottle to pour the acid in at close to water level, but don't let the bottle get submerged. I don't measure because it's an additional step for me to spill the stuff. Remove the bottle from the water and set it down in the puddle on the pool deck while you replace the cap. Try not to breathe the fumes.. Guess a little low on amount you need, then test again after it circulates well. You can always add more.

Ignore the TA for now, it will slowly come down each time you adjust the pH down.

.5 CC is OK. That just shows that the chlorine is sanitizing something organic in the water. Have folks been using the pool?
 
Okay, so I just bought a jug of muratic acid and I have to say, after reading the back of it...I'm feeling pretty uneasy about putting it in our pool!! :( This stuff looks scary...what if my kids drink some of the water in the pool?! It also says not to mix with chlorine bleach so I am confused. Did I get the wrong stuff?:(


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It is fine ... we all use it. Once it is in mixed in the water it is harmless.

You are just not supposed to mix the acid with chlorine directly ... which would give a nasty gas.
 
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