SWG help

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Have you had the salinity tested to see if it matches the reading. Around 2900?
If it does match, add a little and get that up as it is not working as well outside of the ideal.
Also while it is on, and running turn your test kit upside down and take water sample directly from the return.
If it is working it will show a much higher concentration of chlorine then the pool sample.
Quick check that it is generating. Your numbers say it is.
 
I cleaned the filter yesterday, and have another bag of salt so I'll add a bit more to up that, just don't want to add to much... Temps are "cold" for SoCal the next couple days so boarder line on the functionality of a properly working cell system.. Will update on chlorine tests as soon as I can..

thanx all
 
Been running the pump during the day and normal overnight... Water temp was 70 the other weekend.... Still no Chlorine. Considering the age of the cell, and still no chlorine, I think I'm going to replace it. I'm seeing T-15 cells ranging anywhere from $480.00 - $630.00.... Leslies told me a while back the new T-15 is more expensive cause it's supposed to be better and last longer... Does anybody have any thoughts on this?

Are the new ones better -> more $$??
 
Sky,

Just started looking at your post because I am considering a Hayward system even though I have a large pool. If you are on your 5th year with this cell with a pool that large, I think you did well. After market cells are all over the web...I saw one last night for $300 with a full 3 year warranty. Look around.

To your problem at hand; It seems to me that the folks here are correct and your unit is producing chlorine. The issue is that it is being consumed as fast as it is being produced. Please trust the people here on that. You need to learn and understand your chemistry, the relationship between CYA and Chlorine, and how to properly slam your pool. Turn the SWG off. Go to the SLAM section, do an over night FCL test, calculate home much bleach you will need, and go at it, might take all night....it sucks, but its the only way. I went through it two years ago and finally realized how everything is related.....no one in the pool store does, nor none of your neighbors. Last year my pool was crystal clear with the bleach method, never shocked it once, and lost between 1.0 - 1.5 ppm of FC each day, during 100 degree bright sunny days.

After you get your numbers right and the pool has stablized using bleach, go ahead and turn the SWG back on....
 
Take the cell to Leslie's and have them test it again. It it passes the cell is fine and there is no need to buy a new cell.

If it passes at Leslie's post the diagnostic readings and we will troubleshoot the pool. I'm leaning towards nascent algae being the cause of your problems from the previous posts. If you want to rule out nascent algae, raise the FC to 10ppm tonight and do an OCLT.

The longer lasting cells have a 4 year warranty from Leslie's and my guess is that the plating on the plates is thicker than the 3 year cells.
 
@ JoeRJGR

hanx for the "push" I have a tester at home - from Amazon..

- Taylor K-1515-A Drop Test Kit FAS-DPD Pool Chlorine .75oz 1 Drop = .2 or .5ppm..

Just have to figure out how to use it..:confused:

I honestly have to look at where the conditioner is at. I haven't, or at least had to, add any for quite some time.. But I have in the past.. Usually later in the summer though. I have basic understanding of the pool chemistry, but do need to learn more...

Also we do have A LOT of Vegetation around our pool... Which always has something in it..

Per your question below on the FC Level.. I generally keep it towards the low end... Honestly I don't remember off the top of my head... But towards the bottom...

Excited to get going..

- - - Updated - - -

@ JamesW

The Salt reading has been fairly accurate... I read somewhere else that when the cell is cleaned it's not a bad idea to switch the ends when re-installing. Any thoughts on good idea, bad, indifferent??
 

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Got water tested tonight at Leslies, also did it at home with 2 separate kits..

2017-05-05 does this sound right?
- Salt Current: 3100
- CYA Current: 60 - to get to 75 Add 208oz Liquid Conditioner
- PH: 7.4 (My test looked closer to 7.5 / 7.6) — Do I need to worry about adding more to get to 7.5.....Add 20oz of Ash

Then

- FC current: 3 to get to 30 add 2245oz or chlorine
 
Update from the weekend.. Pumps been running since Friday around 11:30PM.

- 2017-05-05
- Salt Current: 3100
- CYA Current: 60
- PH: 7.4 (My test looked closer to 7.5 / 7.6)
- Salt: 3100
- Added 1 gallon of Instant Conditioner

- 2017-05-06 — @ 1220
- CYA: 90

- 2017-05-06 — @ 1500
- Added 4 gallons of Chlorine

- 2017-05-06 -- 2226
- FC: 22

- 2017-05-07 -- 08:00
- FC: 17
- Added 2 more gallons

- 2017-05-07 -- 1245
- FC: 30

- 2017-05-07 -- 2026 After Sunset
- FC: 27.5

- 2017-05-08 -- 0545 Before Sunset
- FC: 30
- Salt on the controller reads 3100
 
ping said:
Take the cell to Leslie's and have them test it again. It it passes the cell is fine and there is no need to buy a new cell.

If it passes at Leslie's post the diagnostic readings and we will troubleshoot the pool. I'm leaning towards nascent algae being the cause of your problems from the previous posts. If you want to rule out nascent algae, raise the FC to 10ppm tonight and do an OCLT.

The longer lasting cells have a 4 year warranty from Leslie's and my guess is that the plating on the plates is thicker than the 3 year cells.
Click to expand...

3E1
*3E11339-200533* is the full SN on the cell sticker
 

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