You need to get your own geotechnical engineer to evaluate and advise.
Structural crack help
- Thread starter Jaypeesi
- Start date
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,869
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Agree (though I still think you need to first ask the PB to pay for that). You should be using the structural angle with the PB, not the cosmetic angle. The PB (or you) need to prove definitively what is the cause of the crack and what needs to be the fix. You two can hash out what the finish should look like once that is done.
I'm not saying this is their tactic, we want to give the PB the benefit of the doubt. But regardless of the motive, them asking you to wait until Spring to reevaluate the repair is exactly what I warned you about. If they get past the statute of limitations, and/or the warranty period, with cosmetic-only repairs, then they could be free and clear of the structural repairs.
I think @JamesW would back up this theory: a five foot crack doesn't just happen in a 2-1/2 year old pebble finish without some underlying structural failure/defect. And so far the PB has only applied the fix for the pebble. Which is the reason I planted the seed of suspicion about the PB's behavior, and offered the tips about the evidence gathering, because he should (and very likely does) know that perfectly well. Unless you press, he'll continue to do the least possible, for as long as possible, hoping the problem won't get any worse while he is liable for it.
Again, this is based on what I just learned during my recent bout: if the crack revealed itself after the PB's warranty expired, but before 10 years from the date of the final inspection, that would be considered a latent defect, because the structural defect was hidden from your view. The PB would be liable for the fix. But because the crack has shown up now, in plain sight, you might not get 10 years to wait to see how bad it's going to get. It might be as little as three (I'm not certain of the deadline, that's what lawyers are for).
This popped up in a google search. It's pretty old, and the law might have changed. But read this and you'll understand why I'm hounding you to find out about the timing:
California Law: New Statute of Limitations for Residential Construction Defects (§§ 896, 941) | Long & Levit LLP
Senate Bill 800 (effective January 1, 2003); Civil Code §§ 43.99, 895-945.5 This is the third in a continuing series of Design Professionals’ Practice Updates about Senate Bill 800 (SB800) and its potential impact on the design and construction industry. Senate Bill 800 changed the statute of...
Be sure to get to the last section: "Application of the Statutes." The very last sentence of the article is arguably the most important.
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Based on the description of the cracks, it seems likely that there is probably a structural crack in the gunite.
If you can show pictures of the cracks, that would help us understand and advise.
Only a geotechnical engineer can determine the likelihood of further cracking.
If support is needed, it's important to get it done before the pool sinks and becomes out of level.
You need to carefully document the exact level of the pool immediately and periodically to detect any movement.
At a minimum, go around on a calm day and take picture of the water line against the tile to see where it hits now and later.
Perhaps even hire a crew to do an elevation study to document what you have now and that way you have a reference to compare against later.
If you can show pictures of the cracks, that would help us understand and advise.
Only a geotechnical engineer can determine the likelihood of further cracking.
If support is needed, it's important to get it done before the pool sinks and becomes out of level.
You need to carefully document the exact level of the pool immediately and periodically to detect any movement.
At a minimum, go around on a calm day and take picture of the water line against the tile to see where it hits now and later.
Perhaps even hire a crew to do an elevation study to document what you have now and that way you have a reference to compare against later.
Last edited:
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,869
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
In the OP's first post, he describes the pool losing 4' or water in five days once he stopped refilling the pool. I would think that pretty much confirms there is a crack in the gunite. No?
It pretty much has to be a cracked gunite shell. Probably due to settling.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
I vote up pressing the builder on this and making a point of it being a structural issue not cosmetic. I would want to get to the underlying reason why it cracked, putting more plaster on it and saying call me in the spring is not addressing the issue.
JamesW is right, either the gunite shell is cracked or the pipes have been undermine. The only way that happens is if there is shifting in the pool shell.
So now that they patched it does it still leak? have you tried the bucket test? turn off your autofill and see if the pool level goes down faster than the evaporation out of a bucket.
JamesW is right, either the gunite shell is cracked or the pipes have been undermine. The only way that happens is if there is shifting in the pool shell.
So now that they patched it does it still leak? have you tried the bucket test? turn off your autofill and see if the pool level goes down faster than the evaporation out of a bucket.