When my pool service closed my inground pool, they were unable to remove 8 of the loop-loc anchors in my concrete deck. Some of the bolts are stripped so they couldn't get them to budge when they attempted to loosen them from the concrete deck, and some of them just wouldn't budge because the person who closed the pool tightened them too much when the cover was removed this Spring. Is there anything that I can spray on the ones that won't budge to make them easier to remove? Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the anchors that appear to be stripped so I can put another anchor in the hole that will work appropriately? I'd also like to know what tool to use to remove them since I don't want to have to pay my pool professional to come back out here. There are 8 anchors that are currently stuck so I'd like to get this fixed if possible.
stuck loop-loc cover anchors
- Thread starter nadar
- Start date
A few of mine were stuck, I used Blaster Penetrating oil
If you have to remove the whole unit due to they are stripped
loop-loc cover anchors - Google Search
If you have to remove the whole unit due to they are stripped
loop-loc cover anchors - Google Search
Nadar:
While I do not have a safety cover, if I did, each year I would use a lubricant to keep things lubricated. Although, my friend has the same issue and was considering this. Not sure how effective, but the videos are fun to watch.
Deck Anchor Removal Tool CALL TODD TODAY 417-825-6969 - YouTube
Safety Cover Anchor Removal Tool-Anchor Yanker - YouTube
While I do not have a safety cover, if I did, each year I would use a lubricant to keep things lubricated. Although, my friend has the same issue and was considering this. Not sure how effective, but the videos are fun to watch.
Deck Anchor Removal Tool CALL TODD TODAY 417-825-6969 - YouTube
Safety Cover Anchor Removal Tool-Anchor Yanker - YouTube
If an insert will move at all, you can get it out. Just put some water on the screw and work it in by moving the screw back and forth until the water loosens the dirt. Be patient and keep adding water to flush out the grit and it will come out.
To remove an anchor, first lightly score around the anchor to reduce contact with the deck.
Then, drill and tap the center hole with a 5/16-18 tap. The drill bit and tap comes as a set. Drill bit size 17/64".
Then place a metal tube over the anchor. A 3/4" copper coupling should fit the scored area around the anchor. The metal tube should have an inside diameter just slightly larger than an anchor.
Then, screw in a long 5/16-18 bolt with 2 big washers and a coupling nut above the washers. The bolt will need to be about 6 to 8 inches long to accommodate the anchor, coupling and coupling nut.
Then, hold the bolt and tighten the coupling nut to pull the anchor.
Scoring around the anchor a little bit and having the copper coupling sit in the scored area should reduce the risk of surface damage, but pulling an anchor always risks damaging the deck.
If you use a 3/4" hole saw to drill the top part of the anchor, that will remove the ridges around the top of the anchor, which will reduce the risk of surface damage.
To keep the hole saw steady without wobbling, you can first drill a hole in a piece of wood and then put that hole over the anchor then drill through the hole.
The hole for the anchor is 3/4", but the top ridges are slightly larger. So, when the anchor is hammered in, the ridges dig in and get compressed, which holds the anchor in place.
To remove an anchor, first lightly score around the anchor to reduce contact with the deck.
Then, drill and tap the center hole with a 5/16-18 tap. The drill bit and tap comes as a set. Drill bit size 17/64".
Then place a metal tube over the anchor. A 3/4" copper coupling should fit the scored area around the anchor. The metal tube should have an inside diameter just slightly larger than an anchor.
Then, screw in a long 5/16-18 bolt with 2 big washers and a coupling nut above the washers. The bolt will need to be about 6 to 8 inches long to accommodate the anchor, coupling and coupling nut.
Then, hold the bolt and tighten the coupling nut to pull the anchor.
Scoring around the anchor a little bit and having the copper coupling sit in the scored area should reduce the risk of surface damage, but pulling an anchor always risks damaging the deck.
If you use a 3/4" hole saw to drill the top part of the anchor, that will remove the ridges around the top of the anchor, which will reduce the risk of surface damage.
To keep the hole saw steady without wobbling, you can first drill a hole in a piece of wood and then put that hole over the anchor then drill through the hole.
The hole for the anchor is 3/4", but the top ridges are slightly larger. So, when the anchor is hammered in, the ridges dig in and get compressed, which holds the anchor in place.
When I went to install my safety cover I had several stuck or frozen anchors. I used a regular long allen key. I inserted the short side of the allen key into the anchor and then I used the long handle of the install-removal tool to go over the long side of the allen key. This gave me more torque to unstick the frozen anchor. Worked like a charm.