SWG Cleaning Question

[Woody007]

iChlor 30 never has any white buildup on it. The blades are slightly tarnished looking, but that's it.
Is there any point in acid cleaning?
Most I read indicates acid cleaning takes some life out of the cell.
To be honest I haven't cleaned it in two seasons (~ 1600hrs) and the cell seems to be doing the job so looking for input.
My feeling is don't mess with.

 

[Newdude]

The blades are slightly tarnished looking, but that's it.
Is there any point in acid cleaning?

Nope. They're a dull metal color on their own.

Most I read indicates acid cleaning takes some life out of the cell.

It does and it's to be avoided unless there is noticeable buildup.

To be honest I haven't cleaned it in two seasons (~ 1600hrs) and the cell seems to be doing the job so looking for input.
My feeling is don't mess with

Most will never need to clean their cells when balanced to TFP specs. I didn't know better pre-TFP. My PB said to acid wash it full strength mid season and at the end of the season. I don't blame him for harming it, he did it to his own and swore by the results. The cell itself at the time even said right on the housing to acid wash it every 3 months. Who was I to know better ? Well, my cell spent 6.5 hours soaking in straight acid over its life and died about 4k hours early. Whattayagonnado? They've since updated the instructions printed on the cell to inspect and clean if necessary.

 

[Woody007]

Nope. They're a dull metal color on their own.

It does and it's to be avoided unless there is noticeable buildup.


Most will never need to clean their cells when balanced to TFP specs. I didn't know better pre-TFP. My PB said to acid wash it full strength mid season and at the end of the season. I don't blame him for harming it, he did it to his own and swore by the results. The cell itself at the time even said right on the housing to acid wash it every 3 months. Who was I to know better ? Well, my cell spent 6.5 hours soaking in straight acid over its life and died about 4k hours early. Whattayagonnado? They've since updated the instructions printed on the cell to inspect and clean if necessary.

Thanks for the information.
I couldn't recall if the blades were shiny or not, so good to know they are normal.
You made me feel better about not taking the cell out, because it's a pain. It's mounted right on top of the concrete pad and the unions are really hard to turn because of it. I think someone cut the PVC a little long when installing.
Any great tips on how to overcome this without cutting PVC? I'm thinking about a super thin sheet of cutting board plastic might let the nuts turn easier.

 

[Newdude]

Any great tips on how to overcome this without cutting PVC?

You need one of These just because. HD has several 16 inch channel locks with at least one brand about $20 also. No need to spend more, you'll rarely use them. Go gentle as they have tons of torque, but they'll likely raise the PVC just enough as you turn them in an upward direction them. Lube the gasket and union well for next time. Again, go gentle tightening, especially with lube. Hand tight only and then adjust a hair at a time if there's any drips. Too tight causes leaks and you think you're helping and you make it worse. Lol. Or too-too tight shatters the unions.


The best part about the pliers is using them as a threat to anything stubborn. 'You gonna make me go get Big Red ????? *thing comes apart on its own*. Ok. Thought so'

 

[wireform]

Any great tips on how to overcome this without cutting PVC? I'm thinking about a super thin sheet of cutting board plastic might let the nuts turn easier.

Pictures

 

[Woody007]

You need one of These just because. HD has several 16 inch channel locks with at least one brand about $20 also. No need to spend more, you'll rarely use them. Go gentle as they have tons of torque, but they'll likely raise the PVC just enough as you turn them in an upward direction them. Lube the gasket and union well for next time. Again, go gentle tightening, especially with lube. Hand tight only and then adjust a hair at a time if there's any drips. Too tight causes leaks and you think you're helping and you make it worse. Lol. Or too-too tight shatters the unions.


The best part about the pliers is using them as a threat to anything stubborn. 'You gonna make me go get Big Red ????? *thing comes apart on its own*. Ok. Thought so'

I have one of those, it's just so close to the concrete it's hard to get the threads started and then each turn is a battle.
There is nearly zero clearance. I think last time some work was done the tech let it rest on the ground as he glued in the check valve.

 

[Newdude]

Score a valley in the pad ? You wouldn't need much.

 

[Woody007]

Pictures

I have to lift up the pipe to even get the plastic cutting board under it. I suppose I could disconnect at the heater, but that's just another place to be a problem if I can avoid it.
Last spring, I put a shim under the elbow to raise it up a little.

 

[Newdude]

2 choices.

Cut little troughs for the unions to spin in, 3/4 inch deep is probably enough




Or get rid of the extender piece on the right side of the cell to make room for two 90s on the left side to raise it.

 

[Woody007]

2 choices.

Cut little troughs for the unions to spin in, 3/4 inch deep is probably enough

View attachment 528010


Or get rid of the extender piece on the right side of the cell to make room for two 90s on the left side to raise it.

View attachment 528011

Or maybe option 3 and grind off the nubs on the unions.

 

[Newdude]

Or maybe option 3 and grind off the nubs on the unions.

They are your grip, and there is a seam running perpendicular to the pipe. I wouldn't.

The nubs are support.