I felt compelled to register and post to this board based on my experience.
Our pool is 14 years old and although I've replaced the T-cell about 3 times, we still have the original Goldline Controls controller panel. About a week ago I noticed that the pool water had a very slight green tint to it, we live in metro Phoenix area and over the years I've kept a sharp eye on our water chemistry and easily can do a visual and can tell if the salt system is not generating. This time though when I went to the panel, all I saw was the salt level display showing 3000 ppm, all indicator lights were off, and I knew i=I was facing a big bill (Pool Supply world shows a new Aqua Rite panel for $599). I was pretty resigned to the fact and facing the reality of this large bill and panel re-installation and felt that 14 years was a good stretch for this device, which the pool supply stores all say is way over life expectancy.
So even though it is towards the end of the season =, here in Chandler, AZ it's still at and over 100d F most days, and the pool is setup with the appropriate salt level and not ideal to start floating tablets based on total dissolved solids (and I wasn't going to purge my salt to accommodate tabs and then restart the pool). Long story short, I stumbled on a YouTube video where someone had identified the current limiter fix, without a lot of detail. That intrigued me because my son and I have rebuilt a Toyota Tacoma almost exclusively by board post findings, video's and advice and have built confidence to handle a lot of things within reason.
Then I found this post identifying the same fix referencing the same component and decided it is most certainly something I could do and gave it a try. Time was of the essence and I found the part (2-pack) on Amazon for $7 and I paid the $5 for same day delivery - this was yesterday / Saturday. I decided to clip the legs of the old part near the body of the limiter to use the old legs as "posts" for a glue job with solder. When I did the old limiter fell apart - o=it had been cracked and the only thing g=holding it together were the leads. I trimmed the new limiter's legs and put a 90d bend to allow for easier installation and more space between the PCB and the body of the limiter. So soldered it in place without removing the board, turned the power back on , and it came up normal and generating!
I have it on boost this morning to catch me back up to optimal chlorine level, but wanted to share this Success and thank you for this post. At this point we have appeared to save $600 plus effort to buy and reinstall the new panel by spending $12 in parts and same day shipping. I will update this post with any changes but for now we are very happy and hope this extends the life of the panel for a few more seasons.
Randy
Our pool is 14 years old and although I've replaced the T-cell about 3 times, we still have the original Goldline Controls controller panel. About a week ago I noticed that the pool water had a very slight green tint to it, we live in metro Phoenix area and over the years I've kept a sharp eye on our water chemistry and easily can do a visual and can tell if the salt system is not generating. This time though when I went to the panel, all I saw was the salt level display showing 3000 ppm, all indicator lights were off, and I knew i=I was facing a big bill (Pool Supply world shows a new Aqua Rite panel for $599). I was pretty resigned to the fact and facing the reality of this large bill and panel re-installation and felt that 14 years was a good stretch for this device, which the pool supply stores all say is way over life expectancy.
So even though it is towards the end of the season =, here in Chandler, AZ it's still at and over 100d F most days, and the pool is setup with the appropriate salt level and not ideal to start floating tablets based on total dissolved solids (and I wasn't going to purge my salt to accommodate tabs and then restart the pool). Long story short, I stumbled on a YouTube video where someone had identified the current limiter fix, without a lot of detail. That intrigued me because my son and I have rebuilt a Toyota Tacoma almost exclusively by board post findings, video's and advice and have built confidence to handle a lot of things within reason.
Then I found this post identifying the same fix referencing the same component and decided it is most certainly something I could do and gave it a try. Time was of the essence and I found the part (2-pack) on Amazon for $7 and I paid the $5 for same day delivery - this was yesterday / Saturday. I decided to clip the legs of the old part near the body of the limiter to use the old legs as "posts" for a glue job with solder. When I did the old limiter fell apart - o=it had been cracked and the only thing g=holding it together were the leads. I trimmed the new limiter's legs and put a 90d bend to allow for easier installation and more space between the PCB and the body of the limiter. So soldered it in place without removing the board, turned the power back on , and it came up normal and generating!
I have it on boost this morning to catch me back up to optimal chlorine level, but wanted to share this Success and thank you for this post. At this point we have appeared to save $600 plus effort to buy and reinstall the new panel by spending $12 in parts and same day shipping. I will update this post with any changes but for now we are very happy and hope this extends the life of the panel for a few more seasons.
Randy