Hi all,
First, thanks to this community. This is my first post, but I've learned a lot reading many of the threads. And now, I will post to ask for some advice. First I'm sure you'll want to know these numbers (all from the Taylor series of test kits):
recently FC: 4-8 ppm range, CC < 0.5 ppm, pH 7.4, TA 70, CYA 40-50 ppm, CH 400 ppm, phosphates 100 ppb
We've had an inground fiberglas pool for about a year. It was built by a fantastic local builder, and I couldn't be happier with it. The builder started me off on the EZ-Pool + cal-hypo tablets for the skimmer. After about 1-2 months of the EZ-Pool program, I elected to stop. EZ-Pool is proprietary and the only thing I knew was in it was copper, which imparted a slight green tint to my daughter's hair. (And most the chemistry labs I spent time in tended to label the contents of containers.) I was able to easily maintain sparkling water with just 1 cal-hypo tablet every 3-4 days and a little dry acid every couple weeks to keep the pH down. I assumed I had no need for EZ-Pool anymore.
Fast forward to this season. For a variety of reasons I elected to open early: mid-March. My strategy for this year was to use liquid chlorine rather than cal-hypo tablets to avoid build up calcium and also allow chemical dosage quickly rather than having to run the pump to get chlorine into the water.
I carefully read the SLAM procedure and followed it, more than once actually. Each time resulted in sparkling clear water and I was able to pass the overnight loss test many nights in a row. I should note that I'm have an opaque safety cover that stays on most the of time. (We have no fence.) So I was "SLAMing" under the cover. Some days after each SLAM the pool water slowly begins to grow cloudy, and then just doesn't clear up. With the cover on FC consumption in a day is less than 1 ppm so I think that suggests there is nothing organic growing there. During the SLAM the entire pool spent over a week with FC well above 10 ppm. I should add that "cloudy" is not milky. I can still see the texture on the fiberglas at the shallow end, but there is a strong halo on the light at night and things like the brush look hazy at the bottom of the deep end.
So, I'm trying to figure out how I went from easy sparkling water last year to fighting haze this year. Here are some things that are different.
1) liquid chlorine (10% sodium hypochlorite "pool shock") instead of cal-hypo tablets and I added CYA -- I was using almost none last year
2) I started running a Dolphin S200 (love it, BTW) instead of vacuuming. For a month my sand filter showed no increase in back pressure (17 psi) and no need to back wash. I thought maybe filter efficiency was the problem with the cloudy water, so I added some DE to the filter this week to get 1 psi raise (18 psi). I also vacuumed with the hose the last two days and this has generated another 2 psi increase (20 psi) today. Maybe the filter will be more efficient now.
3) No EZ-Pool -- surely there was some residual copper in the pool last year that was acting as an algaecide. I have done a few water changes at the 10% level to keep CH levels down, each of those will dilute the copper.
4) I've started experimenting with cycling the pump off and on. Last year I ran the pump 24/7 but it uses as much or more electricity than our entire household. I built a WiFi remote control box this year with time delay relays, etc, to manage the shutdown cycle: heater off first and then pump 5 minutes later after the heat exchanger cools. This has let me easily explore cycling the pump (as well as enabling a number of other conveniences). After I SLAMed and got the water clear, I tried running 50% of the time: 4 hours on and 4 hours off. At the first hint of cloudiness, I started running all the time. And I ran 24/7 during the SLAM. I've been running 24/7 for the last week with still slightly cloudy water.
5) Up to now, lots of time with the cover closed - no sun on the pool. The pool days are spaced with many cool breezy days with lots of tree junk falling from the sky.
Any ideas on the source of the cloudy water?
Also what is typical FC consumption in the sunlight for CYA in the target range? It was a fairly sunny day yesterday and had the pool open all day. It gets direct sun for maybe 6 hours and I think FC loss for the entire day was in the neighborhood of 5 ppm (attempting to account for my addition of chlorine in the afternoon).
Thanks for your help!
