SWCG or Main Board

[NLandas]

Well, here we go.....heck, I'm afraid to ask but why not.....Unit reads Salt Too Low hence chlorinator off. Did my own salt test and it reads 3500 PPM. Independent testing 3600 PPM. So definitely there's salt. Ran diagnostics and here is what I got:
25.76V
+4.51A
91 degrees
1800 PPM
What could it be? Main board that is 15 going on 16 years old or salt cell that is going on it's 3rd year?
One or the other it'll cost me and I just hope not both.
I'm leaning towards the board and not to mention, I researched this board, Goldline Controls G1-066008J-1, may have been discontinued. I guess an upgraded one to replace it is a good thing. Maybe the remote puck will work again....
I've always wondered if I should just upgrade on a brand new panel that is fully automated and Bluetooth enabled.

Thoughts? Advices?

Thanks in advance.....

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[JamesW]

Also, check the cell for scaling and clean if necessary, but only if necessary.

 

[NLandas]

Also, check the cell for scaling and clean if necessary, but only if necessary.

JamesW,
Below are the response per your advise. Thanks Man!

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
Cell: 3E18002
Box SN: 5L0601-1032116
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Actual Salinity via Taylor Test Kit: 6600 PPM
Leslie's: 5700 PPM
What is the T-cell size?
Hayward T-Cell 15-SWP
Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
Yes
To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.
1st Polarity: 1800/6600 = 27%
2nd Polarity: 600/6600 = 9%

*****I guess I will be needing a new salt cell. Must have damaged the blades during the last cleaning (done it a thousand times). Not to mention I couldn't find any receipts for any warranty if it's still within 3 years. Oh well.

In the meantime, I'll still swim in it for the next 2 weeks. Just did the Taylor's Test this AM. pH is off so I placed some acid. Chlorine is 0 so I placed 2 gallons of 10%. I'll be doing some chlorine tabs for now. I'll be shutting it down here after 2 weeks.......

One question, should I leave the Salt level that high or should I drain half the pool and refill before shutting it down?

I wanna leave it if I could then drain and fill next season.

Thanks Folks...It was a FUN Summer

 

[JamesW]

Did my own salt test and it reads 3500 PPM. Independent testing 3600 PPM.

Actual Salinity via Taylor Test Kit: 6600 PPM
Leslie's: 5700 PPM

How did the salinity jump up so much?

Looks like a bad cell.

The cell was made on the 2nd day of 2018, so it is just over three years old.

If you had a receipt and the cell was bought less than 3 years ago, you could get a new cell.

Register the new cell when you get it to activate the warranty.

Don't acid clean the cell unless necessary.

 

[NLandas]

How did the salinity jump up so much?

Looks like a bad cell.

The cell was made on the 2nd day of 2018, so it is just over three years old.

If you had a receipt and the cell was bought less than 3 years ago, you could get a new cell.

Register the new cell when you get it to activate the warranty.

Don't acid clean the cell unless necessary.

How did the salinity jump up so much?
I had 6 bags from the neighbors when they left and sold their house. Stupid me thought that the cell was telling the "truth"......It didn't don on me after it was too late....
This will be my 4th cell since 2005......and this time I will not forget to register for warranty. Does it matter where the cell is bought from a warranty purpose?

Thanks Man! I really appreciate your help!

 

[JamesW]

Does it matter where the cell is bought from a warranty purpose?

As long as it's a legitimate seller, it should be fine.

The cell looks like it was in an oven.

Does it get hot where you are?

 

[NLandas]

As long as it's a legitimate seller, it should be fine.

The cell looks like it was in an oven.

Does it get hot where you are?

Does it get hot where you are?
OH heck YES!!!! I'm in Phoenix, AZ!!!! The pool equipment actually has overlapping sunshades over it.....The pool is 22K gallons and the water is WARM and last year it was hotter......Swimming at 10 PM and sweating!