Matt
First, thanks to this community. This is my first post, but I've learned a lot reading many of the threads. And now, I will post to ask for some advice. First I'm sure you'll want to know these numbers (all from the Taylor series of test kits):
recently FC: 4-8 ppm range, CC < 0.5 ppm, pH 7.4, TA 70, CYA 40-50 ppm, CH 400 ppm, phosphates 100 ppb
We've had an inground fiberglas pool for about a year. It was built by a fantastic local builder, and I couldn't be happier with it. The builder started me off on the EZ-Pool + cal-hypo tablets for the skimmer. After about 1-2 months of the EZ-Pool program, I elected to stop. EZ-Pool is proprietary and the only thing I knew was in it was copper, which imparted a slight green tint to my daughter's hair. (And most the chemistry labs I spent time in tended to label the contents of containers.) I was able to easily maintain sparkling water with just 1 cal-hypo tablet every 3-4 days and a little dry acid every couple weeks to keep the pH down. I assumed I had no need for EZ-Pool anymore.
Fast forward to this season. For a variety of reasons I elected to open early: mid-March. My strategy for this year was to use liquid chlorine rather than cal-hypo tablets to avoid build up calcium and also allow chemical dosage quickly rather than having to run the pump to get chlorine into the water.
I carefully read the SLAM procedure and followed it, more than once actually. Each time resulted in sparkling clear water and I was able to pass the overnight loss test many nights in a row. I should note that I'm have an opaque safety cover that stays on most the of time. (We have no fence.) So I was "SLAMing" under the cover. Some days after each SLAM the pool water slowly begins to grow cloudy, and then just doesn't clear up. With the cover on FC consumption in a day is less than 1 ppm so I think that suggests there is nothing organic growing there. During the SLAM the entire pool spent over a week with FC well above 10 ppm. I should add that "cloudy" is not milky. I can still see the texture on the fiberglas at the shallow end, but there is a strong halo on the light at night and things like the brush look hazy at the bottom of the deep end.
So, I'm trying to figure out how I went from easy sparkling water last year to fighting haze this year. Here are some things that are different.
1) liquid chlorine (10% sodium hypochlorite "pool shock") instead of cal-hypo tablets and I added CYA -- I was using almost none last year
2) I started running a Dolphin S200 (love it, BTW) instead of vacuuming. For a month my sand filter showed no increase in back pressure (17 psi) and no need to back wash. I thought maybe filter efficiency was the problem with the cloudy water, so I added some DE to the filter this week to get 1 psi raise (18 psi). I also vacuumed with the hose the last two days and this has generated another 2 psi increase (20 psi) today. Maybe the filter will be more efficient now.
3) No EZ-Pool -- surely there was some residual copper in the pool last year that was acting as an algaecide. I have done a few water changes at the 10% level to keep CH levels down, each of those will dilute the copper.
4) I've started experimenting with cycling the pump off and on. Last year I ran the pump 24/7 but it uses as much or more electricity than our entire household. I built a WiFi remote control box this year with time delay relays, etc, to manage the shutdown cycle: heater off first and then pump 5 minutes later after the heat exchanger cools. This has let me easily explore cycling the pump (as well as enabling a number of other conveniences). After I SLAMed and got the water clear, I tried running 50% of the time: 4 hours on and 4 hours off. At the first hint of cloudiness, I started running all the time. And I ran 24/7 during the SLAM. I've been running 24/7 for the last week with still slightly cloudy water.
5) Up to now, lots of time with the cover closed - no sun on the pool. The pool days are spaced with many cool breezy days with lots of tree junk falling from the sky.
Any ideas on the source of the cloudy water?
Also what is typical FC consumption in the sunlight for CYA in the target range? It was a fairly sunny day yesterday and had the pool open all day. It gets direct sun for maybe 6 hours and I think FC loss for the entire day was in the neighborhood of 5 ppm (attempting to account for my addition of chlorine in the afternoon).
Thanks for your help!
Matt